UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

23m. From the top of Scrattling Zawn contour along the rocks/grass right (facing out) until it is possible to begin a scramble decent down to just below the high tide line, then boulder hop left till you reach a dark zawn approximately 20-25 metres high. At low tide it is possible to stand on a small platform, step across the water onto a smaller ledge to begin the route.

From Javu.co.uk.

The steep looking corner crack on the right, at the back of the narrow zawn. Upon first appearance this crack seems to be some fist jamming pump fest, until viewed from close up where the line does not seem so aggressive. Pleasantly steep for the grade, good rock and solid protection throughout. A choice of two exits can be made at the top the left seems more fitting for the sustained direct feel to the route, right is easier.

John Mason, Sharon Robert 06/Jun/2007.

Ticklists

Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

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Route of Interest
Ben

Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)

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