Rockfax Description
Steep climbing in great positions on Il Duce's right arete. The climbing becomes easier but the rock deteriorates in quality as height is gained. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seaward below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 10m. Traverse left and take a belay on a protruding ledge.
2) 5c, 40m. Climb straight up to a small ledge at 7m using positive holds but with minimal gear. Move diagonally left to the arete and ascend it to a narrow ledge. Move rightwards along the ledge (possible belay) then diagonally back left to the arete again. Follow this to a short steep crack on the right which leads to a belay in a niche.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb steeply on good holds to the right then move back left towards the arete and continue up to reach an easy traverse-line (junction with Il Duce). Follow this rightwards to a fault-line that leads up to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Mark Kemball 17/Feb/04 2nd

This felt extremely serious - a fall by the leader on pitch 3 could easily result in belay failure and death in the foaming Atlantic below. It is given E3 in the guide but I would have no quarrel with XS or E5.

with Stu Bradbury
duncan 25/Aug/97 AltLd rpt
duncan ?/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
clark alston ?/Jul/94 AltLd O/S

Spectacular but serious.

with Dave Henderson
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