14m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete can be followed throughout. It is too close to Himmelswillen in its central section (runners but no holds allowed) but features good climbing with a worrying finale. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1981

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Richard 261 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree, when I first failed it I thought E2 5c at least. Then I top roped it and found the secret holds. But I'd still say E2 5b without using any of Himmelswillen. Very nice route now I've cheated...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree, when I first failed it I thought E2 5c at least. Then I top roped it and found the secret holds. But I'd still say E2 5b without using any of Himmelswillen. Very nice route now I've cheated...
Fiend 22 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not a great route although the safe, steep upper part is fun. Cruxes are placing good but fiddly gear lower down, and avoiding Himmelswillen.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not a great route although the safe, steep upper part is fun. Cruxes are placing good but fiddly gear lower down, and avoiding Himmelswillen.
Offwidth 6 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Changed my mind a bit having tried it again at the weekend. It has a trick move if you avoid holds in Himmelswillen but is probably only E2 5b ish with no gear in Himmelswillen. Using gear, holds or both in Himmelswillen might make it E1. I think its still harder than GBA whatever way you do it and that top section would be pretty serious if you tried to rush up it when pumping out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Changed my mind a bit having tried it again at the weekend. It has a trick move if you avoid holds in Himmelswillen but is probably only E2 5b ish with no gear in Himmelswillen. Using gear, holds or both in Himmelswillen might make it E1. I think its still harder than GBA whatever way you do it and that top section would be pretty serious if you tried to rush up it when pumping out.
Offwidth 4 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Thats a bit of an understatement Nick! On the upper section this must use holds on Himmelswillen and the arete to be anything like E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thats a bit of an understatement Nick! On the upper section this must use holds on Himmelswillen and the arete to be anything like E1.
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty worrying in its upper half, this route felt quite a bit harder than Great Buttress Arete. Excellent moves though - deserves at good 2 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty worrying in its upper half, this route felt quite a bit harder than Great Buttress Arete. Excellent moves though - deserves at good 2 stars.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
nickpierpoint 13 Sep TR First E1 - even if on top rope
First E1 - even if on top rope
adi bryant 3 Jul Lead dog
with Preet
with Preet
dannyboy83 22 May Solo O/S
HarryBowyer 29 Apr Solo dnf
Hidden 11 Jan Lead O/S
Jwatson 11 Jan 2nd O/S
Luke90 31 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Oct, 2018 2nd dog
MrFantastic 11 Mar, 2018 Lead G/U
with Sam
with Sam
Dawn_K_B 2 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
Teappleby 2 Nov, 2017 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 2 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Went on the right side of the arete at the top, didn't see the slot in the top wall. Still felt hard what I did, but didn't look as good as what the 2nds did.
Went on the right side of the arete at the top, didn't see the slot in the top wall. Still felt hard what I did, but didn't look as good as what the 2nds did.
Hidden 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S
stevo smith 23 Apr, 2017 Lead Onsight lead. down climbed to big ledge before going for it!
with Chris B.
Onsight lead. down climbed to big ledge before going for it!
with Chris B.
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf
Chris Redding 19 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Used a nut and cam in the Himmelswillen crack. Took the cam out after placing the nut. Would feel very bold without it, but not sure you need to use the crack as a hold. Very pumpy but decent rests all the way.
Used a nut and cam in the Himmelswillen crack. Took the cam out after placing the nut. Would feel very bold without it, but not sure you need to use the crack as a hold. Very pumpy but decent rests all the way.
williemiller 3 Apr, 2016 2nd
markfairbank 3 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Used gear in Himmelswillen, stupid not to. Top arĂȘte is ace.
with Will Miller
Used gear in Himmelswillen, stupid not to. Top arĂȘte is ace.
with Will Miller
adi bryant 20 Jan, 2016 Lead
with Sam
with Sam
JasonK 11 Jun, 2015 Lead Very hot and sweaty evening. Didn't really fancy the upper section so scooted of the side at half height. Should go back and do properly.
Very hot and sweaty evening. Didn't really fancy the upper section so scooted of the side at half height. Should go back and do properly.
stevelismore 11 Jun, 2015 2nd
with JasonK
with JasonK
will9911 9 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Neil
with Neil
Andy Peak 1 3 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S It felt like e2 5b to me, adventurous!!
with phill ukc
It felt like e2 5b to me, adventurous!!
with phill ukc
leeds_belle 22 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
will9911 ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
christianbreeze 5 Oct, 2013 2nd dog really pumpy, really exposed, at the peak of the grade, I CAN DO IT!!!!!
really pumpy, really exposed, at the peak of the grade, I CAN DO IT!!!!!
adi bryant 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Wayne S 19 Jun, 2013 2nd
deacondeacon 19 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S More like E2. although its an eliminate its such a striking arete it has to be climbed.
More like E2. although its an eliminate its such a striking arete it has to be climbed.
Marcus B 28 Sep, 2012 2nd
HarryBowyer 30 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt
keith leonard ??, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Alex@home 26 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S good moves but would be very contrived to avoid holds and gear in himmelswillen half way up. top section fingery and probably the crux but too easy to bridge across chimney for rest. quite hard for grade if you don't do this though
with TonyM
good moves but would be very contrived to avoid holds and gear in himmelswillen half way up. top section fingery and probably the crux but too easy to bridge across chimney for rest. quite hard for grade if you don't do this though
with TonyM
Hidden 21 May, 2011 2nd O/S
Marti999 18 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
sims 23 Aug, 2009 TR dog
with Jonno
with Jonno
JMarkW 13 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Still reassuringly weak
with Natty
Still reassuringly weak
with Natty
robbo 20 Mar, 2009 TR Top roped it, as it looked poorly protected. I have to say, if you are not supposed to use the crack or pro on Himmelswillen, then this is a desperate and very bold E1. There is only a poor cam placement at half height to protect a very balancy and difficult crux move, then a cam to protect the top out. It was very pumpy on a top rope. Maybe the crack is in, which would make it feel more like E1. Without I'd say E3, it's as hard as banana wall which I lead no probs and a lot more scary. A better description in the guide might clear things up!!
with Phil Jenks
Top roped it, as it looked poorly protected. I have to say, if you are not supposed to use the crack or pro on Himmelswillen, then this is a desperate and very bold E1. There is only a poor cam placement at half height to protect a very balancy and difficult crux move, then a cam to protect the top out. It was very pumpy on a top rope. Maybe the crack is in, which would make it feel more like E1. Without I'd say E3, it's as hard as banana wall which I lead no probs and a lot more scary. A better description in the guide might clear things up!!
with Phil Jenks
clive-greenwood 27 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Anna Horrox 27 Aug, 2008 2nd
adam carless 15 Jun, 2008 TR O/S yeah, yeah, top-roping scum - was feeling weak. If gear in the Himelswillen crack is allowed, this would be a nice well protected E1, without it - a rather contrived eliminate.
yeah, yeah, top-roping scum - was feeling weak. If gear in the Himelswillen crack is allowed, this would be a nice well protected E1, without it - a rather contrived eliminate.
mattyork2 1 May, 2008 2nd
with Steve Aherne
with Steve Aherne
Hidden 27 Jan, 2008 TR O/S
Brian Rodgers 15 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
HarryBowyer 9 Sep, 2007 Lead dog
Misha ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
steveb2006 11 Aug, 2007 Lead dnf Found top too bold and bridged into gully
with Paul E
Found top too bold and bridged into gully
with Paul E
Lukey B 6 May, 2007 TR O/S
Hidden ?May, 2007 -
DavidR 26 Jul, 2006 Lead dog
with Holly Adamthwaite & Steve Corcoran
with Holly Adamthwaite & Steve Corcoran
goi.ashmore 11 Feb, 2006 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Garcon
with Arnaud Garcon
cem 5 Feb, 2006 Lead dnf Backed off it
with GrahamD
Backed off it
with GrahamD
JMarkW 31 Jul, 2005 2nd
with Simon Marson
with Simon Marson
Hidden ?May, 2005 2nd dog
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 25 May, 2002 Lead O/S
with Sue Austin
with Sue Austin
Chris Reid ?May, 2001 Lead O/S
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set