2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The impressive brown-and-grey-streaked wall right of the central corner of Last Exit to Torquay. Start as for Gates of Eden.
1) 5a, 20m. Pitch 1 of Gates of Eden.
2) 6b, 25m. In the blank right wall is a thin crack. Climb to and up this to better holds that are followed right then leftwards to a steep right-leaning groove. Move up this to flakes and pull over out of the groove and up to a peg. Gain a slight groove up right and climb this to a pocket, peg. Move up to a further peg and make difficult moves to a jug. Finish direct up the wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Wood for Trees 01/Jun 2nd dog

not sport climbing

with Ferdia
ferdia 01/Jun Lead

have wanted to get on this ever since doing zuma. such a nice wall. abbed in to check the pegs. mostly look fine but all can be backed up with good though fiddly pro. managed with 2 falls. really great 7a+/7b climbing - especially the crux - but escapable to the arete at a couple of points. probably a good first e6.

JBO 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First E6, onsight. The first half is pretty technical, wasted lots of time fiddling in wires getting really pumped! Moved out onto the arĂȘte to recover after the hard move going leftwards out of the groove to clip the peg. The headwall is brilliant, sustained 6a/b on good but spaced pro.

Hidden ??/2012 -
John Mcshea 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 2nd
Toby Dunn 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Andy Reeve
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