Rockfax Description
A well-travelled route, although not as popular as its right-hand neighbour. Start on the far left of the wall.
1) 4a, 10m. Climb a crack and flake to a belay by some heather.
2) 24m. Move up, then back right, to almost join The Slabs Route 1. Step left to a crack and follow this to a small ledge and belay.
3) 14m. Go up the groove and grassy rock above to reach a ledge. Walk/scramble carefully off leftwards from here. © Rockfax
Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS
User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 17 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: The better of the two severes in my view, with a good section through a steepening (low down) and a great position close to the left arete. It is possible to lead as 1 pitch all the way to the ab point using 50m ropes, which is a little higher than where 50m is marked on the Rockfax topo. The ab point: from the ledges, climb a short barrel-shaped rib of grippy rock and head slightly left to find rope loops and carabiner in-situ around a large spike. A pair of 50m ropes get you to the ground with about 8m to spare (i.e. c.42m abseil). Ab is much quicker than descent by foot. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The better of the two severes in my view, with a good section through a steepening (low down) and a great position close to the left arete. It is possible to lead as 1 pitch all the way to the ab point using 50m ropes, which is a little higher than where 50m is marked on the Rockfax topo. The ab point: from the ledges, climb a short barrel-shaped rib of grippy rock and head slightly left to find rope loops and carabiner in-situ around a large spike. A pair of 50m ropes get you to the ground with about 8m to spare (i.e. c.42m abseil). Ab is much quicker than descent by foot. |
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Capricorn One | 18 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Belayed the last 15m or so to the top and walk off, scramble felt precarious. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Belayed the last 15m or so to the top and walk off, scramble felt precarious. |
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Reggie Roy | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Lots of broken and dangerous holds after top pitch. Beware in greener areas. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of broken and dangerous holds after top pitch. Beware in greener areas. |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Dow Crag)