Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
120ft A direct line through the 'dark heart' of Cheesegrater wall between 'Dark Angel' and 'Emmental Arete'. Roughly follows the grey/brown streak that rises from the centre of the unmistakable green area at the base of the wall. Perhaps the first truly 'modern' wall route in Britain on continuously overhanging shale. Remarkably, the climbing is excellent and sustained, and the rock sound up to half height. From thereon it becomes more friable although at no point does it become terminally loose. A large rack of cams is essential (2 sets from 0.5 to 3, supplemented by a reassuring 3.5 and 4 for a large pocket below the first crux). An insitu angle peg (and hidden bong runner just to its left) point the way at half height and give some confidence for the upper crux section. No other fixed gear. FA Dave Pickford April 05 The first ascent was made after an abseil inspection on which two pieces of fixed gear were placed. All other protection was placed on lead.
FA Dave Pickford Apr/2005.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
The Flying Dutchman
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Lundy)