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CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gingerlings 14 Jul Lead O/S
Climbthatpitch 10 Jul 2nd
Trevers 1 Jun 2nd O/S Good lead by Adam. I think "psychotic" refers to the state of mind you'd need to be in to enjoy this. I was nervous seconding it. The moves aren't necessarily individually difficult, but crappy gear, continually awkward, off-balance moves, slopey holds and a good covering of dust and crap everywhere. I won't be repeating this. Doesn't deserve a star. HVS 4c.
Good lead by Adam. I think "psychotic" refers to the state of mind you'd need to be in to enjoy this. I was nervous seconding it. The moves aren't necessarily individually difficult, but crappy gear, continually awkward, off-balance moves, slopey holds and a good covering of dust and crap everywhere. I won't be repeating this. Doesn't deserve a star. HVS 4c.
Rachael88 1 Jun 2nd
with BStar
with BStar
BStar 1 Jun Lead O/S Well... I took a pair of secateurs which helped but I still wasn’t impressed with this one. Very awkward climbing on dirty holds, with pretty crap gear for the first half of the route. Certain deck out potential. The moves didn’t feel too bad, just difficult above a bunch of micro wires... Zero stars from me and most certainly HVS 4c/5a - sustained AND poor gear.
with Trevers, Rachael88
Well... I took a pair of secateurs which helped but I still wasn’t impressed with this one. Very awkward climbing on dirty holds, with pretty crap gear for the first half of the route. Certain deck out potential. The moves didn’t feel too bad, just difficult above a bunch of micro wires... Zero stars from me and most certainly HVS 4c/5a - sustained AND poor gear.
with Trevers, Rachael88
No? Yes! 21 Apr 2nd rpt take secateurs !
with Bern
take secateurs !
with Bern
Hidden 17 Mar Lead O/S
garygecko ?? -
alanblyth 29 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tewe
with Tewe
Ian Stirrups 2 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Found the leftwards diagonal section very run out, with insecure climbing on the first half and groundfall potential. Was very grateful for small cam placement (hidden under a sort of cobweb), halfway through this section. Managed to prune a bit of the bit of hawthorn at the top of the chimney which helped. Main tree not a problem. Rest of climb still sustained and tricky with some 5aish moves. Reckon its HVS given the runout.
with Gary B, Sue
Found the leftwards diagonal section very run out, with insecure climbing on the first half and groundfall potential. Was very grateful for small cam placement (hidden under a sort of cobweb), halfway through this section. Managed to prune a bit of the bit of hawthorn at the top of the chimney which helped. Main tree not a problem. Rest of climb still sustained and tricky with some 5aish moves. Reckon its HVS given the runout.
with Gary B, Sue
Hidden 2 Aug, 2018 2nd
will_benfold 14 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Had intended to do Cryptic, but didn't like the runout up to the bulge so just stayed on this one. Moved over for the finish though.
Had intended to do Cryptic, but didn't like the runout up to the bulge so just stayed on this one. Moved over for the finish though.
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 2nd
stevethomas ??, 2018 Lead
Chris Sansum 11 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt Really like this climb! 2 stars.
Really like this climb! 2 stars.
Dave Mahon 15 Aug, 2016 Lead Felt like HVS in places. Winding route so extending well is the key in places but I managed to avoid rope drag. Going up 'diagonally left across the wall' has no gear until the chimney, bold but the holds are all good. Feels steep at the hawthorn and the top left traverse feels a little bold. Did on a baking hot sunny day in August which didn't help, I has melting!
with Brian Mead
Felt like HVS in places. Winding route so extending well is the key in places but I managed to avoid rope drag. Going up 'diagonally left across the wall' has no gear until the chimney, bold but the holds are all good. Feels steep at the hawthorn and the top left traverse feels a little bold. Did on a baking hot sunny day in August which didn't help, I has melting!
with Brian Mead
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 2nd
clipskipper 2 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Nice moves higher up. Well protected. Hawthorn tree is a mixed blessing!
with Dan
Nice moves higher up. Well protected. Hawthorn tree is a mixed blessing!
with Dan
gobbledigook 2 Jul, 2016 2nd backed off the lead at the top of the chimney, the "ledge" was the trunk of the hawthorn tree. swapped leads and did it on second
backed off the lead at the top of the chimney, the "ledge" was the trunk of the hawthorn tree. swapped leads and did it on second
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 2nd
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
youwillfindjimbo 20 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant route, I think it would get more stars if there weren't so many classics around it. The hawthorn bush has left me looking like I had a fight with a cat today though!
with Ed
Brilliant route, I think it would get more stars if there weren't so many classics around it. The hawthorn bush has left me looking like I had a fight with a cat today though!
with Ed
jon_gill1 16 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S Massive run out leaving a huge deck out potential!some interesting moves near the top,but an ok route I guess.
with ripper
Massive run out leaving a huge deck out potential!some interesting moves near the top,but an ok route I guess.
with ripper
ripper 16 Jan, 2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
Lizziemay 3 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Interesting climb. Very shrubby. Lots of zig zagging
with Matt
Interesting climb. Very shrubby. Lots of zig zagging
with Matt
Bob M 10 Jun, 2015 Lead
with Bob Brown, riggy
with Bob Brown, riggy
cem 9 May, 2015 2nd rpt
with Tony Quinn
with Tony Quinn
adam088 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Quico
with Quico
mossrug ?May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
cameron_hall 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Great climb with some surprising and interesting moves, especially out to bridging the chimney. I got a bit spiked by the hawthorn, but it's definitely a worthwhile route.
Great climb with some surprising and interesting moves, especially out to bridging the chimney. I got a bit spiked by the hawthorn, but it's definitely a worthwhile route.
ian bryant ??, 2015 Lead
Hidden ??, 2015 -
jing 31 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S The hawthorn bush growing above the chimney makes traverse on the ledge nearly impossible. So we down climbed the upper section of the chimney and traversed just below the hawthorn bush to go up the crack from the right of the tree. Overall the holds are very dusty, rocks are loose at places and protection is fairly poor. So a very poor experience for the leader. As a second I enjoyed the climbing though - some good moves. Hopefully this route will improve with more traffic.
with vyl20
The hawthorn bush growing above the chimney makes traverse on the ledge nearly impossible. So we down climbed the upper section of the chimney and traversed just below the hawthorn bush to go up the crack from the right of the tree. Overall the holds are very dusty, rocks are loose at places and protection is fairly poor. So a very poor experience for the leader. As a second I enjoyed the climbing though - some good moves. Hopefully this route will improve with more traffic.
with vyl20
Snot 3 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Feel like I've climbed this before a long time ago but it's not in my log book so..maybe not. Fairly poor gear and the fight with the hawthorn bush was less than pleasant. Don't agree with the star but was an experience I suppose.
with Tom
Feel like I've climbed this before a long time ago but it's not in my log book so..maybe not. Fairly poor gear and the fight with the hawthorn bush was less than pleasant. Don't agree with the star but was an experience I suppose.
with Tom
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
AngelaC 3 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 2 Jun, 2014 Lead
Fred_Richard 1 Jun, 2014 Lead Nice route. Top end VS, serious and adventurous for the grade. and long.
with Tony Bird
Nice route. Top end VS, serious and adventurous for the grade. and long.
with Tony Bird
clmacdonald 18 May, 2014 Lead
tskelhon 18 May, 2014 2nd O/S
Mick Riley 5 May, 2014 2nd RP
with Dominic
with Dominic
Mayaculpa 30 Nov, 2013 2nd Nice climbing on crisp rock, last climb of the day, got down in the last of the light
Nice climbing on crisp rock, last climb of the day, got down in the last of the light
pheotleyr 30 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Really really good. Runout in places, but zero polish.
Really really good. Runout in places, but zero polish.
AndyMcCoy 23 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Dave P
with Dave P
cpoad 21 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Very bold
with John S
Very bold
with John S
WalnutHorse 8 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Muttly 2 Jun, 2013 2nd β Pleasant enough if a little odd in it's kinaesthetic experience.
Pleasant enough if a little odd in it's kinaesthetic experience.
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Billg 7 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 -
RileyJ ??, 2013 2nd
Chris Sansum 18 Nov, 2012 Lead rpt
with HannahC
with HannahC
Neil Morbey 31 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
saraguti 20 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with rick sewards
with rick sewards
No? Yes! 17 Jun, 2012 Lead Varied and absorbing climbing. There is some gear on the diagonal ramp but this is surely closer to HVS and 2 stars ? ( guide entry says I first led it in 1986 ! )
with John the Dec
Varied and absorbing climbing. There is some gear on the diagonal ramp but this is surely closer to HVS and 2 stars ? ( guide entry says I first led it in 1986 ! )
with John the Dec
bpmclimb 16 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with hms
with hms
Hidden 16 May, 2012 Lead O/S
ajc 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Morri
with Morri
Rob Exile Ward 11 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Seemed quite good value for the grade, it's a long pitch with plenty of climbing... but it was the my first trad climb of the year so my judgement may be flawed!
with Sam Ward
Seemed quite good value for the grade, it's a long pitch with plenty of climbing... but it was the my first trad climb of the year so my judgement may be flawed!
with Sam Ward
Mick Riley 21 Jan, 2012 Lead Originally thought we were climbing original route and started in walking boots, changed to climbing shoes part way in. Failed just before the hawthorn and lowered off.
with Dominic
Originally thought we were climbing original route and started in walking boots, changed to climbing shoes part way in. Failed just before the hawthorn and lowered off.
with Dominic
rob1234 27 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 27 Nov, 2011 Lead rpt
with rob1234
with rob1234
leigh 24 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Went too high on rising leftward trend and ended up in bushes and overgrown dirty ledges before traversing right back to lower off. Quite a dirty adventure but unecessary in hindsight - doh!
with Marco
Went too high on rising leftward trend and ended up in bushes and overgrown dirty ledges before traversing right back to lower off. Quite a dirty adventure but unecessary in hindsight - doh!
with Marco
mandy 16 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S unpleasantly run out above poor protection up to the tree.
with elf
unpleasantly run out above poor protection up to the tree.
with elf
bpmclimb 14 Oct, 2011 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 14 Oct, 2011 2nd
steve gould 12 Sep, 2011 2nd
with cem
with cem
cem 12 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S A surprisingly good route. Climbed in a howling (& almost psychosis-inducing) wind
A surprisingly good route. Climbed in a howling (& almost psychosis-inducing) wind
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
will_benfold 26 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Niall_H
with Niall_H
Niall_H 26 Jun, 2011 2nd
demarcation86 25 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Mark Storey 21 Jun, 2011 Lead dnf Long route, with poor protection on the rising traverse. Ran out of gear and lowered off the Hawthorne.
with katec
Long route, with poor protection on the rising traverse. Ran out of gear and lowered off the Hawthorne.
with katec
Different Steve 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Carol Fowles
with Carol Fowles
Hidden ??, 2011 -
stuart34 20 May, 2010 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 18 Apr, 2010 Lead Pretty dusty which detracted from the experience. A bold but easy section in the middle, but otherwise good gear.
with Chris Allan
Pretty dusty which detracted from the experience. A bold but easy section in the middle, but otherwise good gear.
with Chris Allan
cjohn62 18 Apr, 2010 2nd
with gareth
with gareth
chrisallan 18 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
martinp 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Alan C
with Alan C
Chris Sansum 10 Apr, 2010 2nd rpt
with Gary Lewin
with Gary Lewin
Luke Marsden ?Apr, 2010 -
with Jonathan Plumridge
with Jonathan Plumridge
Luke Marsden ?Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
with Jonathan Plumridge
Chris Sansum 13 Mar, 2010 2nd rpt
with Richard Lade
with Richard Lade
Trefo 30 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S Felt hard for vs,good gear most of the way.interesting if slightly wayward line.
Felt hard for vs,good gear most of the way.interesting if slightly wayward line.
djking1983 2 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S
Rhys Jones 2 Jan, 2010 -
Bram 2 Jan, 2010 Lead
with Rhys Jones, djking1983
with Rhys Jones, djking1983
Ian JL 18 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Little B 11 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Really nice climb. Quite adventurous. I'd give it 3 stars (although probably a good idea not to so it doesn't get polished up like some of the other honey pots at Wintour's!). If you like this one, have a go at Jos'e and the Fly on Fly Wall.
with Matt Lunn
Really nice climb. Quite adventurous. I'd give it 3 stars (although probably a good idea not to so it doesn't get polished up like some of the other honey pots at Wintour's!). If you like this one, have a go at Jos'e and the Fly on Fly Wall.
with Matt Lunn
James_86 23 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Circus
with Circus
3 Names 23 Aug, 2009 2nd
fishinwater 16 Aug, 2009 2nd
with Nick E
with Nick E
evhall 11 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S confidence lacking tonight so found it hard going - lovely climb - bit of everything - very long runout in middle though
with Dave + Jules
confidence lacking tonight so found it hard going - lovely climb - bit of everything - very long runout in middle though
with Dave + Jules
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
lukewilliams 14 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
beardy mike 20 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S A serious lead. Sections were dirty and a little loose but over all enjoyable. Perhaps not worth as many stars as the book suggests.
with Matt Bengy
A serious lead. Sections were dirty and a little loose but over all enjoyable. Perhaps not worth as many stars as the book suggests.
with Matt Bengy
Hidden 12 Jun, 2009 Lead
Rob84 26 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Chris James
with Chris James
duncan 29 Mar, 2009 2nd
with Toby Haughey
with Toby Haughey
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 17 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Dave Notton
with Dave Notton
Strange little creature 7 Jun, 2008 Lead when you have done the bridging move across the top of the chimney layback slightly with feet on the ledge and the traverse to the hawthorne bush just falls into place.
with SimonSanders
when you have done the bridging move across the top of the chimney layback slightly with feet on the ledge and the traverse to the hawthorne bush just falls into place.
with SimonSanders
My Gravity 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ben P
with Ben P
Huntlyfiddler 25 Feb, 2008 2nd
bpmclimb 25 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S The L rising line towards the top of the chimney is easy climbing but feels a bit run-out
The L rising line towards the top of the chimney is easy climbing but feels a bit run-out
Mark Davies PK 26 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S 1st route of the year
with Cider nut
1st route of the year
with Cider nut
Hidden 17 Jun, 2006 Lead
alan moore ??, 2000 -
mikej 19 Sep, 1991 AltLd
with Keith Edwards
with Keith Edwards
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 28
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set