A nice winter line up mixed groves and chimneys. Start just below and right of Dogleg; below a left facing groove, next to a small tree.
1. 50m Climb the groove to a snow platform and good gear, follow the chimney and exit right, to belay were the route crosses "Souls on fire".
2. 50m Continue rightwards to the next chimney and follow this with increasing difficulty to an overhang bulge(crux) , surmount this and belay in an obvious cave above.
3. and 4. 60m Join SE Buttress and follow easy ground to the top.
1. 50m Climb the groove to a snow platform and good gear, follow the chimney and exit right, to belay were the route crosses "Souls on fire".
2. 50m Continue rightwards to the next chimney and follow this with increasing difficulty to an overhang bulge(crux) , surmount this and belay in an obvious cave above.
3. and 4. 60m Join SE Buttress and follow easy ground to the top.
A.Main, M.Jarvie. 20/Jan/2008.
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Route of Interest
Magic Pillar
Grade: IV 5 ***
(Lochnagar)