Rockfax Description
An initially serious slabby wall gives way to a steep crack-system. Start at a left-slanting seam, right of the broad arete.
Climb the seam past a ledge on the right, then make a committing move left to a good foothold in the shallow groove on the left, and a thread in the break above. Climb the gradually steepening line of cracks to the col between the prow and the main cliff. Finish up the wall and corner opposite the prow. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, HVS Cornwall, Target Routes 2019/2020

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
John MacQuarrie 11 Aug Lead No.3 of the day Did in 2 pitches Belayed at the top of the crack , was windy so allowed better communication (also dropped our favourite nut which thankfully Bekx managed to retrieve)
No.3 of the day Did in 2 pitches Belayed at the top of the crack , was windy so allowed better communication (also dropped our favourite nut which thankfully Bekx managed to retrieve)
samdreynolds 5 Aug 2nd O/S The start was fun, nice moves. Toe injury feeling better, sent in one trainer one climbing shoe!
The start was fun, nice moves. Toe injury feeling better, sent in one trainer one climbing shoe!
BigBoyDanny 5 Aug 2nd O/S
James Milton 5 Aug Lead O/S
Lewis_F 27 Jul Lead rpt Seems to get better every time. Definitely at least 5a though. 2 stars
Seems to get better every time. Definitely at least 5a though. 2 stars
taylordaley 27 Jul 2nd O/S
janegallwey 25 Jul Lead O/S
royle883 12 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun Lead O/S
climbdevon 25 May -
Lewis_F 21 May Lead rpt Nice climbing with decent gear (placements a little creative at times). Sustained at 4c/5a, felt a lot smoother this time.
Nice climbing with decent gear (placements a little creative at times). Sustained at 4c/5a, felt a lot smoother this time.
ssutton 27 Apr Lead O/S Stuck to the right hand block to finish, bridging would be too easy to continue at the grade.
with Edward
Stuck to the right hand block to finish, bridging would be too easy to continue at the grade.
with Edward
Jim blackford 7 Mar Lead O/S
with Lewis_F
with Lewis_F
Lewis_F 7 Mar 2nd O/S Felt more 5a than 4c, some great moves though.
Felt more 5a than 4c, some great moves though.
Cbulman 3 Feb 2nd β
PalfreyN 3 Feb Lead O/S
Lawrenceg 26 Aug, 2018 -
Jonathangardner 23 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Naomi and I did it we were so chuffed, the first move was really tricky with no protection! Naomi got scared at the chimney bit and had to have a bit of help but otherwise did amazingly.
Naomi and I did it we were so chuffed, the first move was really tricky with no protection! Naomi got scared at the chimney bit and had to have a bit of help but otherwise did amazingly.
Sam Buckee 10 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Vinnyb
with Vinnyb
Vinnyb 10 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 2nd
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 Lead
Issy 24 Jul, 2018 2nd
with mjc1010
with mjc1010
Tom Seccombe 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Hernan (Chilli)
with Hernan (Chilli)
Tommy yorke 13 May, 2018 Lead O/S Great climb bold start steep but well protected upper section really enjoyed it
with Alan Dovey
Great climb bold start steep but well protected upper section really enjoyed it
with Alan Dovey
Jevo 3 May, 2018 TR
with Donesy
with Donesy
Donesy 3 May, 2018 TR dog first outdoor climb
with Jevo
first outdoor climb
with Jevo
David Staples 11 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 31 May, 2017 Lead dnf Retreated 15' up as gear was poor.
with Angus McLean
Retreated 15' up as gear was poor.
with Angus McLean
G Weatherley 17 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Ed Walker
with Ed Walker
JGriffiths 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Megan.richardson1 5 Nov, 2016 TR
Marl 20 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Chappers
with Chappers
TomSW 31 Jul, 2016 2nd
johncoxmysteriously 13 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Easier for the tall, I'd imagine. I'm surprised there aren't more short VS climbers tackling it at the old grade and not enjoying it. I also thought the top wall was pretty stiff for 4c, but maybe I did it wrong - the side wall above the belay at 90 degrees to the main cliff, not the headwall to the right of the crack as shown on the diagram in our guidebook.
with Simon Carr
Easier for the tall, I'd imagine. I'm surprised there aren't more short VS climbers tackling it at the old grade and not enjoying it. I also thought the top wall was pretty stiff for 4c, but maybe I did it wrong - the side wall above the belay at 90 degrees to the main cliff, not the headwall to the right of the crack as shown on the diagram in our guidebook.
with Simon Carr
Hidden 1 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hidden 28 May, 2016 Lead
outdoors.nick 25 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
Lizard Ollie 31 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Rob Owen 31 Oct, 2015 Lead β
with Ollie Thomas
with Ollie Thomas
Chimnastics 27 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Great climb after an initial bold and tricky traverse. Took ages to commit, and when I did so, had appalling footwork. The rest of the climb was great fun.
with Luke Randall
Great climb after an initial bold and tricky traverse. Took ages to commit, and when I did so, had appalling footwork. The rest of the climb was great fun.
with Luke Randall
JulesV 6 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with SV
with SV
SGD 5 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Started a bit to far right and went a bit direct. i.e missed the move left.... Excellent route with very contrasting sections. Balancy and bold (E1 the way I went) then steeper and well protected followed by traditional. Really good.
with vholmes
Started a bit to far right and went a bit direct. i.e missed the move left.... Excellent route with very contrasting sections. Balancy and bold (E1 the way I went) then steeper and well protected followed by traditional. Really good.
with vholmes
tobydunford 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
Mayo 31 Mar, 2015 Lead
with Stocker
with Stocker
Hidden 15 Feb, 2015 Lead
Rob Owen 15 Feb, 2015 2nd
with JakeB.
with JakeB.
JoeCoxson 15 Feb, 2015 Lead rpt Fun repeat, varied climbing, something of everything.
Fun repeat, varied climbing, something of everything.
lukegorman 15 Feb, 2015 2nd
lukegorman 19 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 19 Oct, 2014 2nd
JoeCoxson 11 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Another HVS tick according to West Country Climbs, and although I reckon I cruised it, I'd agree. Fun climbing after the balancey start.
Another HVS tick according to West Country Climbs, and although I reckon I cruised it, I'd agree. Fun climbing after the balancey start.
Wendy Watthews 11 Oct, 2014 2nd rpt
arandall 11 Oct, 2014 2nd rpt
leerybunny 2 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt
jackwf01 18 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
mattparratt 28 Jun, 2014 2nd With Nick B
With Nick B
jhb0510 5 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with Luke Randall
with Luke Randall
Jack jk 14 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Lottie T 14 May, 2014 2nd dog
with Jack jk
with Jack jk
lukegorman ??, 2014 Lead O/S
rd20 14 Aug, 2013 Lead dog Slipped off whilst smearing on traverse at start
with Len
Slipped off whilst smearing on traverse at start
with Len
Huntlyfiddler 25 Jul, 2013 2nd
bpmclimb 25 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt In two pitches. Awkward and difficult to protect first section.
In two pitches. Awkward and difficult to protect first section.
th£wrecker 4 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
with surferstan
with surferstan
SurferStan 4 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 26 Jul, 2012 Lead
Mike_Hayes 10 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 10 Jul, 2012 2nd
matiamallia 6 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
flyinfrenchy 25 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with James McCann
with James McCann
hotfeet 8 Apr, 2012 Lead
with David Hammond, Blue68
with David Hammond, Blue68
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Blue68 8 Apr, 2012 2nd RP Got my feet wrong on the traverse and fell, got it the second try, think HVS in Rockfax is right!
with David Hammond, hotfeet
Got my feet wrong on the traverse and fell, got it the second try, think HVS in Rockfax is right!
with David Hammond, hotfeet
annak 8 Apr, 2012 2nd dnf
with Zaheer Durrani
with Zaheer Durrani
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 2nd
jchenoweth 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Espen
with Espen
mattshort 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Phil Porter
with Phil Porter
aljezurusrf08 24 Mar, 2012 TR RP
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 2nd dog
Wendy Watthews 4 Mar, 2012 2nd Direct start
Direct start
arandall 4 Mar, 2012 Lead β Direct start.
Direct start.
Wendy Watthews 3 Feb, 2012 2nd
arandall 3 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Went slightly the wrong way at the end but still did the crux.
Went slightly the wrong way at the end but still did the crux.
gingerking ?Feb, 2012 Lead rpt direct start much more fun, almost makes it worth hvs
direct start much more fun, almost makes it worth hvs
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Dave192939 13 Nov, 2011 Lead rpt Led in buffeting winds with hiking boots clipped on. Fun times! I'd give it HVS 5a.
with Simon Allan
Led in buffeting winds with hiking boots clipped on. Fun times! I'd give it HVS 5a.
with Simon Allan
Hidden 6 Nov, 2011 Lead
Sut 27 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 24 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with Uber Mike
with Uber Mike
mark_jee 14 Jul, 2011 TR
andybenham 30 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Backed off the direct and did the normal route. Both options are fairly bold. After that its a very pleasant climb to the top.
with Stann Norrie
Backed off the direct and did the normal route. Both options are fairly bold. After that its a very pleasant climb to the top.
with Stann Norrie
Dave192939 26 May, 2011 2nd O/S
SamChessell 26 May, 2011 2nd rpt
with MrToad
with MrToad
Hidden 26 May, 2011 Lead O/S
leerybunny 16 May, 2011 Lead rpt Repeated with the 5a direct start. Cracking
with NYork
Repeated with the 5a direct start. Cracking
with NYork
James Mitchelmore 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
SamChessell 12 May, 2011 2nd rpt
SamChessell 11 May, 2011 Lead rpt Second time on the route, first time climbing it on lead. amazing route with a little bit of everything.
Second time on the route, first time climbing it on lead. amazing route with a little bit of everything.
gingerking ?May, 2011 Lead β
gingerking ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
gingerking ?May, 2011 2nd O/S
SamChessell 29 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
mbradberry2008 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
abicampbell 21 Apr, 2011 2nd dnf
DOVEY 21 Apr, 2011 Lead teaching
with abi & Corlos
teaching
with abi & Corlos
Dave89 20 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Laura89
with Laura89
carlgodfrey 22 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
Kim Middlebrook 6 Nov, 2010 -
andrea83 8 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Oh no, thought I'd got a HVS tick! Given HVS in Rockfax! Good route, really enjoyed.
Oh no, thought I'd got a HVS tick! Given HVS in Rockfax! Good route, really enjoyed.
Matt Fry 8 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S Good effort from Andrea, especially in greasy conditions - HVS.
Good effort from Andrea, especially in greasy conditions - HVS.
Hidden 5 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
berry 5 Aug, 2010 2nd
robroy ?Aug, 2010 2nd
MoWalker3 16 Jul, 2010 -
nickstephens 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
1651SP 26 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
haylow 14 Jun, 2010 2nd
tdudley 14 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
jakenichol 14 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2010 2nd
redshapedfriday ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
JessicaBell ?Jun, 2010 2nd
with Graham Hadaway
with Graham Hadaway
gg4419 ?Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 27 Apr, 2010 Lead
jchenoweth 2 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dan
with Dan
james999 ??, 2010 Lead O/S
JerryD ??, 2010 -
1651SP 17 Dec, 2009 2nd
mbradberry2008 18 Oct, 2009 2nd rpt
with Gareth Greeves
with Gareth Greeves
gg4419 ?Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Marti999 19 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Oddjob 14 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Direct Start.
Direct Start.
Rowansb ??, 2009 -
Huntlyfiddler 7 Aug, 2008 2nd
bpmclimb 7 Aug, 2008 Lead rpt
Bob M 29 May, 2008 Lead
Master Chief 19 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
with jgclimb
with jgclimb
leerybunny 26 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
with Tim W
with Tim W
Tim W 26 Jan, 2008 2nd O/S
midgelt 24 Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
with Oli
with Oli
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead
GuyC 31 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Jon Bell
with Jon Bell
Hidden 16 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
blahblahblah 28 May, 2005 Lead O/S Led 1st pitch
with Pascal Guilloux
Led 1st pitch
with Pascal Guilloux
Hidden 10 Apr, 2004 Lead
bpmclimb 5 May, 2003 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 5 May, 2003 2nd
nickdonohue ??, 2002 Lead
with Simon Reynolds
with Simon Reynolds
Nettle 16 Sep, 1999 Lead O/S ML1 Course 1/99 * - 4c,4c - Bill Billingsley
with Bill Billingsley
ML1 Course 1/99 * - 4c,4c - Bill Billingsley
with Bill Billingsley
crater 8 Sep, 1995 TR
Ashley Hold 26 Aug, 1995 Solo
with Laurence North
with Laurence North
Charles Arthur 15 Apr, 1995 2nd Unmemorable.
Unmemorable.
colin milton 8 Apr, 1995 Lead
with eric milton
with eric milton
Steve Claw ??, 1995 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 26
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set