The open groove 3m Right of Lion is very low in the grade and has some nice intricate climbing. Tackle it direct past a rest ledge on the left. Take LOTS of small wires and little else. Use holds on the Right wall to assist the exit up a shallower groove.

R. Wallace, A. Wallace 12/Oct/2003

Ticklists: Central Belt - Local Classics.

Hidden 09/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Jun Lead O/S
Gordon Lacey 03/May Lead O/S
with Alan Dow
olekemi 02/May 2nd rpt
with Robin W, Jeremy M
calumhicks 27/Apr Lead O/S

Maybe I'm just not cut out for central belt dolerite, but I thought it was a crap route. Covered in thorns, nettles and dusty mud. The climbing itself was ok, but the top-out involved pulling on grass, mud and a tree.

Colin Dyer 27/Apr Lead

Good sustained, technical climbing. Protection is all small wires or micro cams. Very enjoyable.

Liam Watson 02/Apr Lead RP
with Miina
Hidden 01/Apr Lead
SarahA 01/Apr 2nd dog

Stephen lead, crux at top is pretty desperate and needed a few goes!! We deliberately pulled off some loose blocks at the bottom.

Conor Nally 25/Mar 2nd
with Jack, Oliver Smaje
Pete96 ??/2017 2nd
Sam Mills 27/Nov/16 2nd O/S
Oliver Smaje 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Sam
liamando 02/Nov/16 2nd
with Ted Collins
olekemi 30/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Mark G, Jeremy M
Liam Watson 14/Aug/16 Lead dog

Took a fall trying to get into the groove, quite annoyed as got it easily on second attempt. Definitely need small wires.

with Appleby
Hidden 14/Aug/16 2nd
S_Dunn 23/Jul/16 2nd β
with Clement, Josh
Nicholas Wylie 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Bron 21/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Dave
Hidden 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/16 2nd
smollett 08/Jun/16 Lead

Good route. Needs more traffic. Some wood from the top removed most of my gear but thankfully I was up by then

with Lucy
george5699 10/May/16 Lead dog

Rested on gear just before top out - clean next time!

dmacmorris 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S

After watching Kevin smooth lead couldn't wait to get on. Hidden gem.

Kevin Woods 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A really fantastic route.

Brian Pollock 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Techy and reachy with plenty of gear. Crux felt 5c. Probably soft for the tall but felt fair at E2 to me.

with Joe
Pina 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Soloed the first 2m in trainers to give the leader more rope to build a belay. Definitely easier for the tall this one.

mishabruml 13/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Topout of your dreams...

with Laura Martin
DavidMcK 11/Aug/15 Lead β

Had some beta from Hugh, easiest E2 going but a fun climb

Hugh Simons 11/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Seconded last year but couldn't remember any of the moves, other than that you need to bridge! Took a while to get off the ground but steady after that. Good route.

libby.southgate 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Euan Richardson, Euan Strachan
Hidden 22/Jun/15 2nd
JosefGoeth 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
bduffin 11/Jun/15 2nd
IggyGoesPop 04/Jun/15 Lead dog

Fell basically to the bottom so kinda as if done clean with preplaced gear 2 meters up :D

EBailey 30/May/15 2nd
Timothy Miller 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Euan Todd 24/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Richard
ferdia 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 24/Jun/14 2nd
with Ferdia
Hugh Simons 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Euan Todd 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great line, well protected with interesting moves.

olekemi 27/May/14 2nd O/S
with Robin W
Macleod 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ian Rickerby
Richard Abel ??/2014 -
John McKenna 01/Oct/13 Lead β
Martin McKenna - UKC 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really nice route.

Brendan 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Really good route: great line, interesting moves and surprisingly well protected if you take enough small wires. Recommend giving it a brush before leading though.

with Del
james1978 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Andy Hewison 11/Jul/13 2nd dnf

Got stuck on crux fairly low down, hold on left broke off in my hand! Need to come back for another try. Neale made it look easy. Needs more traffic.

with Neale
gurumed 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with gjd
gjd 21/May/13 2nd rpt
with Gurumed
tom.e 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Danny
Dougie Harvey 25/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Alasdair Fulton 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Nice, a couple more holds fell off and the start is a bramble-whack!

with Dougie
Wicamoi 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Nice route, but the rock is flakey and suspect, and I've had a bellyful of dodgy dolerite recently. The gear's fine so long as the rock holds; if you believe it will then it's fairly easy for the grade. Daf, clearly on form, seconded with greater ease than I had anticipated.

with Daf
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd
Chad123 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Much better and much easier than it looks, nice sustained groove with a cool finish. Easy for grade but just about worth E2 as pretty technical. Two stars.

with Emily
timcussins 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ghr
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead
Dougie Harvey 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Mhairi G 20/Jun/11 2nd
with Patrick
Pat-H 20/Jun/11 Lead
with mhairi
cat22 14/May/11 2nd O/S

Holds are a bit snappy, and probably more stuff waiting to come off.

with Mike
GraMc 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Euan Strachan 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MarcusP 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Paul, Libby
libby.southgate ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Smelly Fox 24/Mar/11 Lead G/U

Took a ground-fall from the top of this a couple of years back when a hold snapped!

with Heather Fox
sebrider 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Topher
Dr Toph 20/Feb/11 2nd rpt

Has definitely benefited from a bit of traffic. Pretty clean now.

with Seb
KeithAlexander 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
karinh 02/Sep/10 2nd β

Keith led.

Ross Barnes 17/Aug/10 Lead
with Neil A
Ian Jones 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Neat climbing. Difficult to pinpoint a 5c move anywhere.

Hidden 03/Aug/10 2nd
gjd 25/May/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing. Each time it feels desperate new holds come to light.

with Mark Davison
jonnie3430 29/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Euan
Neil Adams 28/Mar/10 Lead β
with Fiend
pete87abs 20/Mar/10 2nd β
dj_brigham05 20/Mar/10 Lead O/S
salix ??/2010 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 15/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Needed a bit of bushwhacking at the start, and had to clean the mud out of the top crack with my nutkey to get gear. But the climbing itself is really fun and flowing. Just needs more traffic.

with Euan, Ed
Euan Strachan 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Tropher, Henward
Hidden 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd
Lawrie Brand 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Nice technical bridging route, more traffic would sort out the loose rock at top.

Dougie Harvey 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Barrow
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High E3
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High E1
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High 6a
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High 5b
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Votes cast 29
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
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