Rockfax Description
An extremely bold and memorable outing up a vague line of scoops that link Last Tango in Paris and Comes the Dervish. From Last Tango in Paris, make moves up to a diagonal crack and the last good gear until Comes the Dervish. Move on up the scoops to a poor sideways wire placement, then make very nervy moves to a good ledge just short of Comes the Dervish, before reaching the crack with a massive sigh of relief. Finish up Comes the Dervish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Bold Slate routes, slate E5's, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Archie ball 13 Sep Lead O/S Dreamy route
Dreamy route
JamesWilliams 4 May Lead dnf climbed up to just below the rp slot but was getting way too warm for thin bold climbing so down climbed to save it for another day.
with Statement of Youth
climbed up to just below the rp slot but was getting way too warm for thin bold climbing so down climbed to save it for another day.
with Statement of Youth
Owen Davies 4 May Lead β simply superb. I've been dreaming of this route for soooo long. words cannot describe. beautiful climbing. so in the moment to realise the runout though. Sideways size 1 nut, didn't bother with shagged RP
with James Williams, Archie Ball
simply superb. I've been dreaming of this route for soooo long. words cannot describe. beautiful climbing. so in the moment to realise the runout though. Sideways size 1 nut, didn't bother with shagged RP
with James Williams, Archie Ball
BRoe 8 Apr Lead O/S
with Anna
with Anna
Lewis Perrin Williams 20 Mar Lead rpt Quick climb after college.
with Megan Bown, Oscar Peplow
Quick climb after college.
with Megan Bown, Oscar Peplow
llanberis36 ?? -
Lewis Perrin Williams 30 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Brilliant!! So glad I got on this, didn't get any worthwile gear in the vertical seam near the crux.
with Oscar Peplow
Brilliant!! So glad I got on this, didn't get any worthwile gear in the vertical seam near the crux.
with Oscar Peplow
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 26 Apr, 2017 Lead
JendeHoxar 5 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 5 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S A route you only do once.. A bit moist from recent rain but I dried it as I went along. Had the biggest calf-burn ever after Gin Palace and even placed some comedy sky-hooks which obviously fell out. *** route, in Feb, who said trad had a "season"? Must buy bluetack...
A route you only do once.. A bit moist from recent rain but I dried it as I went along. Had the biggest calf-burn ever after Gin Palace and even placed some comedy sky-hooks which obviously fell out. *** route, in Feb, who said trad had a "season"? Must buy bluetack...
Stoop324 ??, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 10 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
Alasdair Fulton 25 May, 2016 2nd
Hidden 25 May, 2016 Lead O/S
andyinglis 25 May, 2016 Lead β Saw holds close to the dervish while ab'ing down so no o/s. Didn't try and place the crucial micro so still felt like an e5 experience...... Certainly focused the mind.
Saw holds close to the dervish while ab'ing down so no o/s. Didn't try and place the crucial micro so still felt like an e5 experience...... Certainly focused the mind.
james.slater 3 Apr, 2016 Lead β Abbed to check that the crucial offset placement was still useable and flashed all the climbing. Exciting on the runout with some light rain falling! Very cool route.
Abbed to check that the crucial offset placement was still useable and flashed all the climbing. Exciting on the runout with some light rain falling! Very cool route.
Hamish2322 ?Apr, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2016 -
masa-alpin 28 Oct, 2015 2nd dog 1 fall, when I messed up the sequence.
with Scott G
1 fall, when I messed up the sequence.
with Scott G
Hidden 28 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 9 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
with Tom Nichols
jacob shieldhouse hadley 4 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf very sweaty in 20c, slipped of half way up. so pissed off!
with dad
very sweaty in 20c, slipped of half way up. so pissed off!
with dad
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 Lead
wolf.leeb 4 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Finally.. Rp4 placement is shagged, decent offset Rp1 though (Yay!).. Awsome climbing.. Found the warm polish of dervish worse than the runout.
with Alexis
Finally.. Rp4 placement is shagged, decent offset Rp1 though (Yay!).. Awsome climbing.. Found the warm polish of dervish worse than the runout.
with Alexis
Somerset swede basher 3 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Offshore Andy (from bamford)
with Offshore Andy (from bamford)
Andy Peak 1 3 Sep, 2014 2nd Fell of just after the rp rushed the move and off i came, will lead next time.
Fell of just after the rp rushed the move and off i came, will lead next time.
Ed morris 28 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S The RP4 slot is useless, tiny RP1 just below and iffy skyhook above. A great questy route but won't be rushing back to repeat it.
with Jerry Handren
The RP4 slot is useless, tiny RP1 just below and iffy skyhook above. A great questy route but won't be rushing back to repeat it.
with Jerry Handren
Hidden 30 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Si ??, 2014 -
akhughes 24 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with Smithy
with Smithy
wolf.leeb 28 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf Got too dark.. down climbed awkwardly.
with Alexis
Got too dark.. down climbed awkwardly.
with Alexis
Keendan 4 Jul, 2013 Lead β Soft 6a, good footholds for a slate slab. The climbing eases nicely when it gets very run-out. Still serious though. Led with Matt's gear in the Dervish.
Soft 6a, good footholds for a slate slab. The climbing eases nicely when it gets very run-out. Still serious though. Led with Matt's gear in the Dervish.
Ramon Marin 30 Jun, 2013 2nd β Scary to belay Tom on it, got mega de-psyched for hard slate
with Tom le fanu
Scary to belay Tom on it, got mega de-psyched for hard slate
with Tom le fanu
Dangerous Dave 22 May, 2013 Lead dnf Too scary!!
Too scary!!
dan ely 13 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf first time on a e5. nearly got to finishing jug before the dervish but was so scaired i lowered of a skyhook
with dan
first time on a e5. nearly got to finishing jug before the dervish but was so scaired i lowered of a skyhook
with dan
Alex.M-M. 1 Jun, 2012 2nd dnf Stopped just before joining Dervish as I want the onsight of Dervish.
Stopped just before joining Dervish as I want the onsight of Dervish.
Owain Llewelyn 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
Luke Brooks 11 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with Murdo, willoates
with Murdo, willoates
cballard ??, 2012 -
willoates 16 Nov, 2011 Lead β On pre placed RPs, probably made it a fair bit easier. Reallh cool route, hard to give it three stars though when it is right next to the Dervish.
On pre placed RPs, probably made it a fair bit easier. Reallh cool route, hard to give it three stars though when it is right next to the Dervish.
Hidden 16 Nov, 2011 2nd
chris sm 6 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 1 Aug, 2011 Lead β Checked the top RP crack on the rap. Climbed it onsight.
with grady
Checked the top RP crack on the rap. Climbed it onsight.
with grady
centurion05 26 Feb, 2011 Lead β pretty cold, couldn't feel fingers or feet whilst on crux.
with dave g
pretty cold, couldn't feel fingers or feet whilst on crux.
with dave g
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Luke Brooks 27 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with Ewan, barni
with Ewan, barni
barni 27 Oct, 2010 2nd
nige 11 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
benchwarmer 5 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with Owen Barnicott, Justin Hughes
with Owen Barnicott, Justin Hughes
barni 5 Sep, 2010 Lead β look at the rp placment when of abing off another route
look at the rp placment when of abing off another route
centurion05 18 Aug, 2010 Lead β
HIGHTOWER 18 Aug, 2010 2nd dog
samrad 10 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf my foot poped part way up the runout. i went skiddin down the slab and the last peice ripped (not surprising really)! :(
with james G
my foot poped part way up the runout. i went skiddin down the slab and the last peice ripped (not surprising really)! :(
with james G
farmus21 10 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Fantastic climbing. Steady the whole way but still had to fight with my head and keep going. Ruddy Chuffed.
with Sam Radcliffe
Fantastic climbing. Steady the whole way but still had to fight with my head and keep going. Ruddy Chuffed.
with Sam Radcliffe
Duncan Campbell 11 May, 2010 Lead dnf fell just above the second piece of gear (medium wire) as I lost balance! Will definately be back for it!
fell just above the second piece of gear (medium wire) as I lost balance! Will definately be back for it!
TomPR ?Apr, 2010 -
hervenuttall ?Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
with Mikey
with Mikey
Mike Goldthorp 8 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
dodfoster 24 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with sam farnsworth
with sam farnsworth
smallerrich 22 Aug, 2009 Lead β Abseil inspection of gear a while ago, then again before climbing.
Abseil inspection of gear a while ago, then again before climbing.
Hidden 27 Jul, 2009 Lead β
JulesV 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Small gear, exellent climbing.
with Will Boxen
Small gear, exellent climbing.
with Will Boxen
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
IOAN D 4 May, 2008 Lead O/S very soft for grade
with katy
very soft for grade
with katy
alaan 10 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S Somewhat gripping!
with Grant
Somewhat gripping!
with Grant
Alex Mason 3 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S 3rd E5. Couldnt climb slate at all but though f*ck it! held it together really well. Rp i reckon is totally worthless, i pushed it in with my thumb!! good climbing though, i think its just about safe!
3rd E5. Couldnt climb slate at all but though f*ck it! held it together really well. Rp i reckon is totally worthless, i pushed it in with my thumb!! good climbing though, i think its just about safe!
Hidden 29 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
mgeek 8 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jonny stocking
with Jonny stocking
Toby Dunn 27 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
Hidden 8 Apr, 2007 Lead β
jeffmcd56 ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Apr, 2006 Lead rpt Nice climb, but don't fall off... you'd regret it...
Nice climb, but don't fall off... you'd regret it...
Dringo ??, 2006 -
Gus 14 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
pete johnson 24 Jul, 2004 Lead
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Hidden ??, 2002 2nd
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??, 1996 2nd
sheppy 12 Jul, 1995 2nd
with IceBun
with IceBun
Dave Musgrove Jnr 1 Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
Derek Ryden ?Aug, 1992 TR O/S
with Paul Twomey
with Paul Twomey
FATBOYFAT ??, 1992 2nd O/S Trying out my recently busted ankle
Trying out my recently busted ankle
PaulHermes ??, 1992 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1992 TR
with Paul Kallmes
with Paul Kallmes
mark-abz 24 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
with Andy W
with Andy W
jfletcher 16 Sep, 1990 Lead β Ground-up on sight, 2nd visit after reversing and lowering from RP4 on 1st attempt.
with Tim Newton
Ground-up on sight, 2nd visit after reversing and lowering from RP4 on 1st attempt.
with Tim Newton
steve taylor ?Aug, 1990 Lead O/S Led with hangover. Something of a rite of passage, including the walk into gear shop in Llanberis to buy an RP 4 (which wasn't as good as I had hoped)
with Jim Waddington
Led with hangover. Something of a rite of passage, including the walk into gear shop in Llanberis to buy an RP 4 (which wasn't as good as I had hoped)
with Jim Waddington
phardman 17 Jun, 1989 2nd O/S
with Simon Marsh
with Simon Marsh
Billg ??, 1989 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??, 1989 Lead O/S
with peter hadfield
with peter hadfield
NickHarms ??, 1989 -
Neil McA 12 Jun, 1988 2nd O/S
with Dave Green
with Dave Green
Hidden 5 Jun, 1988 Lead
keefe ??, 1988 -
tonykay ??, 1988 -
Steve Walker ??, 1988 Lead
with jason cain
with jason cain
sadams 25 Oct, 1987 Lead
with LUMC Fresher's Meet
with LUMC Fresher's Meet
Hidden 7 Sep, 1987 TR
Sean Kelly ?Jun, 1987 2nd Took a big swing when swapping feet just short of the Dervish jugs, my 'Fires' were a little loose fitting! Reclimbed it clean.
with Frank Richards
Took a big swing when swapping feet just short of the Dervish jugs, my 'Fires' were a little loose fitting! Reclimbed it clean.
with Frank Richards
Enty ??, 1987 -
with A Gudgeon
with A Gudgeon
Nick Biven ??, 1987 TR
Hidden ?Oct, 1986 Lead
Mike Owen 1 Sep, 1985 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 14 Jul, 1985 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1985 -
Melok ??, 1984 -
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 34
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set