Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
The hanging groove, with some fine and unusual moves to gain entry to it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A classic. To the right is a prominent sharp-cut square groove at 11m. Gain this directly and climb it with difficulty to make an awkward move onto the upper slab. Finish directly over the upper slab. Have upgraded to Fr6c+, following the overwhelming voting in this direction.
Roy Thomas, Gary Gibson 08/May/1994.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Rock
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Goose In Lucy
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Foxhole)