Rockfax Description
Two testing crack pitches - one wide and one thin. Start down and right from The Dress Circle below a stepped crack-line.
1) 5a, 23m. Move up right into the crack and follow it to good ledges. Belay below a thin crack in the smooth upper wall.
2) 5b, 40m. Take the thin crack to small ledges, then move up leftwards to below a bulge with a flared groove above it. Climb up into the groove and follow it to a belay on the ridge. Finish up Eagle Nest Ridge Ordinary. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent climb taking a direct line up the buttress facing across the gully towards Napes Needle. Start at the bottom of the large subsidiary buttress below the right hand end of the Dress Circle.
1.) 25m (5a), the buttress is split by a corner crack. Enter this from the left using a small rib, and climb the corner past two bulges to a slab. Climb up to grass ledges and the top of the pinnacle.
2.) 35m (5b), the wall above is split by a prominent thin crack. Climb the crack to a small ledge, then move up and left to the foot of an obvious groove in the wall above. Enter this and climb it to a junction with the upper section of Eagle's Nest Ridge. (This pitch can be split at the top of the thin crack at 15m).

P. Long, T.Parker Jun/1987.

Feedback Always Hide βeta