Access Banned
A major rock fall has occured - access to the lower tier, beyond Dawes of Perception slab is very restricted and has been fenced off to protect the public.
There is currently no access to the quarry and climbers should avoid it for the time being.
The quarry is within the Padarn Country Park, managed by Gwynedd Council.
Rockfax Description
The lone route at the back of the bay tackles the next three levels in three pitches. It is loose and the precise line is unclear, though the first pitch looks worthwhile. Start at a green and white banded arete in the middle of the scree.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the arete with due care and attention.
2) 18m. Climb up for 3m, then traverse left for 5m before heading up grooves and a slab to a tree.
3) 18m. The precise line of this pitch is unknown. "Climb the arete right of the deep grassy groove to the top of the quarry". © Rockfax
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Guidebooks for Vivian Quarry
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Creagh Dhu Wall Direct
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))