Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
Start up Sport Wars and then make a hideous contorted entry into the bottomless groove - above things relent only slightly. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The bottomless, holdless, groove is entered with extreme difficulty. Bridge up until a good hold allows access to the arete. Climb this to a ledge, then swing right above the bottomless groove, with a final awkward move up to the chain.
Martin Crocker, Roy Thomas 06/Mar/1988.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Rock
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Harlem
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Dinas Rock)