UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

40m. Description taken from new routes pages of http://javu.co.uk:

A superb addition to the Cheesegrater, offering a highly technical crux above excellent gear. Shares the start of the mighty crackline of 'Dark Angel'. Climb this route for 5m (friend 4), before moving out left on to the wall. Climb the wall approx. 2m left of Dark Angel for 10m to a large pod, in which a friend 5 and other gear can be arranged. Make difficult moves up to a final tricam in a pocket. The crux sequence involves a series of demanding moves lefwards on unpredictable rock to eventually gain the sanctuary of the final niche of 'The Nightfishing'. FA Dave Pickford, Dan Donnovan. June 2005 Climbed headpoint style after abseil inspection. All gear placed on lead.

Dave Pickford, Dan Donnovan Jun/2005.

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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High E8
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Mid E7
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High E6
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High 6c
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Route of Interest
Just Revenge (Original)

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Anstey's Cove)

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