Rockfax Description
An initially serious slabby wall gives way to a steep crack-system. Start at a left-slanting seam, right of the broad arete.
Climb the seam past a ledge on the right, then make a committing move left to a good foothold in the shallow groove on the left, and a thread in the break above. Climb the gradually steepening line of cracks to the col between the prow and the main cliff. Finish up the wall and corner opposite the prow. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics.

David Staples 11/Sep 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 31/May Lead dnf

Retreated 15' up as gear was poor.

with Angus McLean
G Weatherley 17/Apr 2nd
with Ed Walker
JGriffiths 15/Apr Lead O/S
Megan.richardson1 05/Nov/16 TR
Marl 20/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Chappers
TomSW 31/Jul/16 2nd
johncoxmysteriously 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Easier for the tall, I'd imagine. I'm surprised there aren't more short VS climbers tackling it at the old grade and not enjoying it. I also thought the top wall was pretty stiff for 4c, but maybe I did it wrong - the side wall above the belay at 90 degrees to the main cliff, not the headwall to the right of the crack as shown on the diagram in our guidebook.

with Simon Carr
Hidden 01/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead
outdoors.nick 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Lizard Ollie 31/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Rob Owen 31/Oct/15 Lead β
with Ollie Thomas
manbat 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Great climb after an initial bold and tricky traverse. Took ages to commit, and when I did so, had appalling footwork. The rest of the climb was great fun.

with Luke Randall
JulesV 06/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Shauna
SGD 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Started a bit to far right and went a bit direct. i.e missed the move left.... Excellent route with very contrasting sections. Balancy and bold (E1 the way I went) then steeper and well protected followed by traditional. Really good.

tobydunford 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Mayo 31/Mar/15 Lead
with Stocker
Hidden 15/Feb/15 Lead
Rob Owen 15/Feb/15 2nd
with JakeB.
JoeCoxson 15/Feb/15 Lead rpt

Fun repeat, varied climbing, something of everything.

Wendy Watthews 19/Oct/14 2nd
with Luke
JoeCoxson 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Another HVS tick according to West Country Climbs, and although I reckon I cruised it, I'd agree. Fun climbing after the balancey start.

Wendy Watthews 11/Oct/14 2nd rpt
arandall 11/Oct/14 2nd rpt
leerybunny 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt
jackwf01 18/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mattparratt 28/Jun/14 2nd

With Nick B

jhb0510 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Luke Randall
Jack J Keogan 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Lottie T 14/May/14 2nd dog
lukegorman ??/2014 Lead O/S
rd20 14/Aug/13 Lead dog

Slipped off whilst smearing on traverse at start

with Len
Huntlyfiddler 25/Jul/13 2nd
bpmclimb 25/Jul/13 Lead rpt

In two pitches. Awkward and difficult to protect first section.

with Clare
dready 04/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with surferstan
SurferStan 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 26/Jul/12 Lead
Mike_Hayes 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 10/Jul/12 2nd
matiamallia 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
flyinfrenchy 25/May/12 Lead O/S
with James McCann
hotfeet 08/Apr/12 Lead
with David Hammond, Mark MacDonald
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Blue68 08/Apr/12 2nd RP

Got my feet wrong on the traverse and fell, got it the second try, think HVS in Rockfax is right!

with David Hammond, Alan Mountford
annak 08/Apr/12 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/12 2nd
jchenoweth 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Espen
mattshort 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Phil Porter
aljezurusrf08 24/Mar/12 TR RP
with Willow
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd dog
Wendy Watthews 04/Mar/12 2nd

Direct start

arandall 04/Mar/12 Lead β

Direct start.

Wendy Watthews 03/Feb/12 2nd
arandall 03/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Went slightly the wrong way at the end but still did the crux.

gingerking ?/Feb/12 Lead rpt

direct start much more fun, almost makes it worth hvs

Hidden ??/2012 -
Dave192939 13/Nov/11 Lead rpt

Led in buffeting winds with hiking boots clipped on. Fun times! I'd give it HVS 5a.

with Simon Allan
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead
Ceridwen 24/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Uber Mike
mark_jee 14/Jul/11 TR
andybenham 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Backed off the direct and did the normal route. Both options are fairly bold. After that its a very pleasant climb to the top.

with Stann Norrie
Dave192939 26/May/11 2nd O/S
SamChessell 26/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/May/11 Lead O/S
leerybunny 16/May/11 Lead rpt

Repeated with the 5a direct start. Cracking

with Stan
James Mitchelmore 14/May/11 Lead O/S
SamChessell 12/May/11 2nd rpt
SamChessell 11/May/11 Lead rpt

Second time on the route, first time climbing it on lead. amazing route with a little bit of everything.

gingerking ?/May/11 Lead β
gingerking ?/May/11 Lead O/S
gingerking ?/May/11 2nd O/S
SamChessell 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
mbradberry2008 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
abicampbell 21/Apr/11 2nd dnf
DOVEY 21/Apr/11 Lead


with abi & Corlos
Dave89 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Laura
carlgodfrey 22/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Kim Middlebrook 06/Nov/10 -
andrea83 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Oh no, thought I'd got a HVS tick! Given HVS in Rockfax! Good route, really enjoyed.

Matt Fry 08/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Good effort from Andrea, especially in greasy conditions - HVS.

Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
berry 05/Aug/10 2nd
robroy ?/Aug/10 2nd
MoWalker3 16/Jul/10 -
nickstephens 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
1651SP 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with nick
haylow 14/Jun/10 2nd
tdudley 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jakenichol 14/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/10 2nd
redshapedfriday ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
JessicaBell ?/Jun/10 2nd
with Graham Hadaway
gg4419 ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/10 Lead
jchenoweth 02/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
james999 ??/2010 Lead O/S
JerryD ??/2010 -
1651SP 17/Dec/09 2nd
mbradberry2008 18/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Gareth Greeves
gg4419 ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Marti999 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Oddjob 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Direct Start.

Rowansb ??/2009 -
Huntlyfiddler 07/Aug/08 2nd
bpmclimb 07/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Bob M 29/May/08 Lead
Master Chief 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
leerybunny 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
Tim W 26/Jan/08 2nd O/S
midgelt 24/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Oli
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 16/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/04 Lead
bpmclimb 05/May/03 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 05/May/03 2nd
nickdonohue ??/2002 Lead
with Simon Reynolds
crater 08/Sep/95 TR
Ashley Hold 26/Aug/95 Solo
with Laurence North
Charles Arthur 15/Apr/95 2nd


colin milton 08/Apr/95 Lead
with eric milton
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 23
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set