Rockfax Description
A legendary Cornish classic that traces an exposed line across the blankest section of Bosigran's Main Face. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 25m. Follow the weakness to a belay under the Coal Face.
2) 4b, 14m. Move up the corner right of the Coal Face to the start of a thin diagonal crack that runs up left across the Coal Face. Climb the crack to a large block on the arete and belay - the Pedestal stance.
3) 5a, 15m. Follow flakes leftwards across the wall above the Pedestal and move up to a wide break and good cams. Traverse the break left a short way until it is possible to gain a small ledge and belay below a smooth groove.
4) 5c, 9m. Some very hard but well-protected moves start the groove which then eases just before a belay ledge is reached a short distance above.
5) 4b, 15m. Move up the leaning corner above the belay for a few metres before swinging rightwards on good holds out of the corner to easier climbing and the top. Climbing the leaning corner directly is the strenuous top pitch of Paragon 5a. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Kernow, West Country Climbs, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Extreme 2018, Adventure ticklist 2018.

R0BJ0N 31/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Pete Mack
Lawcallum 06/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
MoWalker3 25/Sep/17 AltLd

Did top pitch of Paragon as it seemed more in keeping with the line (& we got lost)

with Doc
garygecko 25/Sep/17 -

Led the coal face P2. Failed on the hvs. 5a. Final pitch. Mo led everything else with grit!

with Mo
James-m-h 19/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 3, all very polished not really sure why top 5- but a good route never the less

with joedean
Tom Hill 18/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Cbulman 18/Sep/17 AltLd RP
David Staples 12/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Rory Bascombe 06/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch, surprisingly tough up at the very top I thought

with Tom Newberry
Simon Allcock 21/Aug/17 AltLd dnf

i lead p1 and p3. we got shut down by hard start to p4 with polished footholds and potential for hitting ledge. need to man-up

with Wilki
ollie1 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
LDJ 18/Aug/17 AltLd

Led pitches 2 & 4

with Ollie
Fragmod 08/Aug/17 Lead
Ben1983 08/Aug/17 AltLd O/S


bryan61 27/Jul/17 AltLd rpt
with sally
Hidden 27/Jul/17 AltLd
jhobbs 13/Jul/17 2nd
with Pete Belfield
leerybunny 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Steve G and Nikki

The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 04/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Aided 5c move. Sweaty.

with Rebecca
Hidden 27/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
perrys 19/Jun/17 AltLd dog

Had to rest on the gear on the crux of P4. Would have gone if I hadn't hung around trying to get that cam in!

with Tom Powell
Quarryboy 19/Jun/17 AltLd dnf

Elias was pretty psyched for this although I suspected it would be kind of hard and scary and the temperature was like 30 degrees C. Did the first two pitches quickly while the route was still in she shade and got devoured by insects. Third pitch felt quite scary and the sun had hit by that point which just made the whole thing feel more intense, nearly fell onto the belay ledge but was somehow ok, Elias did then fall trying to get onto the belay ledge and was not able to climb back up to me. After considering the situation for a little while decided to lower him down and abb off the pegs which was a bit sketch but exciting, beach all round afterwards though!

with Elias Khoury
kenhansard 18/Jun/17 AltLd

Frigged 5c pitch

with simibrown, Dr Dave, Rich bull
beni 18/Jun/17 AltLd
with aiyer
aiyer 18/Jun/17 AltLd dog

No send on the crux pitch!

with Beni
simibrown 17/Jun/17 AltLd
with ken, Rich
chrismadar 16/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Lead all 5 pitches, finished up Paragon because it seemed like an obvious line. The crux pitch was nails and had to down climb and start again after my finger opened up. 3rd pitch isn't a giveaway, I'm glad I followed the guidebook advice and took some larger cams. 2nd and 3rd are the best pitches by far.

with Laurence Champ
m.powell02 11/Jun/17 AltLd rpt

Lead P1 and top pitch of Paragon.

Hidden 11/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Jack Porteous 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
ClimbingAlex 03/Jun/17 AltLd dog

Led traverse & crux pitch together to avoid the FF2 on the belay. Traverse is pumpy but good. Small wires and a small silver cam protect the start of the crux. Just as well because I misread the sequence on the crux, hung around for long, got gripped couldn't stick the good holds above. Took a big fall to 3m below the ledge. Climbed back up the to the ledge and got it second time. Annoyed not to get it onsight but pleased to get to the top!! Hard!

Lenny 21/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Michał Czech
mcgovern 19/May/17 2nd

amazing and hard

with pete
Dave Almond 14/May/17 AltLd O/S

Bmc International meet

with Maria Soltesova
m.powell02 08/May/17 Lead O/S

Did it first thing in the morning - practically all the climbing was greasy/wet which made for some intimidating climbing!

with Gemma
gem_stone12 08/May/17 2nd O/S
with Matty P
manbat 08/May/17 AltLd O/S

Glad to get this done, it has a reputation, and I backed off it last year when it was very wet. Luke led the coalface, I led the traverse. Actually surprised to find it has adequate gear, and is not hard, save for the heinous mantel move. Luke led the remainder (via Paragon) in one. 5c pitch is tricky, but not too bad.

with Luke Randall
Hidden 28/Apr/17 AltLd
Kenhard 28/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Cal led first half of pitch 1, I led second half of pitch 1 up the coal face to the pedestal. Clarke led the traverse, mantle and boulder crux of pitch 2. Cal led the last pitch. Mantle was super tough, traverse was bold, and boulder sequence was strenuous!

with Clarke Boulter, Callum law
kennythescot 21/Apr/17 AltLd RP
with Rich Mackie
Senna 17/Apr/17 AltLd β

Led pitches 3 and 4 together

mariannekhoo 17/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Led all pitches until the 5c crux and backed off after several attempts. Traverse is easy. 5c crux is very tough if you're small and don't have the reach for the slightly better holds higher up the crack, with serious risk of hitting the ledge if you come off.

with Zoë
ned_85 15/Apr/17 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
Hidden 14/Apr/17 AltLd
Jess Carr 10/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

I had the crux pitches!!!

with Rich Pollard
JendeHoxar 16/Feb/17 AltLd rpt
with Flavio
Flavio 16/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
joedean ??/2017 -
Hidden 14/Nov/16 AltLd
Hidden 14/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
alanblyth 29/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led scramble and black slab as one pitch.

JendeHoxar 29/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

I led p2 and 3

with Alan
steve-grigg 08/Oct/16 AltLd G/U

Fell off the crux first time. Made up up clean in the end though!

myrddinmuse 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3 & 5. First pitch is garbage, but the rest is great. Caught Steve's fall onto the at the start of p4 after his gear popped, which was a bit of a scary moment, but onsighted the crux. Chose to tackle the final pitch of paragon (5a) instead of the 4b finish. Found it hard and the hand jam lost me the use of my hand for 10 mins.. All in all, great adventure! Most serious route yet by far, I think.

WillDoyle ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/16 2nd
Jmpollard 12/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Hamish led the first two pitches, I led the traverse and groove. Traverse was great, good moves and okay gear, groove was very hard. Was gonna do it in one pitch but brought Hamish over so if I was struggling we could resort to combined tactics. Finally committed and made the move up with a bit of a move left, then ended up on the top pitch of paragon which brought back some memories!

Alex Whitmore 27/Aug/16 AltLd dog

Seconded Pitch 1, 3 and 4. Pitch two an interesting slab. Not mentally strong enough to attempt to lead pitch 4 so Hutch aided up and I followed. Lead final pitch of Paragon (5a). Got scared but pulled through. Ace

Mark D 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Oli Jeffs
georgeevans88 05/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Even better than I was expecting. A real adventure route. Every pitch different. Thought there was no chance I would get up the 5c pitch but managed it after closely watching John's sequence.

Anna Maykova 05/Aug/16 AltLd
with Ian
Ian MK 05/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead the traverse and the crux pitches as one as recommended in the CC Guide

with Anna
M_Robinson 03/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Backed off before P3 due to rain

with Ella Watkinson
ellawatkinson 03/Aug/16 AltLd dnf

Backed off before P3 because rain came in

with Michael Robinson
Hidden 29/Jul/16 2nd O/S
brianhall16 22/Jul/16 Lead G/U

Had to redpoint the 5c corner pitch. Brilliant!

with Helen Wallace
Hidden 16/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Scott Quinn 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

2 pitches awesome climb lead p1+2 the 5c crux was hard finished via paragon

Tom.Priestley 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

In 2 pitches. Led P 3+4+5 (paragon variation) together. Entered the ledge at the end of P3 backwards?! Cool route but 5c crux is mean at E1.

mattwyles1 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Epic. Joe did the hard stuff (thank god).

with Joe
Tom McCabe 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Memorable climb. Led the scramble and 5a traverse. Shared the Pedestal with Ky and Rowan going up Ghost. Shuffled onto the P3 stance leg first and backwards. Belay pegs are worrying but there's plenty of gear at ledge level, and a few RPs by the pegs. Joe did the crux and finished up Paragon - what's the point of 10m pitches?

JRJones 18/Jun/16 AltLd

Chose high runners over holds off the belay below the crux, made it a little more interesting. Finish up Paragon must have given some people a very unpleasant initiation to jamming

Joe Costello 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

On reflection perhaps only going trad climbing 2 or 3 times a year doesn't really prepare you for this! I didn't believe in any of the pegs and if you think these will probably fail then this route suddenly becomes 10X more serious, not just the crux.

8PetrieC 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Awesome climb. Very glad I was seconding.

with Andrei Markin
amccann 13/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Shaun led the approach pitch, I put the 2nd and 3rd together into one, then he decided he wasn't keen for the crux pitch so gave it to me too, ended up running the crux into the top pitch too.

with Shaun H
Tom Seccombe 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
OliverRoss 10/Jun/16 AltLd O/S


with David Jung
Hidden 10/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
wilkinscl 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

fell off the first foothold on the 5c pitch several times, hard but steady once past this.

with Ned
Hidden ?/Jun/16 AltLd RP
matt1024 28/May/16 AltLd RP

Tom very capably led traverse, got the 5c pitch clean after a couple of goes. Great route.

Francis Hardy 28/May/16 AltLd

Did as three pitches, stringing the traverse and the crux together. I led the coal face and the final pitch (the swing out on the final pitch seemed overgrown and improbable so finished up the 5a corner of Paragon which seamed more in keeping with the rest of the route and was good fun). Was a stunning climb, managed to flash the crux on second so will have to come back again to lead it!

Hidden 28/May/16 AltLd β
Hidden 28/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 13/May/16 2nd rpt
tcn_2002 30/Apr/16 AltLd
TimCul 30/Apr/16 Lead
onlyfoddington 30/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

I lead the 4b and 5c pitch. Everything was tricky where I remembered it, though th3 5c bit was tough, and involved some commitment issues. Perhaps went a touch left after the initial couple of moves.

with Tom C
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
waydan 23/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, very polished.

cdpuk 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Did the traverse and crux

SimonOliver 25/Mar/16 2nd
bigbobbyking 25/Mar/16 AltLd

Chris took the crux pitch in one long pitch

with Chris Peka
Hugobristol 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Great, although greasy. Gaining the belay ledge on the third pitch had my favourite move ive done on trad gear. Topped out direct, with difficulty.

with Eleanor, Anya
EC 12/Mar/16 -
with Hugo, Anya
Hidden ??/2016 -
andy28th ??/2016 Lead O/S
andy28th ??/2016 Lead O/S
jack morris 94 ??/2016 -
Hidden 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
omaskrey 22/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Really great lead by Jake. I found the 3rd pitch particularly difficult.

with CUC climbing club
jonleighton 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/15 AltLd
ChrisBrooke 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led Coal Face pitch and crux pitch to the top, using the direct Paragon finish (awkward). Really enjoyable route. The climbing on the coal face is great but feels more serious than the grade suggests. The traverse was lovely climbing with an awkward mantle at the end. The crux was hard and a bit committing, even with the protection you'd probably hit the ledge if you muffed it. A lot of fun and a lovely varied route though.

with Duncan Bell
JoeCoxson 29/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead all but the 2nd pitch. Made a pig's ear of a couple of sections, some very ungraceful moments, but didn't fanny around for two long working out the crux. Another very memorable Bosi tick.

Wendy Watthews 29/Jul/15 AltLd

Joe lead all the meaty pitches with minimal disco leg, I lead the coal face

with joe c
robgixer 17/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
lukegorman 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with beni
Hidden 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
beni 27/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
GwilymR 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/15 AltLd dnf
nickb1 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
foostu4 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Linked pitches 2+3 made it a bit scary! P4 quite tricky!

Liam Ingram 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Rachel S 29/May/15 AltLd dog
with Cal
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd rpt
ian d f 23/May/15 AltLd rpt

Climbed in 3 pitches with the two harder pitches together. Probably a bad way to do it, as you are more likely to hit the ledge on the crux.

pearson9596 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/15 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 22/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
andrewmc 16/May/15 2nd dog

Took rests on the crux, slightly too high/pumped/stuck to downclimb, and slightly too short to easily reach the jug!

ewalker278 16/May/15 Lead
Mike_Hayes 16/May/15 Lead
with dan parkes
ben.richards 22/Apr/15 AltLd
LJC 22/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Lead everything except coalface traverse. Finished up Paragon as the rightward exit is pretty overgrown and dirty. More serious than the guidebook and E1 5c suggests.

Spearos 20/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

p2, p4+5 together

with Riggo
Dan0Me 12/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

3rd pitch. Some interesting shapes coming out getting onto the belay ledge

with James S, Geoff P
grp 12/Apr/15 AltLd
James Smith 12/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

all pitches bar the first romp were excellent, suuuper windy though so belays were a bit chilly!

with geoff, dan
Martin Bagshaw 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Katsmiff 04/Apr/15 AltLd dog

Martin started leading and ran the first two pitches into one. I lead the 3rd pitch cleanly but fell off seconding the 4th 5c pitch - back to not trusting my feet after a slippy foot hold.

cem 04/Apr/15 AltLd rpt

Led the coalface pitch. Backed off leading the 5c pitch as I was too nervous about my injured foot hitting the belay ledge if I came off.

Kirill 04/Apr/15 AltLd dog
kennythescot 22/Mar/15 AltLd dnf
with Luke Robinson
Jackislav 16/Mar/15 AltLd dog

Cruised 3&4, fell off last move on 5 due to sopping wet holds. Whole thing felt very greasy although the traverse and crux pitch offered some incredible exposed climbing, very enjoyable pitches, very frustrated at falling off moving awkwardly over the last bulge on P5 onto a very wet ledge, bird Poo didn't help either!

Cheese Monkey 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic varied climbing. P1 was a pleasant speedy romp. P2 lovely slab climbing. P3 really great well protected traverse with an awkward finish. P4 crux is placing gear to protect the crux... Literally one 5c move then jugs and easier stuff. Great pitch. Be aware one of the belay pegs is essentially snapped. was great, steep 4b pull to a body pod thing then romp to the top. Brilliant

with Peter
pheotleyr 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Ben
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
beni ??/2015 2nd
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Scooter Young ??/2015 -
ferdia 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
Slick 27/Sep/14 AltLd
alastairbegley 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

lead the 5a & 5c pitch. Traverse was nicely exposed and the 5c pitch was great, just a shame it is off the belay with a FF2 potential

tskelhon 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
beds74 26/Sep/14 AltLd

Dave did first 2, I did rest. Tried this on Tuesday and my partner just didn't fancy seconding the 5a traverse, which was pretty bold, but great moves, took awhile to work the very last move onto the ledge out! Dave had big cam on harness... So I made decision to reverse the traverse take gear out and abseil off block on pitch two. (Easier said than done!) Did 5c pitch on top rope (26th) and last pitch of Paragon (I think it was Paragon-see comments-Fuc***g desperate!)

with Dave Fisher
eel 18/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy J
bigdrew 18/Sep/14 AltLd
with Eve
Hidden 02/Sep/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Solo first pitch Lead P2 and P4

with Dan
markalmack 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

lead in 1 pitch

with gwen, james marjot
Hidden 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
RFWilkie 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd, 4th and 5th Pitches

with Bec
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/14 AltLd
richiebongo 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

We split it into 5 pitches as the party before us had and i got pitch 1,3,4.

with Mat Coburn
1poundSOCKS 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Rich led P1 (the easy rising traverse), I led P2 (the Coal Face traverse), Rich led P3 and P4 (the 5a traverse, and the 5c crux), and I led P5 (the 5a left-hand variant finish). The crux pitch belay is solid, the pegs were backed up with 2 good pieces, but insecure 5c moves with hard to place gear and a potential fall factor 2 onto the belay was exciting. Excellent route, glad we got it ticked, the crux won't get any easier, the footholds are very shiny already.

hornbywill 27/Jul/14 AltLd

Climbed up the crux pitch a few times to place gear then did it 5c seems fair

Brian H 27/Jul/14 AltLd
Ewan Russell 14/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

4th and 5th

with Tom Nichols
peter.ravenscroft27 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Beautiful Route!!!! will be remembered for sure. had to abseil off due to rain on the the 4/07/14 so we had to come and settle the score two days later in the sun.

K_Maywood 01/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 17/Jun/14 2nd

5a finish via Paragon. Exposed traverse pitch.

kyaizawa 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route - lead all pitches with 5a finish. Stiff - thought every pitch was a tech grade harder than guide, though the heat/resulting greasiness probably didn't help.

Fred_Richard 15/Jun/14 AltLd

Lead P1, P3, P5. Very nice route, shame p4 is so slippery now. The 5a Traverse definitely make the 3 stars for me.

with bill turner
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd dog
jakenichol 04/May/14 Lead β
nickwhimster 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead traverse

monsteratt 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

very Good. Lead all pitches except the traverse. Quality climbing. Shame the pitches are so short.

with Nick Whimster
richy85 ?/May/14 AltLd dnf
with George
Hidden 25/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Vincej 20/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/14 Lead
David Kay 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

A route I will never forget...! My knee made a horrible popping/crunching sound whilst making a simple step up move from the belay on pitch 5. Luckily I was on second and managed to complete the pitch despite not being able to put much weight on my left leg. Thanks Rachael for carrying me off the crag!

spragglerocks 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1, 3 & 5.

Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 15/Mar/14 AltLd dog
gg4419 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
TDSvejstrup 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

2nd and 3rd pitches definitely made the route.

zcsharp 09/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Such a great climb! Well worth the effort. Did the direct 5a finish and lead the 5c and 5a traverse pitch. Me and my partner both agree that our traverses were a lot scarier because of the wind pushing us off and that the 5c pitch felt easier than 5c. Reverse bellyflop traverse at the end of p3 FTW!

JoeE ?/Mar/14 2nd

First pitch was a bit damp.

with Irish Joe
Camilla Mapstone ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Tom, Jamie
Doug miller 11/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 11/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dave Searle ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2014 -
Luxulyan 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Tim
tim.fairhall 12/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1+2, and 4+5 (direct finish)

with Richard
smallerrich 11/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one and the last two pitches together

MD 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p3, p4 and p5 alternate direct finish.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 24/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Led p2 and loved it. Had to take low option for traverse as too short to reach ledge with inelegant mantle to belay pt. Dogged p4 (too short again) backed off p5 and pinged on 2nd but survived the direct finish.

with Mike D
Julesthe1st 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

The move off the belay was well tough!

with Mike
j.buckley87 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
bwestwood 13/Aug/13 Lead
Graham Westbrook 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Great route! 5c pitch felt pretty greasy, was quite hard work! The coal face wasn't that easy at 4b either, maybe feet in the crack instead of hands??

Trobbo 12/Aug/13 2nd
with Stu Bradbury
Peter Reynolds ?/Aug/13 2nd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Westy
Alex Thomson 16/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd dnf
Norman_P_W 04/Jul/13 AltLd
with Bob M
ian d f 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led 3rd and 4th

with Bob, Norman
Bob M 04/Jul/13 2nd
Alex the Alex ?/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

Polish and sun and a sopping wet break on pitch 3. we backed off after that...

Kevster 24/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

After first pitch, remaining pitches done in one, with the harder direct finish. Makes it hard E1 like this.

Gavdee1 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Led first pitch

with Kev
Hidden 23/Jun/13 AltLd dog
Dizz 23/Jun/13 AltLd
with EJ
Coops_13 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led flake traverse pitch and final pitch, went direct, pretty spicy finish.

lanky ?/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd dnf
Hidden 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
Misha 15/May/13 AltLd O/S

First route of the day in the shade - we knew it would be cold and it was! Davor did P1&2 together. I led P3, which was solid E1 5a - exposed, tricky moves and a bold start (particularly as Davor belayed standing on top of the pedestal off an ageing peg and two micro cams!). Followed by an ungainly shuffle to finish (the hidden hold is way over left!). Davor led P4&5 in one, taking in the vicious direct finish. Good, varied route but not sure about 3 stars. With Davor on BMC international meet.

with Davor
Ed Booth 13/May/13 2nd O/S
with Jon Redmond
morganator 13/May/13 Lead
with International Meet Guest
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
Binder 05/May/13 AltLd O/S

I led P3 (traverse) and top pitch (getting stuck in the chimney). Fantastic on a beautiful sunny day.

with Dave J, JT
Hidden ?/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
stevorobs3 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 30/Mar/13 2nd dog

Awesome climb. In retrospect I am gutted that I gave up at the end of the 5a traverse. Found a sequence which needed a dynamic approach but otherwise was not too bad on the 5c pitch. Found the first 4b pitch really fluttery.

with Steve R
IzzyWhite 28/Mar/13 2nd dnf
IzzyWhite 28/Mar/13 2nd dnf
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 -
Ed morris 08/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

A fantastic climb. very varied and interesting. The crux is hard, as is the end of the traverse pitch.

with Colin
jacobjlloyd 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S


with Mike Spooner
mikespooner 27/Oct/12 AltLd dog
with Jake Lloyd
duncan 13/Oct/12 AltLd rpt

By headtorch, as part of all the SW Hard Rock Routes IAD

Frances Bensley 30/Sep/12 AltLd β
El3ctroFuzz 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Not 5c, 5b.

with Paul Roberts
Hidden 20/Sep/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
stuart34 08/Sep/12 Lead dog

fuck me!

Dean Russell 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Worst 3 star route ever! No line, polished rock, completely imbalanced and unpleasant crux, 1 star for a few comedy moments: gangly mantle on traverse pitch, combined tactics from jim on crux and me getting scared and squeezing behind flake on final pitch

with Jim
jgordon75 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Onsight if its ethical to use your partners shoulder to place gear! Very polished and short crux sequence out of character with rest of climb. 3* for history only.

Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

short pitches but a very groovy route

with Colin
Mike W 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
shouter 28/Jun/12 AltLd
HowieB 25/Jun/12 Lead

both pitches

with Fred
ushi 23/Jun/12 AltLd
with Andy Marshall
Hidden 23/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
tgeh 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/12 2nd
rustaldo 06/May/12 Lead O/S

great route, P2 and the traverse P3 really nice climbing in an awesome position! some combined tactics used to leave the bomber belay (2pegs + nuts!) of the crux pitch

with Si
Hidden 17/Apr/12 2nd
burto 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with malc
Jonesy_A 07/Apr/12 2nd dnf

Leader (Joe) on P3 continued all the way to the top. I was Going well till the crux at the beginnning of P3 where i fell, with the only piece of gear on this rope failing. Then swung out to random platform and overhanded by my way up the rope to escape.... interesting experience...

givemetea 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Alternated leads with Patrick doing the crux pitch. Super-polished route that doesn't seem worthy of 'Top 50' status.

with Patrick
adam 24 06/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd rpt
tobydunford 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
francois 31/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Led P1 scramble and P3 traverse with the bellyflop finish. Chris led P2 and took a fall on P4 straight onto the top peg and landed underneath the ledge, exciting times. Low blood sugar led to a shameful retreat!

with Chris
BelayBunney 31/Mar/12 AltLd dnf

Bummer! We got stumped by P4! More like a 6a move than 5c - took a fall trying to make the move and ended up falling below the belay! Had to abandon as we were running out of time and energy!

Wendy Watthews 23/Mar/12 AltLd

lead pitch two, had to weigh the rope a little on pitch 4, the third belay made for some very interesting on belly cam removal :)

arandall 23/Mar/12 AltLd β

Climb the crack to an open bay, oh if only it were that simple. Brilliant route, P1 solo, second P2, lead the rest. Some very good hard moves. Managed to bleed all over it though :)

Hidden 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
pete87abs 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Rosie Crossley
Pete Graham 27/Feb/12 AltLd
with Ben Silvestre
Davebryant 25/Feb/12 AltLd
sam.hann 25/Feb/12 AltLd
paultaylor 14/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Edd
eddy-on-the-rocks 14/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Down jacket ascent. Alternate pitches 10years after first time. P2 was mondo in trainers. P Dawg did a bit of phantom to start P3 - cool.

with P Dawg
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
JonG ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
DanH9883 ??/2012 Lead
tumbling wizard ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
alasdair19 ??/2012 -

with dan aided 5c bit looked hard and ledgy

Hidden ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
conorjclarke 22/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Rhona Barr
fraserbarrett 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Dave Heaton 28/Oct/11 Lead
with James Forbes
Hidden 28/Oct/11 2nd
Anta Misina 02/Oct/11 2nd dog
mark20 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1+2 together. Polished but classy

soph ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
Becky E 23/Aug/11 AltLd

Led P2 (Coalface) clean - very pleased with that and seconded P3 clean. Needed tight rope on P4 to reach the holds. P5 (top pitch of Paragon) was horrific!

Graeme Hammond 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3, 4 & 5. Top effort by Becky on pitch 2, the Coal Face. Pitch 3 is really good. If you back up the peg belay with better natural gear as per the CC guides tip (hex/cam) and get the 2nd to sit on the ledge the 4th pitch feels slightly better protected. Finished up the harder 5a top pitch of Paragon as the 4b finish looked even harder!

with Becky E
Hidden 21/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led throughout. Found the crux pitch pretty stiff and easy to fluff. Not as 'well protected ' as RFax suggests either really. Got pretty strung out disco legging on 5c finger locks above a 'direct to belay pegs' fall potential... The pitch before required a pretty tough rockover sequence too! Great Hard Rock tick :)

gowla 16/Aug/11 AltLd dog

in the drizzle.. aided coming off the ledge

with Alan Dovey, tom maunder
Jack_F 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

had so much fun getting on to the belay on pitch 2!

nicolat ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with James Mitchell
tatz45 ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led teh 2 crux pitches as Katy had done it before.

Si ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Greg
Mark Young 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom L, Heather
Tom Livingstone 11/Jul/11 2nd
Longsufferingropeholder 08/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

The stiff crux in an exposed position is the only interesting part. The rest is... meh.

with Ed
Subwaycups 01/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Fell from the fourth (GREASY!) pitch, and then backed off. First outdoor fall...

with Rob H
CRiddiford 23/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Tom, Mike
thomasadixon 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 3, 4 an 5 in 1. Crux felt nails for the grade, was short lived though so as described I guess. Probably not 3 star but still pretty good. Finished up the last pitch of Paragon.

Hidden 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led traverse and last pitch. Traverse is awesome, managed to flop onto the belay ledge by the skin of my teeth! A quality route

a13x 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing route! Wanted to do it it for ages. Led P2 and P4.

Luke90 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Had most difficulty getting onto the belay ledge before the technical crux pitch!

with Liz Alder
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/11 AltLd dnf
hamish2016 ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Oli
manwithacam 28/May/11 AltLd

Climbed 5c pitch on top rope, dont think it is very well protected, and its rather polished.

SamChessell 27/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch, Dave lead 2nd and ran 4th and 5th into one. Absolutley amazing route, hard 5a pitch! both lead and second can take big swings. Dave did awesome on the 5c moves, getting good finger locks in and working round the polish. top route, classic. and my first multi pitch E1!

Hidden 27/May/11 AltLd O/S
1202alarm 22/May/11 AltLd
Bobby Gilbert 05/May/11 2nd rpt
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead
with Laura
Hidden 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Doug lead P1, P3, P5, Jo lead P2, I lead P4. Doug has climbed this route before (but has never lead P3). Varied and fantastic route! Considering the real risk of a factor 2 fall at the crux 5c move in P4, I would say this is an E1 route for E2 leaders.

with Jo B, Doug S
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead
Mayo 28/Apr/11 2nd
with Kaya
Alan100 28/Apr/11 -

Fantastic climb altho the 5c pitch felt easier than the 5a one. Maybe i reached too far left on the crux.. Plenty of variety and great positions all the way.

mattshort 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones 26/Apr/11 Lead RP

Sandbag at E1. Very hard work placing the gear and took many sorties. Grabbed a krab at one point. Climbed down about 15 times. Dan seconded first time! Is this really such a great classic?

with Wing Commander Daniel Whaley
Hidden 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead
sergio46 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch. 2nd pitch brilliant!! Well done to Dan on 3rd & 4th pitches. Interesting boulder problem at 4th pitch crux. Final pitch is not 4b, more 5a.

Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Jez 25/Apr/11 AltLd β

Another repeat: led P1, P3

with NJSharp
mtempest 21/Apr/11 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1, P3 (Traverse Pitch) and P5 (swing into pod). P3 was exciting - the move up to the break was protected by a rusty peg which I could only clip with a krab sitting across a rock edge. Spent ages contemplating the final move. I couldn't work it out at all. In the end I lanched across fully expecting to be off but instinct got me up. P4 (the 5c pitch) had more positive hand holds than I was expecting. Had no problem on the foot holds. Great lead by Mike. P5 was way more than 4B. I had at least 4 exhausting attempts before I got established in the pod and I had to remove my helmet for the excellent exit.

Dan_Carroll 18/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Alan
Hidden 18/Apr/11 AltLd
andybenham 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Jeremy led up the rake and across the coal face as one. I led the traverse and the pitch above (ran last two together). Couldn't work out where to go after the hard groove...tried to squeeze into a damp greasy off-width and eventually gave up and finished up the last pitch or paragon. Traverse is an excellent piece of climbing .. last move onto he ledge is quite exciting! Hard moves off the ledge felt very committing and I climbed up and down several times before finally committing. Very pleased to finally do this.

Jay C 03/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
with Clay C
Clay C 03/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
with Jay
flyinfrenchy 02/Apr/11 AltLd dnf
mbradberry2008 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Lead 3rd pitch traverse, then kept falling on the 5c pitch sooo close, abbed down, will be back!

pudding 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

i did 3rd and 4th pitches then got lost as the guide book said move out right and ending up swinging around the flake into an awesome exposed finish, should be an alternative end - much less polish up there :) managed to avoid combined tactics on pitch 4!

with mike mason
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led crux & top pitch

with Harry
JEP ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
with Pete Ollis
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
colkurtz 05/Sep/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead
Jack_F 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Quality route! worth every star! not sure what everyone is complaining though about the polish on pitch 4. you have obvoisly never climbed on chudleigh :)

with mike waller, adam cooper* super*
Alex T (RAFMA) 29/Aug/10 AltLd
with Rimon
Jim Slater 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3, P5

mike88 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

me 2nd

with Jack Folland
spum 16/Aug/10 AltLd
with ben jones
Hidden 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Si dH 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

All soloed 1st pitch, Tom led 2nd, I led 3rd, Neil led 4th (crux), Tom led 5th. Overall a disappointing route. My 5a pitch was the only good one. Neil's was really hard 5c due to polish and the gear was extremely difficult to place above an only-adequate belay - felt pretty nasty for E1 really. Would only give it more than one star for the history.

with Tom Lambert, Neil Furniss
3 Names 02/Aug/10 Lead rpt
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 Lead
with Nel Tindale, Jim Jarvis
HimTiggins 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3 & 5

with Bart
tebs 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1, 2 and 4. A bit over-rated maybe. Crux moves hard but the tough climbing is very short-lived. The traverse pitch is better, and a jolly good lead from Tim. Pretty darn good stuff

with Tim
metal arms 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 3

Hidden 12/Jul/10 Lead rpt
jasonpm 12/Jul/10 2nd dog
with TonyM
lukea 10/Jul/10 Lead β
with Al
mikeyg 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Lead traverse, 5c pitch and the mental last 4b pitch. Is it just me or is that the last pitch the scariest? Weird rock over to throw yourself into a crack followed by a green lichen slab!

thehugehead 06/Jul/10 AltLd
with mikeyg
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
melonmike 16/Jun/10 AltLd

Lead the crux fine, fell on the next pitch, injured shoulders begun here.

jacobjacob 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead the middle traverse pitch, apparently the start of the third pitch is the crux although neither me nor Thom noticed it... weird

theotherpetehill 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 12/Jun/10 AltLd dog
joese7en 03/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
PaulTanton 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
muttley_109 28/May/10 2nd dog

had to pull on gear at the start of the 5c pitch off the belay ledge due to the amount of polish. finished up top pitch of paragon (5a)

with Gary Lewis, Steven Delaney
Hidden 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
verticon 15/May/10 Lead O/S

For the traverse on the second pitch I used the horizontal crack. The footholds on the crux at the beginning of the 3rd pitch are quite polished, but the handholds are good enough.

with Craig Harwood
benkelsey 15/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

lead pitch two - just a little exposed!! may have forgoten to protect my seconds.

Hidden 15/Apr/10 -
Hidden 12/Apr/10 AltLd β
raku 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

first 2 pithes did with Beata previous year, but had to absail down (Beata was scared of traverse)

with Paul Thomson
Hidden 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 08/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
arandall ?/Apr/10 2nd dog
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Pete Rigby ??/2010 AltLd O/S
JerryD ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
brockers 29/Oct/09 AltLd

led the whole route in Sea Mist and dampness. The crux pitch was -hard-! Ended up having to pull on one of the pegs. Still hard afterwards. Did the final pitch of Paragon to finish. Excellent route.

Hidden 29/Oct/09 AltLd
Hidden 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 04/Oct/09 AltLd dog

Not a route to do in the rain. Tom made a fine traverse as the rain started to fall. Slipping and sliding I pulled up on one of the pegs to place gear after the belay ledge forefitting the clean onsight. Great route though which I would highly recommend.

twright180 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
mark4344 14/Sep/09 AltLd

great route. Led pitch 2 and found ok, after a few commiting moves away from the belay. Dogged 5c pitch and surprised that it was several moves before easier climbing. Good range of cams useful for this route.

with Nick Coles
joese7en 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S

no aid, still fairly straight foward

cat22 18/Aug/09 AltLd
with Mike
Ceridwen 09/Aug/09 AltLd

Brilliant route, pitch 3 was sophie's and really hard. probably deserves an upgrade. we both dogged it, but she did it clean, after several attempts as the hard move is right off the belay ledge.

Sophie Nunn 09/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
climber130887 19/Jun/09 AltLd
with alex cannon and emily bond
Em66 19/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with MUMC
nic42 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jack, Luke
lukehunt 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Bl@ckhawkjac, Nick Smith
Hidden 16/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Glyn 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead traverse and crux pitch. Worth every star.

davefount 10/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

glyn led coal face, traverse (after I backed off it) and 5c pitch. I led easy starting rake and last pitch which is intresting. Whether I went teh right way or not I can't see how this is 4b.

with Glyn
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JKinsella 16/May/09 AltLd G/U

Think I only lead P1. Almost benighted at 2100.

TiffTiff 04/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Steve M, Ben H
Ben Harper 04/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Tiff and Steven Mayor
Hidden 03/May/09 AltLd
brian watson 03/May/09 AltLd dog
climbergg 02/May/09 2nd
Tim M 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Emma
Hidden 22/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/09 AltLd dog
Mr Tickle 11/Apr/09 Lead dog

One slip on crux 5c move, otherwise clean. Great climb, cant decide which is my favourite pitch

with davenev
davenev 11/Apr/09 2nd

Awesome climb - clean apart from the 5c - traverse a bit spicy with a lovely seal finish!!!

with luke
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Rock Lizard ?/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 01/Nov/08 AltLd
irish paul 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Great adventureous climbing

with Dave Ripley
sebrider ?/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
eugeneth 03/Oct/08 AltLd
with Seb
Hidden 24/Aug/08 AltLd
centurion05 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Simonfarfaraway 31/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dave A
Fenwick ?/Jul/08 -
with Pete/Tomo
Matt Bennett 22/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
bfreeman 12/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Chris Todd
jfreeman 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
simonr 08/Jun/08 AltLd
davebrox ?/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Subwaycups ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Steerpike 27/May/08 AltLd
with Bruce
OffshoreAndy 04/May/08 AltLd O/S

crux traverse pitch

with Skell
Huntlyfiddler 09/Apr/08 2nd
bpmclimb 09/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Can't quite decide whether this climb is brilliant or pants.

with Clare
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd
Justin T 16/Feb/08 Lead

Aided start of crux pitch after a couple of abortive attempts sweating out of tiny finger locks.

with Wifey
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
guy757 17/Sep/07 AltLd
Frostie 17/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
AJ007 26/Aug/07 AltLd dnf

the piton belay at start of the third pitch was not inspiring so we retreated.

with Andrew
Mark Stevenson 16/Aug/07 AltLd rpt
with Rich Mayfield
chris wyatt ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Covered in dew untill the sun gets on it making it slimy. Also the traverse pitch appears easier for those over 5 ft 8

kenneM ?/Aug/07 AltLd

Ange and Bobby

with Ange Laycock, Booby Hewitt
Rich Mayfield 16/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 02/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
Wil Treasure 12/Jun/07 AltLd

Led first 2 pitches as one. Whoever said the coal face pitch is badly protected must be missing a rack. Traverse pitch was brilliant.

stuwelly85 11/Jun/07 Lead dnf

First 3 pitches clean, another group member lowered rope on 5c pitch as couldn't do

with Beck Holland
Beck Robinson 11/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with stu llewelyn
Sidekick ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S


yuha 26/May/07 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2, 3 and 4. Pitch 4 at 5c was done clean without combined tactics. Well worth the hype, a classic route!

with Bernard
Neil Adams 19/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Bez
r@bag 27/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1 (easy rake to belay) and pitch 2 (poorly protected, slimy 4c). Dom led the rest. Pitch 3 really hard traverse with sketchy in-situ gear, combined tactics necessary to get me on the belay! Pitch 4 - Awesome. Pitch 5 - harder than expected. Three stars - amazing climb! Every pitch different and enjoyable.

Somerset swede basher 27/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Laurence Davis
dmoir 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Dan B and Heather R
dannyboy83 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Heather Rogers, Dave Moir
pezzerrr 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Beck Robinson ?/Jan/07 2nd
Beck Robinson ?/Jan/07 2nd dog
Beck Robinson ?/Jan/07 2nd
Dave Rumney ??/2007 AltLd
with Sean Roberts
Dan_Carroll ??/2007 Lead dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Oct/06 AltLd
AngelaC 01/Aug/06 AltLd

AC 2+4th

ShaunD ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

awesome. top pitch felt 6a

Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead dog
Alex Mason 20/Jul/06 Lead O/S

felt hard disjointed and naff. although i was in agony with stomach pains on that day. overrated. i only did first pitch lead.

Hidden 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Ram MkiV 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Hidden 03/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
reg_measures 29/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
jimdanson 29/May/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/May/06 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
Jez 13/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
maybe_si ?/Apr/06 AltLd
with jez
Hidden ??/2006 -
wojt ??/2006 Lead
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
SR1970 ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
ewen ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
centurion05 11/Aug/05 Lead O/S


with Dan Carroll
graniterocks ?/Aug/05 AltLd β
with Nick Kemp
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Lev 06/Feb/05 AltLd O/S

Andrew stood on rich's shoulders to do the 5c move. Worth all 3 stars.

with Andrew Bitmead, Richard Abell
John Kettle ??/2005 AltLd
datoon ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with WW
William Robertson ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Mark Calver
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/2005 -
feilx ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Phil D
Scott Anderson ??/2005 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
johnboyrevel ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Faye
RussB ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

I did the crux pitch.

with Alex H
Tim Steward 20/May/04 Lead
with Andy Gibbs
skygodley 18/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Samuel P ??/2004 2nd
with Tim
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Neil ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/03 AltLd
IanD353 15/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Ailsa
lukea 28/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Al
Macca_7 27/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Great route finished in the dark tricky crux

Hidden 27/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 18/Apr/03 Lead G/U
with John Bunny
Different Steve ?/Apr/03 AltLd dnf

Led P3 then rained off

with Martin Hore and Mervyn Lamacraft
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Dan
Rob Pitt ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
JasonG ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Mal Dickson
shoulders 02/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with andy sharp, dai
Hidden 01/Jun/02 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 19/May/02 AltLd O/S
with Howard Rees
cem 29/Mar/02 AltLd O/S

Led p 3 & 5

with Rob Smithies
masa-alpin 16/Feb/02 2nd dnf

Rob lead. Abed off after P2. My first taste of Cornish climbing.

with Claire Wint [ULMC], Rob Whit [ULMC]
Rob Kinsey ??/2002 -
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Hidden 13/Aug/01 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Jul/01 AltLd
with Chris Ranner, Viv
rockjedi12345 ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S

bloody hard

with Ian Stocker
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd dog
IanGilbertJones 24/Feb/01 AltLd O/S
andy_pemberton ??/2001 AltLd
with Rik Meek
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
lost.arrow 29/Apr/00 AltLd

Twice is enough, the crux is very hard, maybe 6a. I faffed at the final 4b for some time until I found the knee lock.

with Paul Palfreyman
alex_th ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S

Stephen lead black shiny slab, I led traverse, Stephen lead pitch after traverse with slippery step up, I lead awkward wide crack at top.

with Stephen Lumb
Hidden ?/Jan/00 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Neil Ireson ??/2000 AltLd
with John
markpollak ??/2000 -
with roy thomas
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
VPJB ??/2000 -
nickdonohue 21/Nov/99 AltLd
with Mark McCarthy
richsmithinbristol 31/Aug/99 Lead O/S

With Liz Cant. She smashed the water bottle as we left the car. Roasting hot day and she thought we were going to die. Harmony resumed by the last pitch.

Roget 18/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
Ally Smith ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S

With Eddie Church - date a guess, but remember it was an August bank holiday weekend before going to Uni

jfletcher 17/Jul/99 Lead
with Charlotte Fletcher
timreynolds 01/May/99 AltLd

Led crux traverse pitch

with Mick Cooke, Sean Corbett
WB 03/Apr/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Chad123 ??/1999 AltLd O/S
chris sm 23/May/98 AltLd O/S
Just Another Dave ??/1998 AltLd
with Ben Hope, Jo Bertalot, Laura
Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Alun Richardson
pete johnson ?/Aug/97 AltLd
with Bob Allen
michael burrows 30/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with helen swygart
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
stuart100 14/May/97 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
lost.arrow 27/Apr/97 AltLd
with Martin Styles
Pete Nugent 29/Mar/97 AltLd rpt

Had led before, TM did main pitches

with Tony Madden
cornishben ?/Jan/97 Lead dnf
with Andy Connor
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 -
colin milton 14/Sep/96 AltLd dog

aid to start 5c crack

with eric milton
mikej 13/Sep/96 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ?/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
craig h 24/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
tompercy 04/Apr/96 AltLd

Ghost start, Paragon finish.

with Tom Bridgeland
rurp ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/95 AltLd
frost ?/May/95 -
with J Turner
nokishatov 17/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
ste_d 17/Apr/95 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden ?/Apr/95 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
with Paul Tucker
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Guy ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
goi.ashmore 06/Dec/94 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

with Tim Darlow
brianrunner ?/Sep/94 AltLd
with gordon innes
GAtkins 24/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Richard Brown, Tim Noble
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
sdht ??/1994 -
with Tim Reynolds
jcw ??/1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
3 Names ??/1994 Lead dnf
with Brian Parker
John Southworth ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
GuyC 27/Jun/93 AltLd O/S

Hilarious fun using combined tactics on 5c move!

with Steve B, Dave S
K1 ??/1993 Lead
Nick Biven 27/Dec/91 Lead O/S
with Rich Whitwell
rogerskews 31/May/91 AltLd
with Bryn Roberts
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
whispering nic 28/Mar/91 AltLd
with Graham Iles
Hidden 26/Mar/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/90 AltLd
NickJH ?/Aug/90 Lead
with D Townsend
biggianthead ?/Jun/90 -
with C
Andy Say 15/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Grezza ?/Apr/90 AltLd

resident fulmar for added risk factor

daviesxxx ??/1990 -
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

philhilo ??/1990 -
philhilo ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
tapley 24/Oct/89 AltLd
with John Sumner
BigHairyIan 28/Aug/89 AltLd RP

I failed to lead the 5c pitch. Was too hard, and I was going well at the time...

with Mike Buckley (Little Mike)
Bruce Kerr 13/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/89 -

Fell on the peg. Done a couple of times since .

Hidden 22/Mar/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
richparry ??/1989 -
pauldrew ??/1989 AltLd
with Dominic Leggett
Tony Buckley ?/Aug/88 Lead
with Richard Brockman
Hidden 12/May/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/88 Lead
steve taylor ?/Mar/88 AltLd
with stumpy
Mike Owen 23/Aug/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
andyblain 23/May/87 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch

wynaptomos ?/Apr/86 2nd O/S
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
DDDD ??/1986 -
Eduardo Martinez 01/Sep/85 Lead O/S

Mandy's first E1 second

scree ?/Apr/85 -
peterbeaumont ??/1985 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1985 Solo O/S
Robmwatt ??/1985 Lead
keefe 22/Aug/84 -
GordonHart ?/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with James Butler
Campbell42 ?/Aug/84 AltLd O/S
with Eric Marsden
Richard Weller 28/May/84 AltLd
with Pete Dewdney
malc 12/Apr/84 AltLd dog
with JW
Greg Cunningham ??/1984 AltLd
with caroline lee
KRB 01/Sep/83 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
Mark Kemball 20/Jun/83 AltLd
with Mike Arnold
TonyF ?/May/83 Lead O/S
with Paul Harrison
nigehughes ?/Apr/83 AltLd
with Eric Joyce
steveboote ??/1983 Lead

With Rona Owens

charlesmfrench 01/Sep/82 AltLd


Nigel Coe 31/May/82 AltLd dog

Fell off crux, rope burns round leg, ended up aiding that section.

with Steve Portnoi
DanW ??/1982 Lead O/S
Roy Stuart ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Billy Bones
The Reaper 25/Aug/81 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/81 -
Nigel Coe 25/May/80 Lead
with John Walmsley
GeoffG ?/May/80 AltLd
Nic Robinson 08/Apr/80 Lead O/S
with Roy Stupak
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with Others, FMC
uphillnow 01/Nov/79 AltLd

Did the top 5b pitch

with Al Bennett
duncan ?/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
Mike Owen 29/May/79 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Peat
Andy Edgar ??/1979 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/78 AltLd
Chris Terrey 06/Nov/77 AltLd
with Chris Lloyd
Hidden 15/Aug/77 AltLd
Hidden 15/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 04/Jun/77 AltLd
with Richard Crewe
D Tempest ?/Feb/77 AltLd
Steve Lewis 27/Nov/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Falko 16/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant
Marcus ??/1976 -
Nigel Bond 22/Jun/75 AltLd
with Ian Duckworth
Ken Taylor 15/May/75 2nd
with Jonathan Lagoe
Rob Davies 31/Mar/75 2nd dog

In those days aid (leader) or strong pull (2nd) on 5c pitch was usual. A fine way to spend my 21st birthday.

with Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Hidden ?/Mar/75 Lead O/S
petemeads ??/1974 Lead
Steve Clegg 12/Sep/73 AltLd
with Chris H
Martin Bennett 30/Jul/73 -
with RA
Tony Holdsworth 01/Jan/70 -
Seymore Butt ??/1970 AltLd
with Mick Briggs
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 146
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 142
Votes cast 132
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set