UKC

26m. Another classic that's disappeared from the guidebooks. One of the 2 or 3 really good trad routes at Taffs Wells (most of the rest are horrorshows on exceptionally poor rock).

A good quality main pitch on perhaps the best rock in the quarry. Start by scrambling to twin trees 8m R of the buttress in the middle of the cliff, and about 9m from the foot of the cliff.

1. 26m. Move up and L to a corner/groove, then up again and step L to the bottom of a slab. PR. Climb the slab then a shallow groove to reach a final steep V groove. Follow this to a large ledge and tree belay. Abseil.
2. Alternatively, lunatics can continue up and left by battling their way across unstable grass ledges and loose rock to further tree belays.

Unknown c.1960.

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