160m, 5 pitches.
A good climb and worthy of more attention with two excellent steep pitches. Start up the first pitch of Aonacrack and continue left for another few meters past AC until below the cracked rib described for p2 of Anaconda (20m). The guidebook says to continue until below the ice pitch of Axeless but this is 15m further on and left up the cliff. Climb the steep crack in the rib and go rightwards into a short corner and then up on snowy slabs below the steep final head wall with a good belay on the right wall (45m). Climb the steep chimney cutting through the head wall (perhaps only technical 6), which may be easier with more snow but will always involve some squirming (25m). Take the final snow arete of Twinkle to the summit slopes (grade II).
J. Currie, S.M. Richardson. Mar/1996.
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Route of Interest
Wall of the Early Morning Light, Direct Start
Grade: V 5 ***
(Beinn Bhan)