Restricted Access
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
A swerving and sustained line on good rock and holds. Start at a clean strip of easy angled wall, 10m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.
1) 12m. Climb the easy-angled wall to a tree belay on the ledges of The Easy Way Down.
2) 10m. Move right and then climb up (plaque fixed on the rock to the right) and right passing a good ledge to another and nut and tree belays.
3) 8m. Take the short corner from the belay to a large ledge on the left and walk left to belay at a well-defined 3m hand-crack.
4) 12m. Climb up 3m on the right to a ledge and then walk left until it is possible to scramble easily up to another large ledge system. Go right and belay at trees next to two short cracks.
5) 18m. Head up to the left side of the buttress above and climb up good ledges on its far left flank to another large ledge and tree belay.
6) 12m. Follow the left side of the final buttress left of the tree to the very top of the crag and belay on flat ledges. © Rockfax
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