Rockfax Description
From above the crux on Route 1, follow the lowest break awkwardly out to the left. Finish easily in a dramatic position, always being careful not to lose a pound of flesh. Wild! © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Gascoyne 1981

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

royle883 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/17 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/17 Lead
foobar123 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Maybe went a little high, but was still great! The obvious finish really.

Hidden 28/May/17 2nd O/S
jimmysdead 24/May/17 Lead O/S

Great route, best climb this year after (mostly) cycling up to the Tor. Mantles are progressively better and better, great finish.

with DPC Rob
cem 09/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Kirill Spiridonov, Ricardo Da Silva
Kirill 09/Apr/17 2nd
with Ricardo Da Silva, Charles Moreton
Deezel65 03/Oct/16 2nd O/S


JasonK 17/Aug/16 -
with Alex H., Kieran W.
Hidden 21/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Clama 21/Jun/16 2nd O/S
JasonK 21/Jun/16 -

Awesome route- one of the best VS's I've done. I have no idea why adding the spectacular, and obvious Shylock finish gives this less stars than the original!

with Greg
cf2g08 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S


with Iain
charley 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with JackD
Jackwd 05/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Luke90 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

I think the whole climb deserves HVS, though the finish itself was quite easy to lank out with long arms. One of the mantle moves would have been quite tricky to protect without cams.

with Liz
admackie 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
sopaz 02/Aug/15 2nd
with Mackie
Hidden 09/Jul/15 2nd
Cake 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best VS I've done in ages. The moves keep coming throughout

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
John Nuttall 09/Apr/15 Lead
with Coel
amccann 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with India
Matt Harmon 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Marti999 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
ned_85 17/Jul/14 Lead
Gudge 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Spectacular moves - definitely worth doing!

Hidden 12/Jun/14 2nd
GermanAlex 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Wild, but somehow feels artificial despite being the direct finish.

with Jack
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
AshBash 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Mike
thetradlad 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Harry Thorpe 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
the power 29/Jun/13 2nd
with deacon
deacondeacon 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Jackwd 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Nigel Berry
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
SuperLee1985 09/Jun/13 2nd β
froglette 09/Jun/13 2nd
with johnpr
ColinD 09/Jun/13 Lead
with Keith
brownie mike 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
keith leonard ??/2013 2nd
Wyrdwired ??/2013 Lead O/S
john_ni 08/Aug/12 2nd
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Dovestone Tors equivalent of Almscliffs 5* finish but to Route 1. Not sure why I didn't do this when I did Route 1 before.

Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 27/May/12 2nd O/S

easier for the tall, who can go straight up if need be.

with Andrew Marshall
max_chan 26/May/12 2nd rpt
with Phil PCC
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
cem 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
keith Lonsdale 28/Jul/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 28/Jul/11 Lead
JEP 05/Jul/11 2nd O/S
joemallia 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S
smeaton 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with dusty
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/10 Lead

Great! Its a shame Route 1 wasnt climbed with this finish originally.

Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead rpt
keefe 05/Jun/10 -
with Tansy
jshields 15/May/10 Lead
mattparratt 24/Apr/10 2nd


ChrisBrooke 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/10 Lead

awesome exposed finish. well worth doing as the rest of route 1 is a waste of time past this.

Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Ketu 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Nigel
SR1970 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 08/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Emma Hawkins
nige pacer 02/Aug/09 -
john.gaffney 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Not sure I did the end correctly but quality route with loads of mantling!

with Peter Morrisdaboss
morrisdaboss 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Think i went accross to high, which is a shame as the next people up to a very dramatic line - next time!

with JB
adam carless 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

a gratuitous photo-op finish for route 1

with Jon_nz
matsavage 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 05/Aug/08 Lead O/S

.. So I was stood at the top of Route 1 in very strong wind pondering whether I dared have a crack at it. After what seemed like hours of shivering and tooing and throwing I decided I'd go for it, fiddled a 3.5 cam in back and forth trying to get the best bomber placement. After several failed attempts of trying to whip my left foot out to the left but it was just too far to do! Eventually, I jammed my right hand as far to the right as I could, and my left hand in the break. then I "Supermaned" out facing right with my right foot cocked up on the right, and pulled up and reached for the break above, got it hung it and stood up, scuttled out left only to realise there was no gear and I was just in a cave stuck! Eventually edged out back carefully and reached over to the thank god gargoyles! Top notch will have to try and do it in better style sometime!

Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 13/Jul/08 2nd β
with Harry Martin
max_chan 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim
richgibson 06/Sep/07 2nd
with John, Diz
Joe Dove 26/Aug/07 Lead
with paul
RichardMc 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Angel Vila
max_chan 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Steve
masa-alpin 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Adam W
Sidekick 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Different Steve 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Great route and a wild finish!

with Pete Krug & Louise Farr
GPN ?/Apr/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/05 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2004 -
Hidden 26/May/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead
cem 31/Aug/02 2nd
with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman
iskra2000 25/Jun/99 Lead
with Duncan Hornby
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set