Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
05/05/2023 - Reports of the kestrel returning to nest have been received. Until this is fully verified, please refrain from climbing the routes 'Mouse Trap', 'Owl and the Antelope', and 'On Jupiter and Mars'
25/05/2022 - We have now confirmed that there is a kestrel nest halfway up the "Owl and the Antelope". Please refrain from climbing routes in this area from April 15th - July 31st to allow the birds to care for their young.
BMC have been advised that Barn Owls could be nesting at this crag. If so these birds have special protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act. Avoid climbing the routes on the Left Hand Retaining wall "Left Over" to "Half man-Half Machine" inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The hardest climbing is on the upper slab and is bolted. Start up a small corner and then climb (no bolts) to a line of bolts on the upper slab that are followed rightwards to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A route between 'Save A Mouse, Eat A Pussy' and 'The Owl and The Antelope' not in the 2004 guide. Use the (usually water filled) borehole to get onto the slab at this grade. If dry, and a long extender is already in place, you may wish to do a direct without using the borehole - tougher.
G Lewis, P.Jones 15/Aug/1992.
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Erection Fever
Grade: E3 6b ***
(Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar))