Rockfax Description
An extremely bold and memorable outing up a vague line of scoops that link Last Tango in Paris and Comes the Dervish. From Last Tango..., make moves up to a diagonal crack and the last good gear until Comes the Dervish, move on up the scoops to a poor sideways wire placement. Then make very nervy moves to a good ledge just short of Comes the Dervish, before reaching the crack with a massive sigh of relief. Finish up Comes the Dervish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Bold Slate routes, slate E5's, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 26/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Feb/17 2nd O/S
Flavio 05/Feb/17 Lead O/S

BOLD. A bit moist from recent rain but I dried it as I went along. Had the biggest calf-burn ever after Gin Palace and even placed some comedy sky-hooks which obviously fell out. *** route, in Feb, who said trad had a "season"? Must buy bluetack...

spalice 10/Oct/16 Lead RP

Headpointed the hell out of the gear on a top rope! Wasn't so sure of the moves but definitely glad to pull them off!

Alasdair Fulton 25/May/16 2nd
anguskille 25/May/16 Lead O/S

psyched, exciting stuff! maybe should have brought skyhooks

andyinglis 25/May/16 Lead β

Saw holds close to the dervish while ab'ing down so no o/s. Didn't try and place the crucial micro so still felt like an e5 experience...... Certainly focused the mind.

james.slater 03/Apr/16 Lead RP

Abbed to check that the crucial offset placement was still useable and flashed all the climbing. Exciting on the runout with some light rain falling! Very cool route.

Hamish2322 ?/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2016 -
masa-alpin 28/Oct/15 2nd dog

1 fall, when I messed up the sequence.

with Scott G
Hidden 28/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
jacob shieldhouse hadley 04/Jun/15 Lead dnf

very sweaty in 20c, slipped of half way up. so pissed off!

with dad
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead
wolf.leeb 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Finally.. Rp4 placement is shagged, decent offset Rp1 though (Yay!).. Awsome climbing.. Found the warm polish of dervish worse than the runout.

with Alexis
Somerset swede basher 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Offshore Andy (from bamford)
Andy Peak 1 03/Sep/14 2nd

Fell of just after the rp rushed the move and off i came, will lead next time.

Ed morris 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

The RP4 slot is useless, tiny RP1 just below and iffy skyhook above. A great questy route but won't be rushing back to repeat it.

with Jerry Handren
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
akhughes 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Smithy
wolf.leeb 28/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Got too dark.. down climbed awkwardly.

with Alexis
Keendan 04/Jul/13 Lead β

Soft 6a, good footholds for a slate slab. The climbing eases nicely when it gets very run-out. Still serious though. Led with Matt's gear in the Dervish.

Ramon Marin 30/Jun/13 2nd β

Scary to belay Tom on it, got mega de-psyched for hard slate

with Tom le fanu
Dangerous Dave 22/May/13 Lead dnf

Too scary!!

dan ely 13/Jun/12 Lead dnf

first time on a e5. nearly got to finishing jug before the dervish but was so scaired i lowered of a skyhook

with dan
Alex.M-M. 01/Jun/12 2nd dnf

Stopped just before joining Dervish as I want the onsight of Dervish.

Owain Llewelyn 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
Luke Brooks 11/May/12 2nd rpt
with Murdo, willoates
cballard ??/2012 -
willoates 16/Nov/11 Lead β

On pre placed RPs, probably made it a fair bit easier. Reallh cool route, hard to give it three stars though when it is right next to the Dervish.

Hidden 16/Nov/11 2nd
chris sm 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 01/Aug/11 Lead β

Checked the top RP crack on the rap. Climbed it onsight.

with grady
centurion05 26/Feb/11 Lead β

pretty cold, couldn't feel fingers or feet whilst on crux.

with dave g
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Luke Brooks 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ewan, barni
barni 27/Oct/10 2nd
nige 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
benchwarmer 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Owen Barnicott, Justin Hughes
barni 05/Sep/10 Lead β

look at the rp placment when of abing off another route

centurion05 18/Aug/10 Lead β
HIGHTOWER 18/Aug/10 2nd dog
samrad 10/Jun/10 Lead dnf

my foot poped part way up the runout. i went skiddin down the slab and the last peice ripped (not surprising really)! :(

with james G
farmus21 10/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing. Steady the whole way but still had to fight with my head and keep going. Ruddy Chuffed.

with Sam Radcliffe
Duncan Campbell 11/May/10 Lead dnf

fell just above the second piece of gear (medium wire) as I lost balance! Will definately be back for it!

with TRip
TomPR ?/Apr/10 -
hervenuttall ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Mikey
Mike Goldthorp 08/Nov/09 Lead O/S
dodfoster 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with sam farnsworth
smallerrich 22/Aug/09 Lead β

Abseil inspection of gear a while ago, then again before climbing.

Hidden 27/Jul/09 Lead β
JulesV 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Small gear, exellent climbing.

with Will Boxen
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
IOAN D 04/May/08 Lead O/S

very soft for grade

with katy
alaan 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Somewhat gripping!

with Grant
Alex Mason 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S

3rd E5. Couldnt climb slate at all but though f*ck it! held it together really well. Rp i reckon is totally worthless, i pushed it in with my thumb!! good climbing though, i think its just about safe!

Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mgeek 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Jonny stocking
Toby Dunn 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead β
jeffmcd56 ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Apr/06 Lead rpt

Nice climb, but don't fall off... you'd regret it...

Dringo ??/2006 -
Gus 14/Jun/05 Lead O/S
pete johnson 24/Jul/04 Lead
with Lun
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??/1996 2nd
sheppy 12/Jul/95 2nd
with IceBun
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
Derek Ryden ?/Aug/92 TR O/S
with Paul Twomey
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 2nd O/S

Trying out my recently busted ankle

PaulHermes ??/1992 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1992 TR
with Paul Kallmes
mark-abz 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy W
jfletcher 16/Sep/90 Lead β

Ground-up on sight, 2nd visit after reversing and lowering from RP4 on 1st attempt.

with Tim Newton
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S

Led with hangover. Something of a rite of passage, including the walk into gear shop in Llanberis to buy an RP 4 (which wasn't as good as I had hoped)

with Jim Waddington
phardman 17/Jun/89 2nd O/S
with Simon Marsh
Billg ??/1989 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??/1989 Lead O/S
with peter hadfield
NickHarms ??/1989 -
Neil McA 12/Jun/88 2nd O/S
with Dave Green
keefe ??/1988 -
tonykay ??/1988 -
Steve Walker ??/1988 Lead
with jason cain
sadams 25/Oct/87 Lead
with LUMC Fresher's Meet
Hidden 07/Sep/87 TR
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/87 2nd

Took a big swing when swapping feet just short of the Dervish jugs, my 'Fires' were a little loose fitting! Reclimbed it clean.

with Frank Richards
Enty ??/1987 -
with A Gudgeon
Nick Biven ??/1987 TR
jon ?/Oct/86 Lead
with Mark Charlton
Mike Owen 01/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ?/Jul/85 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Melok ??/1984 -
23 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set