UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

A good introduction to the serious climbing hereabouts, often climbed with the first section of Auricle. This route starts at the obvious dirty corner at the top of the grassy ramp at the same place as Cannibal and there is a peg there about 2ft from ground level. There are about 6 big pegs on the route but they are all in fairly poor condition. Fairly serious, and a good introduction to this type of climbing, starting at the foot of a prominent crack, at the top of the grassy ramp, about halfway between the top pitch of Auricle, and Left Hand Red Wall. Climb the corner, poor peg, to a ledge below an overlap. Move left, ascend a shallow groove past a peg, and trend slightly right on large loose holds to a deep break. Finish up the difficult crack, three metres right of the Auricle Alternative Finish.
Al Evans, Paul Williams, Jim Moran, Ben Wintringham 6 Aug 1978.

Al Evans, Paul Williams,Jim Moran, 06/Aug/1978.

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Route of Interest
Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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