5 pitches.
Better route description IMO:
Reach ledge above Lower Tier by scrabbling up loose scree left of South Trident Buttress until a series of grassy ledges goes right (or reach by 1944 / 1934 Climb). Follow ledge R until the end, c. 100 m.
Start 4 m L of end of ledges. Climb series of steps. Now 2 choices: (1) the (?original) chimney to the right, often wet; (2) 4 m left of chimney is an open corner, which gives very pleasant climbing at HVD / Severe - small nuts good to protect. This corner can be fine & dry, when the chimney is still wet. Belay at top. Then c. 20 m easy climbing/scrambling until steep wall.
Climb wall on the left (small nuts) for 6 m, go left of a large block, then traverse right to steep wall or tower with wide crack. Climb this crack, which is steep, and looks awkward, but is well protectable with slings around various chockstones , and some good friend placements on cracks on the side. Good holds appear soon on the right wall. This is HVD to Severe I guess. After this, pleasant scrambling with maybe a few Diff steps, following the ridge line all the way to the summit (?c. 100m).
Reach ledge above Lower Tier by scrabbling up loose scree left of South Trident Buttress until a series of grassy ledges goes right (or reach by 1944 / 1934 Climb). Follow ledge R until the end, c. 100 m.
Start 4 m L of end of ledges. Climb series of steps. Now 2 choices: (1) the (?original) chimney to the right, often wet; (2) 4 m left of chimney is an open corner, which gives very pleasant climbing at HVD / Severe - small nuts good to protect. This corner can be fine & dry, when the chimney is still wet. Belay at top. Then c. 20 m easy climbing/scrambling until steep wall.
Climb wall on the left (small nuts) for 6 m, go left of a large block, then traverse right to steep wall or tower with wide crack. Climb this crack, which is steep, and looks awkward, but is well protectable with slings around various chockstones , and some good friend placements on cracks on the side. Good holds appear soon on the right wall. This is HVD to Severe I guess. After this, pleasant scrambling with maybe a few Diff steps, following the ridge line all the way to the summit (?c. 100m).
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maarten2 | 9 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Better route description IMO: Reach ledge above Lower Tier by scrabbling up loose scree left of South Trident Buttress until a series of grassy ledges goes right (or reach by 1944 / 1934 Climb). Follow ledge R until the end, c. 100 m. Start 4 m L of end of ledges. Climb series of steps. Now 2 choices: (1) the (?original) chimney to the right, often wet; (2) 4 m left of chimney is an open corner, which gives very pleasant climbing at HVD / Severe - small nuts good to protect. This corner can be fine & dry, when the chimney is still wet. Belay at top. Then c. 20 m easy climbing/scrambling until steep wall. Climb wall on the left (small nuts) for 6 m, go left of a large block, then traverse right to steep wall or tower with wide crack. Climb this crack, which is steep, and looks awkward, but is well protectable with slings around various chockstones , and some good friend placements on cracks on the side. Good holds appear soon on the right wall. This is HVD to Severe I guess. After this, pleasant scrambling with maybe a few Diff steps, following the ridge line all the way to the summit (?c. 100m). | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Better route description IMO: Reach ledge above Lower Tier by scrabbling up loose scree left of South Trident Buttress until a series of grassy ledges goes right (or reach by 1944 / 1934 Climb). Follow ledge R until the end, c. 100 m. Start 4 m L of end of ledges. Climb series of steps. Now 2 choices: (1) the (?original) chimney to the right, often wet; (2) 4 m left of chimney is an open corner, which gives very pleasant climbing at HVD / Severe - small nuts good to protect. This corner can be fine & dry, when the chimney is still wet. Belay at top. Then c. 20 m easy climbing/scrambling until steep wall. Climb wall on the left (small nuts) for 6 m, go left of a large block, then traverse right to steep wall or tower with wide crack. Climb this crack, which is steep, and looks awkward, but is well protectable with slings around various chockstones , and some good friend placements on cracks on the side. Good holds appear soon on the right wall. This is HVD to Severe I guess. After this, pleasant scrambling with maybe a few Diff steps, following the ridge line all the way to the summit (?c. 100m). |
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Route of Interest
Observatory Ridge (Summer)
Grade: VD ***
(Ben Nevis)