Rockfax Description
Climb to the large conglomerate crimps on the upper wall. © Rockfax

FA Historical, cleaned and equiped by John Leonard 2007

Ticklists: 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast, Portland.


ClimberDateStyle
Saurusrock 22/Jun Lead O/S

Described to me by Josh as possibly the hardest 5 on Portland, maybe even the world. Conditions were pretty unfavourable, with a pretty strong wind blowing, but I got on anyway. Route was fine.

with Rob Wilson, Josh Short
Remyveness 05/Jun Lead
Remyveness 05/Jun Lead
AHTang 02/Jun Lead RP

Definitely not 5a. For a taller climber with more reach probably a 5c involving a good amount of reaching and power. For a smaller climber with less reach probably a 6a involving some technical 'scrunching-up' and balancing footwork.

dereke12000 31/May Lead RP

Found the reachy 5c approach much better than the 7a hold missing approach.

abigabfab 30/Apr 2nd dog

Looks like a crucial handhold has come off - definitely not a 5 without this.

edjenkins 24/Mar Lead dog
with Rob Fudge May
n3ls0nm 24/Sep/16 TR dog
with Lars Paton
Rokmunky 15/Aug/16 Lead
with Trannum
hlburns ?/Jul/16 -
Nick Biven 03/Jun/16 Lead
with Whole family
Adam Perrett 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Sarah Perrett
Alex Wieczorek 20/Mar/16 Lead dnf
with Richard Culwick
Sebastien Gastaud 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
dansimkin 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
CraigPerl 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
alijam42 01/Aug/15 TR
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
BenG32 26/Apr/15 Lead dnf
dereke12000 08/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Too pumped

with Aidan
jrccrosby 15/Mar/15 Lead

dogged, bit too tough for a 5, suspect a broken hold, still doable but very bouldery.

Theeni 15/Mar/15 Lead
with Joseph
musgravet 01/Mar/15 TR
greenerd 01/Mar/15 TR
AdenCox 01/Mar/15 TR
arandall 07/Dec/14 Lead RP
Wendy Watthews 07/Dec/14 Lead dnf
JoeCoxson 07/Dec/14 Lead G/U

Came off a couple of times before working out the moves, so I left the gear up for everyone to have a play, then climbed it clean at the end. Hard for the grade for sure.

with Charlie Bore
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Steph
TiffTiff 14/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Tom
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
HendrikTBB 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Definitely does not feel like a 5. Does look suspiciously like an important hold has gone awol. Managed it as quite a strenuous and delicate rock over after a bit of floundering around thinking 'there must be a better option if this is only a 5!'.

with John W
johnl 07/Jun/14 -

Most of a crucial left hand crimp has gone from this since it was first done, more of a F6b now.

Hidden 19/Apr/14 TR
annak 26/Oct/13 Lead dnf
dobby 200 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt

Definitely more of a reachy 6a

with Lucy
mattc 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jackwd 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Scott
meltdown34 12/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Difficult climb for its grade, seems to be a hold missing at crucial point coming over ledge but unsure due to never climbing this route before. to be tried again when fresher.

with Chris
Hidden 08/Aug/13 TR
Hidden 08/Aug/13 TR O/S
amyrosemason 08/Aug/13 TR dog
with Howett
Sam Moss ?/Aug/13 TR
with Misha, JillEccles
RKirke 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sam B
Albachoss 07/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Spanking Number 2

Hidden 02/Jun/13 TR rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/13 TR rpt
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
SamStokes 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
air 26/Mar/13 Lead RP

scariest 5 in the world!

with Lloyd
Hidden 30/Aug/12 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead
pdhammond 26/May/12 Lead dnf
Radical-G 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 20/May/12 Lead rpt

nails!

oodie72 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Evan
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
musgravet 14/Apr/12 TR
Stefan_Morris 25/Mar/12 Lead
Sebastien Gastaud 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Tulloch
climbingrev 08/Jan/12 TR dnf

Still not a F5! cf to other Portland 5's I'd say about 6a. Maybe if you were taller you could reach the crimp out right. Worked all the moves, but never tied them together in clean ascent

with Shunt
Doug Wilkie ??/2012 -
reece.robinson 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Matt250 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
GeorgeA 02/May/11 TR

Good climb. Possibly loose block at top.

Hidden 02/May/11 TR
MontyH 23/Apr/11 Lead
with Lee Lander
Linc ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/10 Lead O/S
dmaldonado 12/Sep/10 2nd β
climbingrev 07/Sep/10 TR RP

Hard crux - I think some of the crimps must have pulled off over time. The Johnl 2007 photo gives some weight to this wimp-out! (whatever his left hand was on, isn't there anymore!)

with Shunt
Alex More ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Ed morris 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Dickon
nmwr 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with John, Nik
DrJon 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Pete
cpoad 11/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Clare F
Hidden ??/2009 Lead rpt
el_Claudio ??/2009 Lead RP

on the quarry at the top.... where the stone block are

MarkRyder 12/Jul/08 Lead RP

Crumbly

with Rich
vertigo 12/Jul/08 Lead β
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead β
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/08 TR O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/08 Solo
jl 17/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Penny
pennyb 17/Feb/08 2nd
with Jon
Hidden 10/Feb/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/07 -
Lloyders 16/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 16/Dec/07 Lead RP
with Matt, Tom
Marti999 16/Nov/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
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Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set