6m.

Rockfax Description
From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position, always being careful not to lose a pound of flesh. Wild! © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Gascoyne 1981

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Duz Walker 14 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you end up standing on the lip curly plate things head first into the jaws?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you end up standing on the lip curly plate things head first into the jaws?
Simon Caldwell 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Much easier if you're tall enough to reach the foot hold out on the left without leaving the ledge! For an easier but still exciting alternative, pull up and use the top break for the traverse.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much easier if you're tall enough to reach the foot hold out on the left without leaving the ledge! For an easier but still exciting alternative, pull up and use the top break for the traverse.
Nick Smith - Climbers 18 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Much harder than the rest of the route, but an entertaining way to finish off in a spectaculator position. Pumpy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much harder than the rest of the route, but an entertaining way to finish off in a spectaculator position. Pumpy!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
richfitz 21 Sep Lead O/S
with Andrea
with Andrea
lundyman 7 Sep Lead Scary, but super safe, with just a brief moment of hanging footless from the lower break before using the obvious lower limb holds. A fun finish to Route 1. Guy was nicely patient while I summoned up the courage to go for it, then he was able to enjoy the moves too.
with Guy Reid
Scary, but super safe, with just a brief moment of hanging footless from the lower break before using the obvious lower limb holds. A fun finish to Route 1. Guy was nicely patient while I summoned up the courage to go for it, then he was able to enjoy the moves too.
with Guy Reid
Ardo 21 Jul Lead O/S
Ian Carr 5 Jul -
with Steve
with Steve
slab_happy 3 Jul 2nd
jessieleong 3 Jul Lead O/S This looked a bit wild and impossible if you’re short to reach the weird jutting foothold... So laced horizontal slanting crack with cams, went up to the right and kind of traversed back left and got the foot hold and then romped up the gargoyles. A Shylock variation?
This looked a bit wild and impossible if you’re short to reach the weird jutting foothold... So laced horizontal slanting crack with cams, went up to the right and kind of traversed back left and got the foot hold and then romped up the gargoyles. A Shylock variation?
Hidden 29 Jun Lead O/S
Deezel65 23 May Lead rpt Not as good as it promises to be
Not as good as it promises to be
Deezel65 23 May 2nd rpt
ipfreely 23 May Lead
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 Lead
Hidden 28 May, 2018 Lead O/S
climberchristy 28 May, 2018 2nd Really fun route with a fine finish. First route of a great day.
with LMS
Really fun route with a fine finish. First route of a great day.
with LMS
George Killaspy 27 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with dylan.b
with dylan.b
Alex Hyde 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S Sick climb
Sick climb
sam.gillan 19 May, 2018 2nd
Chris Murray 7 May, 2018 Lead Great stuff! A much better finish to Route 1 than slinking off right with tail between legs.
Great stuff! A much better finish to Route 1 than slinking off right with tail between legs.
royle883 29 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Sep, 2017 2nd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
steveb2006 13 Aug, 2017 Lead Lower break too wide for jamming but hanging from edge feels ok till can get feet up and pull up and out to the gargoyles.
Lower break too wide for jamming but hanging from edge feels ok till can get feet up and pull up and out to the gargoyles.
foobar123 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S Maybe went a little high, but was still great! The obvious finish really.
Maybe went a little high, but was still great! The obvious finish really.
Hidden 28 May, 2017 2nd O/S
jimmysdead 24 May, 2017 Lead O/S Great route, best climb this year after (mostly) cycling up to the Tor. Mantles are progressively better and better, great finish.
with DPC Rob
Great route, best climb this year after (mostly) cycling up to the Tor. Mantles are progressively better and better, great finish.
with DPC Rob
cem 9 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
with Kirill, Ricardo Da Silva
with Kirill, Ricardo Da Silva
Kirill 9 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Ricardo Da Silva, cem
with Ricardo Da Silva, cem
Deezel65 3 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S Class
Class
JasonK 17 Aug, 2016 -
with Alex H., Kieran W.
with Alex H., Kieran W.
Hidden 21 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Clama 21 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
JasonK 21 Jun, 2016 - Awesome route- one of the best VS's I've done. I have no idea why adding the spectacular, and obvious Shylock finish gives this less stars than the original!
with Greg
Awesome route- one of the best VS's I've done. I have no idea why adding the spectacular, and obvious Shylock finish gives this less stars than the original!
with Greg
cf2g08 1 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S De-licious!
De-licious!
charley 5 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
with Jackwd
with Jackwd
Jackwd 5 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
with charley
with charley
Luke90 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S I think the whole climb deserves HVS, though the finish itself was quite easy to lank out with long arms. One of the mantle moves would have been quite tricky to protect without cams.
I think the whole climb deserves HVS, though the finish itself was quite easy to lank out with long arms. One of the mantle moves would have been quite tricky to protect without cams.
admackie 2 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with sopaz
with sopaz
sopaz 2 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 2nd
Cake 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Best VS I've done in ages. The moves keep coming throughout
Best VS I've done in ages. The moves keep coming throughout
Hidden 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
John Nuttall 9 Apr, 2015 Lead
with Coel
with Coel
amccann 5 Sep, 2014 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 5 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Matt Harmon 5 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Marti999 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
ned_85 17 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Gudge
with Gudge
Gudge 17 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Spectacular moves - definitely worth doing!
with ned_85
Spectacular moves - definitely worth doing!
with ned_85
Hidden 12 Jun, 2014 2nd
GermanAlex 8 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Wild, but somehow feels artificial despite being the direct finish.
with Jack
Wild, but somehow feels artificial despite being the direct finish.
with Jack
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
AshBash 19 Apr, 2014 2nd
with cheque
with cheque
thetradlad 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 18 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
the power 29 Jun, 2013 2nd
deacondeacon 29 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Jackwd 10 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with Nigel Berry
with Nigel Berry
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
SuperLee1985 9 Jun, 2013 2nd β
froglette 9 Jun, 2013 2nd
with johnpr
with johnpr
ColinD 9 Jun, 2013 Lead
brownie mike 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??, 2013 2nd
Wyrdwired ??, 2013 Lead O/S
john_ni 8 Aug, 2012 2nd
Graeme Hammond 8 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Dovestone Tors equivalent of Almscliffs 5* finish but to Route 1. Not sure why I didn't do this when I did Route 1 before.
with john_ni
Dovestone Tors equivalent of Almscliffs 5* finish but to Route 1. Not sure why I didn't do this when I did Route 1 before.
with john_ni
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 27 May, 2012 2nd O/S easier for the tall, who can go straight up if need be.
with Andrew Marshall
easier for the tall, who can go straight up if need be.
with Andrew Marshall
max_chan 26 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with Phil PCC
with Phil PCC
Hidden 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
cem 24 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt
with Ketu
with Ketu
keith Lonsdale 28 Jul, 2011 2nd
andybirtwistle 28 Jul, 2011 Lead
JEP 5 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
joemallia 23 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with JKW, Sink41
with JKW, Sink41
smeaton 18 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with dusty
with dusty
Hidden 5 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 5 Sep, 2010 Lead Great! Its a shame Route 1 wasnt climbed with this finish originally.
with RM199
Great! Its a shame Route 1 wasnt climbed with this finish originally.
with RM199
Hidden 27 Jun, 2010 2nd
Hidden 25 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
keefe 5 Jun, 2010 -
with Tansy
with Tansy
Hidden 15 May, 2010 Lead
mattparratt 24 Apr, 2010 2nd Yuck
Yuck
ChrisBrooke 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
with John Inkpen
disturbed_one51 10 Apr, 2010 Lead awesome exposed finish. well worth doing as the rest of route 1 is a waste of time past this.
awesome exposed finish. well worth doing as the rest of route 1 is a waste of time past this.
Hidden 10 Apr, 2010 2nd
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
sishaw 26 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with PeakDJ
with PeakDJ
Ketu 10 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
SR1970 ?Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Different Steve 8 Aug, 2009 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins
with Emma Hawkins
nige pacer 2 Aug, 2009 -
john.gaffney 14 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S Not sure I did the end correctly but quality route with loads of mantling!
with Peter Morrisdaboss
Not sure I did the end correctly but quality route with loads of mantling!
with Peter Morrisdaboss
morrisdaboss 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S Think i went accross to high, which is a shame as the next people up to a very dramatic line - next time!
with JB
Think i went accross to high, which is a shame as the next people up to a very dramatic line - next time!
with JB
adam carless 19 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S a gratuitous photo-op finish for route 1
with jon_nz
a gratuitous photo-op finish for route 1
with jon_nz
matsavage 17 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 5 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S .. So I was stood at the top of Route 1 in very strong wind pondering whether I dared have a crack at it. After what seemed like hours of shivering and tooing and throwing I decided I'd go for it, fiddled a 3.5 cam in back and forth trying to get the best bomber placement. After several failed attempts of trying to whip my left foot out to the left but it was just too far to do! Eventually, I jammed my right hand as far to the right as I could, and my left hand in the break. then I "Supermaned" out facing right with my right foot cocked up on the right, and pulled up and reached for the break above, got it hung it and stood up, scuttled out left only to realise there was no gear and I was just in a cave stuck! Eventually edged out back carefully and reached over to the thank god gargoyles! Top notch will have to try and do it in better style sometime!
.. So I was stood at the top of Route 1 in very strong wind pondering whether I dared have a crack at it. After what seemed like hours of shivering and tooing and throwing I decided I'd go for it, fiddled a 3.5 cam in back and forth trying to get the best bomber placement. After several failed attempts of trying to whip my left foot out to the left but it was just too far to do! Eventually, I jammed my right hand as far to the right as I could, and my left hand in the break. then I "Supermaned" out facing right with my right foot cocked up on the right, and pulled up and reached for the break above, got it hung it and stood up, scuttled out left only to realise there was no gear and I was just in a cave stuck! Eventually edged out back carefully and reached over to the thank god gargoyles! Top notch will have to try and do it in better style sometime!
Hidden 27 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
tobydunford 13 Jul, 2008 2nd β
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
max_chan 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Crofty 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S Dave, Chris and I all did the finish differently.Exposed
Dave, Chris and I all did the finish differently.Exposed
howlingbaboon 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim
with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim
richgibson 6 Sep, 2007 2nd
with John, Diz
with John, Diz
Joe Dove 26 Aug, 2007 Lead
with paul
with paul
RichardMc 25 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
with Angel Vila
max_chan 11 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Steve
with Steve
masa-alpin 14 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Adam W
with Adam W
Sidekick 1 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Different Steve 17 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S Great route and a wild finish!
with Pete Krug & Louise Farr
Great route and a wild finish!
with Pete Krug & Louise Farr
GPN ?Apr, 2006 Lead
with jamster
with jamster
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden 16 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S
richgac 15 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
with Nick
with Nick
sdht ??, 2004 -
Hidden 26 May, 2003 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 2003 Lead
cem 31 Aug, 2002 2nd
with Rob Smithies, GrahamD
with Rob Smithies, GrahamD
Hidden 25 Jun, 1999 Lead
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set