85m.

Rockfax Description
The fine central offwidth provides a mighty struggle on an unsung Welsh gem.
1) 4a, 25m. 5m left of the lowest point of the buttress is a chimney. Follow this past a small ledge to gain a slabby groove on the right. Climb this and move left to belay on a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the offwidth-crack which looms above and fight up it using the chockstones for protection and holds - a big cam might be useful but is a little unsporting. Belay at the top of the crack.
3) 4a, 25m. Move right to the rib and climb this until a stride left gains a square-cut groove. Follow this to a belay on easier ground. Scramble off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch - 1.3c 2.5a 3.3c 4.Scramble

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, Classic Chimney - England and Wales, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
shamonster 08/Apr Lead O/S

Excellent 2nd pitch. Solid VS

NickNixon 08/Apr Lead O/S

A brilliant crux, well protected, great moves. Thoroughly recommend.

with Henry Crosby
Hidden 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Craigyboy13 30/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Delyth
spacecadet10 30/May/16 AltLd

Lead crux

Dale Finnie 29/May/16 AltLd
Tim Harper 28/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Jack Poyner
Jkpoyner ?/May/16 AltLd O/S
willoates ??/2016 -

With Lawrence ages ago. Quite stiff VS

Hidden 06/Sep/15 -
Andrew Lester 10/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/15 AltLd
The Potato 10/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/15 -
brian watson 06/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tim_mcd 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Manchi
Martin1973 05/Aug/14 2nd
mikelaing ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Martin Corfield
Mark Eddy 18/Jun/14 Lead

Brilliant day out. Esoteric and all the better for it. No one else on the crag, 2 others in the cwm, they were swimming in the Llyn

with Colin
ads 15/Jun/14 AltLd
with Julie
Andrew Lester 05/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
MYox 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch in a gale. The highlight of the day was running down to the car.

with Jon, Maia
Julian Prieto 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3

Monkey_Alan 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Not as thrutchy as you might think. Lovely little secluded crag.

tlmarjot 18/Apr/14 AltLd
with Ben Anderson
Ben1983 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Will Sheaff 07/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Led crux pitch

with Amy Illingworth
Deltona 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Thoroughly enjoyable P2 a bit of a test, led P3 deserves a 5a, a cracking route on superb rock with fantastic friction. Walk in over an hour:(

anyes varenne 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

led P1 and bit of P2 up to ledge before crack Kim led rest of P2 led P3 scramble P4 superbe sunny day!

kim.mulji 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Partner led pitch one, and pitch two up to the crack (by mistake - she hadn't had enough climbing!). Better to belay on large grass ledge really! Off-width is fairly straight-forward, though do take some very bigs cams if you have them, and be prepared to thread a narrow chock-stone with a sling, which can be easily had by throwing a carabiner over it, whilst attached to the sling, and catching it on the bottom! Rest of climb is lovely, though gear can be a bit spaced!

PAJames ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
JasonV 01/Sep/12 Lead

The off width crack is hard - big cams would help

with Alun
martin c 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

With Chris Hughes. Tough crack if no big friend available.

Hidden 10/Aug/12 Lead
Ollie B 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

P2

with K.Bromfield
BenRyle 28/May/12 AltLd O/S
lcullum7 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led crux P2 which is much less intimidating than it looks from below, but probably warrants 5a

SarahA 26/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Lotte Stuer 24/Jul/11 AltLd

spicy second chimney pitch! Lead first and third pitch.

with Will
seb m-c 14/Jul/11 2nd
with Andy Hall
JWB 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Ian pitches 1 and 3. Me pitch 2. What a great route and location, nobody else around and no polish on avery busy weekend in Snowdonia. The off width crack was great fun and I set up a belay to watch my 2nd struggle but he cruised up it. Shame as I was wanting a laugh! Pity about all the crampon scratchs on the crag.

Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 18/Apr/11 AltLd
Ashley Hold 18/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
The_Boy_ODwyer 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead easy pitches

with Colin Harvey
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 07/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with AO
Clivest 08/Sep/10 2nd
Ewan Russell 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Clive
Hidden 21/Aug/10 -
bob johnson 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

great venue - challenging route - once again mr kirkus proves his quality

with Rich Ball
Andy Clarke 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Worth the long walk in for a classic jamming pitch. Led Ps 2 & 4.

with Ralph
Roger Cruse 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Kris
stuart34 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Jess Christley
Jess Christley 19/Jun/10 2nd
with Stuart Inchley
Jillybean 31/May/10 AltLd
with Martyn
Bennykr 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

good route on a remote crag, was a good few days

Noodles 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2, a great little route with no polish.

sthame 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
adam06 17/May/10 AltLd

didnt think it was as good as people are saying. 2nd pitch is 2 star, but the rest is not worth any. So felt more like 1 star overall and the walk in was defo more than an hour as it took us an hour to walk back down!

chrisallan 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 15/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P2 (offwidth)

Hidden 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
whiting.jp 24/May/09 AltLd
with jamesca
SGD 18/Apr/09 AltLd

I did p2, it was great fun....not sure about the 5a though felt soft touch??

with Andy T WMC
MarkFoster ??/2009 -
PanzerHanzler 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

The crack was surprisingly technical - no mad thructhing required. Real (hidden) gem of a climb.

with Matt
Karlos 05/May/08 Lead O/S

The wide corner crack that makes up the second pitch is a toughy. No finesse, no technique, just jam yourself in there and start grunting upwards. The chokestone at mid height is reachable, despite how it appears.

with Daniela, Ben
Justin T 12/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Wifey
Hidden 19/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Paul
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
maria85 16/Jul/06 AltLd
with Jon
intersection996 16/Apr/06 Lead
with Migi
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
ruaidh 12/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with FayeG
iskra2000 09/Aug/97 AltLd
with John Dale
Rob Davies ?/Apr/97 AltLd

Now VS 5a, due to pig of a crack - Severe in Ron James!

Hidden 06/May/95 AltLd
nigehughes ?/Nov/89 Lead
with Chris Hall
mikej 19/Jul/83 Lead
with Tony Waite
Bob M ?/Dec/77 AltLd
with Mark Redman
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 21
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set