85m.

Rockfax Description
The fine central offwidth provides a mighty struggle on an unsung Welsh gem.
1) 4a, 25m. 5m left of the lowest point of the buttress is a chimney. Follow this past a small ledge to gain a slabby groove on the right. Climb this and move left to belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the offwidth-crack which looms above and fight up it using the chockstones for protection and holds - a big cam might be useful but is a little unsporting. Belay at the top of the crack.
3) 4a, 25m. Move right to the rib and climb this until a stride left gains a square-cut groove. Follow this to a belay on easier ground. Scramble off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch - 1.3c 2.5a 3.3c 4.Scramble

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, Wales ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Colin Kirkus' routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 12 Aug AltLd O/S
lithos 20 Apr AltLd P2 the crack, which isn't really an offwidth and isn't really that hard but is intimidating as hell. Takes large 4/4.5 cams and has holds on the face. Looks like it was done this winter as well
P2 the crack, which isn't really an offwidth and isn't really that hard but is intimidating as hell. Takes large 4/4.5 cams and has holds on the face. Looks like it was done this winter as well
peterbradshaw101 20 Apr AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
sparkybatteryboy 28 Sep, 2018 Lead
Gabe Oliver 1 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S P2. Not an offwidth. Just steady jamming and loads of decent face holds. Super fun for a wet day out but lots of slippy rock on the top pitch
with Mike, boardbagged
P2. Not an offwidth. Just steady jamming and loads of decent face holds. Super fun for a wet day out but lots of slippy rock on the top pitch
with Mike, boardbagged
eduardo 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt Done before - with Rob Turner? ca 2007? Led P1, P3
with MD
Done before - with Rob Turner? ca 2007? Led P1, P3
with MD
MD 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p2, soft for 5a
with eduardo
Led p2, soft for 5a
with eduardo
Dafydd Llywelyn 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Had to head down after the second pitch.... Still, the crack was absorbing and more steady than it first seems.
with Hannah Bach
Had to head down after the second pitch.... Still, the crack was absorbing and more steady than it first seems.
with Hannah Bach
Josh Butler 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Just_Waltr 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
JPHOGAN 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Clove Hitch Brown 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with JPHOGAN
with JPHOGAN
Hidden 27 Jun, 2018 -
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with tl, jg
with tl, jg
deklan 29 Apr, 2018 Lead
Hidden 14 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
griff5800 13 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Pitch 2 not an off width as described unless you have tiny tiny hands. A perfect fist jam all the way up, No need for the choke stones. Left side jamming, right side on the face made for a really comfortable and smooth ascent even with a green crack. In the top 5 for best pitches climbed.
with Gaz Mitchell
Pitch 2 not an off width as described unless you have tiny tiny hands. A perfect fist jam all the way up, No need for the choke stones. Left side jamming, right side on the face made for a really comfortable and smooth ascent even with a green crack. In the top 5 for best pitches climbed.
with Gaz Mitchell
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Did my best to climb in style, as the book says. Avoided getting involved in the crack. Cams not as large as made out on here and in the book; I had 3.5 & 4 in DMM sizes and was fine. Maybe a 5 would go in but would barely be worth carrying it all the way up there.
with C May
Did my best to climb in style, as the book says. Avoided getting involved in the crack. Cams not as large as made out on here and in the book; I had 3.5 & 4 in DMM sizes and was fine. Maybe a 5 would go in but would barely be worth carrying it all the way up there.
with C May
Hidden 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Dan_Selby 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with BenSelby, Ian Selby
with BenSelby, Ian Selby
Hidden 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
JdotP 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Crazy Dave
with Crazy Dave
James Worthington 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd Second pitch. Used all the old looking tat to protect myself.
Second pitch. Used all the old looking tat to protect myself.
BarbsMurray 26 May, 2017 AltLd
pauldrew 26 May, 2017 AltLd
shamonster 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Excellent 2nd pitch. Solid VS
Excellent 2nd pitch. Solid VS
NickNixon 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S A brilliant crux, well protected, great moves. Thoroughly recommend.
with Henry Crosby
A brilliant crux, well protected, great moves. Thoroughly recommend.
with Henry Crosby
robgixer ?Jan, 2017 Lead
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
CharleyAnn ?Jan, 2017 2nd
robgixer ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Craigyboy13 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Delyth
with Delyth
Hidden 30 May, 2016 AltLd
Dale Finnie 29 May, 2016 AltLd
Tim Harper 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Jack Poyner
with Jack Poyner
Jkpoyner ?May, 2016 AltLd O/S
willoates ??, 2016 - With Lawrence ages ago. Quite stiff VS
With Lawrence ages ago. Quite stiff VS
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 -
Andrew Lester 10 Aug, 2015 Lead
Hidden 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd
The Potato 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
scott titt 6 Jun, 2015 -
brian watson 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
tim_mcd 27 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Manchi
with Manchi
Martin1973 5 Aug, 2014 2nd
mikelaing ?Aug, 2014 Lead
with Martin Corfield
with Martin Corfield
five 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with ALA
with ALA
Mark Eddy 18 Jun, 2014 Lead Brilliant day out. Esoteric and all the better for it. No one else on the crag, 2 others in the cwm, they were swimming in the Llyn
with Colin
Brilliant day out. Esoteric and all the better for it. No one else on the crag, 2 others in the cwm, they were swimming in the Llyn
with Colin
ads 15 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Julie
with Julie
Andrew Lester 5 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 5 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
Maia 5 May, 2014 AltLd O/S led 3rd pitch, high winds made climb more exciting..
led 3rd pitch, high winds made climb more exciting..
MYox 5 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Led second pitch in a gale. The highlight of the day was running down to the car.
Led second pitch in a gale. The highlight of the day was running down to the car.
Julian Prieto 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1 & 3
Led P1 & 3
Monkey_Alan 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2. Not as thrutchy as you might think. Lovely little secluded crag.
Led P2. Not as thrutchy as you might think. Lovely little secluded crag.
tlmarjot 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd
with Ben Anderson
with Ben Anderson
Ben1983 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Will Sheaff 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog Led crux pitch
with Amy Illingworth
Led crux pitch
with Amy Illingworth
Deltona 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Thoroughly enjoyable P2 a bit of a test, led P3 deserves a 5a, a cracking route on superb rock with fantastic friction. Walk in over an hour:(
Thoroughly enjoyable P2 a bit of a test, led P3 deserves a 5a, a cracking route on superb rock with fantastic friction. Walk in over an hour:(
anyes varenne 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S led P1 and bit of P2 up to ledge before crack Kim led rest of P2 led P3 scramble P4 superbe sunny day!
led P1 and bit of P2 up to ledge before crack Kim led rest of P2 led P3 scramble P4 superbe sunny day!
kim.mulji 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Partner led pitch one, and pitch two up to the crack (by mistake - she hadn't had enough climbing!). Better to belay on large grass ledge really! Off-width is fairly straight-forward, though do take some very bigs cams if you have them, and be prepared to thread a narrow chock-stone with a sling, which can be easily had by throwing a carabiner over it, whilst attached to the sling, and catching it on the bottom! Rest of climb is lovely, though gear can be a bit spaced!
Partner led pitch one, and pitch two up to the crack (by mistake - she hadn't had enough climbing!). Better to belay on large grass ledge really! Off-width is fairly straight-forward, though do take some very bigs cams if you have them, and be prepared to thread a narrow chock-stone with a sling, which can be easily had by throwing a carabiner over it, whilst attached to the sling, and catching it on the bottom! Rest of climb is lovely, though gear can be a bit spaced!
PAJames ??, 2013 -
PAJames ??, 2013 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
JasonV 1 Sep, 2012 Lead The off width crack is hard - big cams would help
with Alun
The off width crack is hard - big cams would help
with Alun
martin c 28 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S With Chris Hughes. Tough crack if no big friend available.
With Chris Hughes. Tough crack if no big friend available.
Hidden 10 Aug, 2012 Lead
Ollie B 29 May, 2012 AltLd O/S P2
with K.Bromfield
P2
with K.Bromfield
BenRyle 28 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
lcullum7 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Led crux P2 which is much less intimidating than it looks from below, but probably warrants 5a
Led crux P2 which is much less intimidating than it looks from below, but probably warrants 5a
SarahA 26 May, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Lotte Stuer 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd spicy second chimney pitch! Lead first and third pitch.
spicy second chimney pitch! Lead first and third pitch.
seb m-c 14 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Andy Hall
with Andy Hall
JWB 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Ian pitches 1 and 3. Me pitch 2. What a great route and location, nobody else around and no polish on avery busy weekend in Snowdonia. The off width crack was great fun and I set up a belay to watch my 2nd struggle but he cruised up it. Shame as I was wanting a laugh! Pity about all the crampon scratchs on the crag.
Ian pitches 1 and 3. Me pitch 2. What a great route and location, nobody else around and no polish on avery busy weekend in Snowdonia. The off width crack was great fun and I set up a belay to watch my 2nd struggle but he cruised up it. Shame as I was wanting a laugh! Pity about all the crampon scratchs on the crag.
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 18 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Ashley Hold 18 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt
with torquil
with torquil
The_Boy_ODwyer 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S lead easy pitches
with Colin Harvey
lead easy pitches
with Colin Harvey
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 7 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
with AO
with AO
Clivest 8 Sep, 2010 2nd
Ewan Russell 8 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Clivest
with Clivest
Hidden 21 Aug, 2010 -
bob johnson 19 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S great venue - challenging route - once again mr kirkus proves his quality
with Rich Ball
great venue - challenging route - once again mr kirkus proves his quality
with Rich Ball
Andy Clarke 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Worth the long walk in for a classic jamming pitch. Led Ps 2 & 4.
with Ralph
Worth the long walk in for a classic jamming pitch. Led Ps 2 & 4.
with Ralph
Roger Cruse 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Kris
with Kris
stuart34 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Jess Christley
with Jess Christley
Jess Christley 19 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Stuart Inchley
with Stuart Inchley
Jillybean 31 May, 2010 AltLd
with Noodles
with Noodles
Bennykr 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S good route on a remote crag, was a good few days
good route on a remote crag, was a good few days
Noodles 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2, a great little route with no polish.
Led P2, a great little route with no polish.
sthame 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
adam06 17 May, 2010 AltLd didnt think it was as good as people are saying. 2nd pitch is 2 star, but the rest is not worth any. So felt more like 1 star overall and the walk in was defo more than an hour as it took us an hour to walk back down!
with cosreba
didnt think it was as good as people are saying. 2nd pitch is 2 star, but the rest is not worth any. So felt more like 1 star overall and the walk in was defo more than an hour as it took us an hour to walk back down!
with cosreba
chrisallan 16 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 15 Sep, 2009 AltLd Led P2 (offwidth)
Led P2 (offwidth)
Hidden 24 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
whiting.jp 24 May, 2009 AltLd
with jamesca
with jamesca
SGD 18 Apr, 2009 AltLd I did p2, it was great fun....not sure about the 5a though felt soft touch??
with Andy T WMC
I did p2, it was great fun....not sure about the 5a though felt soft touch??
with Andy T WMC
MarkFoster ??, 2009 -
PanzerHanzler 20 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S The crack was surprisingly technical - no mad thructhing required. Real (hidden) gem of a climb.
with Matt
The crack was surprisingly technical - no mad thructhing required. Real (hidden) gem of a climb.
with Matt
Karlos 5 May, 2008 Lead O/S The wide corner crack that makes up the second pitch is a toughy. No finesse, no technique, just jam yourself in there and start grunting upwards. The chokestone at mid height is reachable, despite how it appears.
with Daniela, Ben
The wide corner crack that makes up the second pitch is a toughy. No finesse, no technique, just jam yourself in there and start grunting upwards. The chokestone at mid height is reachable, despite how it appears.
with Daniela, Ben
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Justin T 12 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
with TeaGirl
with TeaGirl
Hidden 19 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 15 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Paul
with Paul
jamieevans ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead
maria85 16 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Jon
with Jon
intersection996 16 Apr, 2006 Lead
with Migi
with Migi
Hidden ?Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
ruaidh 12 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
with FayeG
with FayeG
caradoc 22 Mar, 2003 AltLd O/S
with MikeW
with MikeW
Paz ?Oct, 2001 Lead O/S
with SL
with SL
Hidden 9 Aug, 1997 AltLd
Rob Davies ?Apr, 1997 AltLd Now VS 5a, due to pig of a crack - Severe in Ron James!
Now VS 5a, due to pig of a crack - Severe in Ron James!
Hidden 6 May, 1995 AltLd
nigehughes ?Nov, 1989 Lead
with Chris Hall
with Chris Hall
mikej 19 Jul, 1983 Lead
with Tony Waite
with Tony Waite
Bob M ?Dec, 1977 AltLd
with Mark Redman
with Mark Redman
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set