Rockfax Description
A good route that follows the crackline out from the left-hand side of the tunnel mouth. Start just left of the tunnel and move up and right to gain the crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists: a State of Slate, North Wales E Breakthrough, 30 E-grades for my 30th birthday.

Colin Scotchford 14/Jul Lead
GeorgeHH 04/Jul Lead O/S

Elbowed my way up this with a bad wrist. Good climbing that teaches you the meaning of creaky in a guide book description.

with tunnah
tunnah 04/Jul 2nd O/S
Glyn Davidson 09/May Lead rpt

Felt much harder than last time I did it (8 years ago!) I seem to remember it being soft. Don't know if it's changed much but the gear felt thin mid way.

with Dan
Dan77 09/May Lead O/S
Steve Wootton 26/Mar Lead dog
scarmichael 26/Mar Lead

Lead on steves gear, absolutely brilliant route, 3 stars in my book, will def jump back on it when in the area!

with Steve Wooton
Mark Reeves 15/Mar 2nd
JenShelley 13/Nov/16 Lead β
Mike Hewitt 13/Nov/16 Lead dog
foostu4 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
stephheeley 29/Oct/16 2nd
suds_01 10/Sep/16 2nd
dobby 200 10/Sep/16 Lead dnf
DaveThexton 22/May/16 Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 22/May/16 2nd

Bit loose, wouldn't give it any stars myself

whiteexplorer 12/May/16 2nd O/S
with joe
dready 12/May/16 Lead O/S
omaskrey 15/Apr/16 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 15/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 15/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Luke
Gabe Oliver 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Really worthwhile, if a little friable. Needs more traffic

George Killaspy 10/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Butel 10/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Steve Long ??/2016 -
will_lake 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Richardlake 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Pete_Frost 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Character building. Take small to medium wires and super-glue. Not recommended for small children and those of a nervous disposition.

with Phil Creed
Hidden 06/Aug/15 2nd dnf
KeenClimber 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Ian Dugdale
BarbsMurray 04/Jul/15 2nd
with Mikey
shaunhumphreys 06/Jun/15 Lead β
franhammond92 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Top route, brilliant climbing and gear. Lead it, abbed and stripped it then seconded Shaun on it. Great exposure over the big hole.

Scott Quinn 16/May/15 2nd O/S
Tom.Priestley 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice, size 2 (yellow) C4 is useful.

max_dickens 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Bows gear

with Bow
James Beaumont 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

found this very scary,just seemed to get spooked and the holds were snapping off and loose!

with chris Lyness
harold walmsley 24/Jan/15 2nd rpt

Attempted warmup on a cold-ish breezy day. Didn't work

with Mark Hounslea
ipegg 18/Oct/14 2nd
Martin Bagshaw 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
jon22 17/Aug/14 Lead
with Dave Holland
harold walmsley 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

A bit of trad to finish off after Smaug. Nice to find an E1 easy. First time in a while so it must be soft.

with Rob Davies
Rob Davies 24/Jun/14 Lead rpt

A lot less friable than 20 years ago - HVS 5a

Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Maynard 23/May/14 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S
jezb1 16/Aug/13 Lead

Bit snappy... Found quite tricky cos I wasn't trusting the holds

Hidden 16/Aug/13 2nd
tim newton 14/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Tim
morgan91 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Laurence Cowton 26/Jun/13 2nd

Several loose holds.

with Ed
wolf.leeb 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Alexis
ksjs 17/May/13 2nd O/S

Not the classic I was expecting - rock just not very good but if you're up for that sort of thing then it's fine. Good gear though I didn't lead this so don't know how it actually feels.

with Rhys
Hidden 13/Mar/13 -
jezb1 13/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Fell off when a hold snapped and sliced my finger :(

tim20 ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
Hidden 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 25/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Alison Ellwood, Gareth Uglow
fizzychewitt 14/Oct/12 2nd
with Phil
useful 14/Oct/12 2nd

Phil Lead, I half-seconded, Liz cleaned the remaining gear.

with Phil B, Liz
groliver26 07/Sep/12 2nd
jon_ridley 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Tomos Davies 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Kevin Robert Jones 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
highclimber 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S

A very nice route with a quite bold start and loose holds. Worth the stars

guy757 10/Jun/12 -
Lenny 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with John
Luke Brooks 13/May/12 Lead
with Liam
Rob Gillespie ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
mynyddresident 07/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Good, bits creaky.

with gareth
Rachel Slater 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Andy Hall
centurion05 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S

very average route. one star, HVS 5a

with Calum
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Interesting moves interspersed with good gear and rests. Really good.

Cardi 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Clare D
Ed morris 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with stefan
caradoc 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S

placements seemed to be good but I never felt completely confident in them

with nick yapp
Blurgy319 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
HIGHTOWER 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Great route.

Hidden 30/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with jason
HIGHTOWER 12/May/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Evans ??/2011 Lead
Tomprusk 07/Jul/10 2nd rpt

Easy HVS if you trust those small footholds... always going for a good hold though. Best HVS in the quarries!

with Dan
dan-8990 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with TP
david morse 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S

worth a visit

with Lawrence
owain86 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S

nice route, little bit loose in places HVS/E1?

with Fraser
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd
Alex Mason 29/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Went for a walk around day before in the wet and saw this striking crack line. Did it today and found you barely climb the crack but the moves are wicked and its well worth doing. Best HVS on slate.

with Laura Perry
Ows ?/Nov/09 2nd
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead
DavidR 25/Apr/09 2nd rpt
SGD 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S

This is was really good, it's go some moves on it. I think it's harder than Seamstress....take lots of small nuts

with Jane WMC
Welshy 10/Apr/09 2nd
Glyn Davidson 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S

lovely climbing, much easier than it looks from the ground

barni 08/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Apr/09 2nd
Renegade_Pony 08/Apr/09 2nd
with barni
Hidden 06/Mar/09 Lead
ritchierich 06/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Wyn Price
Hidden 15/Dec/08 Lead O/S
ritchierich 15/Dec/08 2nd O/S

Nice climb but two wobbly block on the route to be aware of.

barni 06/Oct/08 Lead
with james hayward
Ian Andrews 14/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 23/Aug/08 Lead

Went a bit off route at the bulge. Good route, only slightly let down by presence of suspect rock.

with Andy Hobson
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 2nd
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead rpt
spacey 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Paul Evans 10/Feb/08 Lead
with spacey
Hidden 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
alexyoung 06/Oct/07 TR O/S
with Steak
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/07 Lead rpt
michael burrows 28/Jul/07 2nd
barni 06/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Paul James
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
fran04 ??/2007 Lead
with ian rowell
Rob Davies 03/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with Phil Ashton
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/06 Lead
Suzie Wilson ??/2006 2nd
with pete
Dringo ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 20/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
DavidR 18/Nov/02 Lead O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Brown ?/Aug/02 Lead
TobyA 31/Oct/00 Lead O/S

Glad I did this when it was HVS. Would have been too scared to have done an E1!

with Kieran
MjrTom ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
petekeron ??/1999 Lead O/S
WB 27/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
with Nicola
Paul Boardman ??/1998 Lead rpt
with Iain Boardman
Hidden 20/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/95 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Aug/93 Lead

Also Caroline

with Angus McLean
Ched 16/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
whispering nic ??/1991 Lead
with noj
chrisdavies ??/1991 Lead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/88 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/87 Lead
28 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 42
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set