Rockfax Description
The right-hand arete can be followed throughout. It is too close to Himmelswillen in its central section (runners but no holds allowed) but features good climbing with a worrying finale. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1981

Dawn_K_B 02/Nov/17 2nd O/S
Teappleby 02/Nov/17 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 02/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Went on the right side of the arete at the top, didn't see the slot in the top wall. Still felt hard what I did, but didn't look as good as what the 2nds did.

with Dawn, Tom A
Hidden 13/May/17 Lead O/S
stevo smith 23/Apr/17 Lead

Onsight lead. down climbed to big ledge before going for it!

with Chris B.
Hidden 13/Jul/16 Lead dnf
Chris Redding 19/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Used a nut and cam in the Himmelswillen crack. Took the cam out after placing the nut. Would feel very bold without it, but not sure you need to use the crack as a hold. Very pumpy but decent rests all the way.

Hidden 03/Apr/16 2nd
markfairbank 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Used gear in Himmelswillen, stupid not to. Top arête is ace.

with Will Miller
adi bryant 20/Jan/16 Lead
with Sam
JasonK 11/Jun/15 Lead

Very hot and sweaty evening. Didn't really fancy the upper section so scooted of the side at half height. Should go back and do properly.

stevelismore 11/Jun/15 2nd
with JasonK
will9911 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
Andy Peak 1 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S

It felt like e2 5b to me, adventurous!!

with phill ukc
leeds_belle 22/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Will
will9911 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
christianbreeze 05/Oct/13 2nd dog

really pumpy, really exposed, at the peak of the grade, I CAN DO IT!!!!!

adi bryant 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Wayne S 19/Jun/13 2nd
with Deacon
deacondeacon 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

More like E2. although its an eliminate its such a striking arete it has to be climbed.

Marcus B 28/Sep/12 2nd
keith leonard ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Alex@home 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S

good moves but would be very contrived to avoid holds and gear in himmelswillen half way up. top section fingery and probably the crux but too easy to bridge across chimney for rest. quite hard for grade if you don't do this though

Hidden 21/May/11 2nd O/S
Marti999 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
sims 23/Aug/09 TR dog
with Jonno
Hidden 13/Aug/09 Lead dog
robbo 20/Mar/09 TR

Top roped it, as it looked poorly protected. I have to say, if you are not supposed to use the crack or pro on Himmelswillen, then this is a desperate and very bold E1. There is only a poor cam placement at half height to protect a very balancy and difficult crux move, then a cam to protect the top out. It was very pumpy on a top rope. Maybe the crack is in, which would make it feel more like E1. Without I'd say E3, it's as hard as banana wall which I lead no probs and a lot more scary. A better description in the guide might clear things up!!

with Phil Jenks
clive-greenwood 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Horrox 27/Aug/08 2nd
adam carless 15/Jun/08 TR O/S

yeah, yeah, top-roping scum - was feeling weak. If gear in the Himelswillen crack is allowed, this would be a nice well protected E1, without it - a rather contrived eliminate.

mattyork2 01/May/08 2nd
with Steve Aherne
Hidden 27/Jan/08 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Misha ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead dnf
Lukey B 06/May/07 TR O/S
Hidden ?/May/07 -
DavidR 26/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Holly Adamthwaite & Steve Corcoran
goi.ashmore 11/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Garcon
cem 05/Feb/06 Lead dnf

Backed off it

Hidden 31/Jul/05 2nd
Hidden ?/May/05 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 25/May/02 Lead O/S
with Sue Austin
Chris Reid ?/May/01 Lead O/S
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
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