12m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the face has a big rattling flake, a hand-placed peg runner and hard moves on rounded breaks. It is slightly escapable and also easier for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Graham Hoey 1983

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Ultimate E5 ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Iggy_B 25 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Is the peg in that rickety flake? I don't think I would trust that at all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is the peg in that rickety flake? I don't think I would trust that at all.
IainWhitehouse 19 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think E5 is fair, given the gear but it's not 6b. Not even a little bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think E5 is fair, given the gear but it's not 6b. Not even a little bit.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 28 Apr TR
Hidden 28 Mar TR O/S
josefft 28 Mar TR dog So close to doing this clean, reckon it would go with a bit more practice but not sure I'd fancy leading it...
with Alaina, Simon Denton, samkat
So close to doing this clean, reckon it would go with a bit more practice but not sure I'd fancy leading it...
with Alaina, Simon Denton, samkat
Gambit 23 Mar Lead rpt Second of my 10 E5s at 50 project. Headpoint but still harder than expected. Protection interesting and involved a nut key and a sky hook amongst others. Video at https://youtu.be/RTA8S-WkXh0 #10e5s@50
with OlI
Second of my 10 E5s at 50 project. Headpoint but still harder than expected. Protection interesting and involved a nut key and a sky hook amongst others. Video at https://youtu.be/RTA8S-WkXh0 #10e5s@50
with OlI
Gambit 2 Feb TR RP Opened my account, feels like it will go soon for the lead, strangely a bit warm. I thought the flake was no where near as bad as expected. Still a fall from the last move would be too interesting to spend too much time contemplating.
with OlI
Opened my account, feels like it will go soon for the lead, strangely a bit warm. I thought the flake was no where near as bad as expected. Still a fall from the last move would be too interesting to spend too much time contemplating.
with OlI
Hidden 23 Sep, 2017 TR dog
Marl 8 May, 2017 TR Dodgey flake on this route is now completely loose a d virtually detached.
Dodgey flake on this route is now completely loose a d virtually detached.
Hidden 7 Apr, 2017 TR
Miki the Red 20 Mar, 2017 -
Louishmouis 18 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
amccann 26 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
amccann 16 Oct, 2016 2nd β
James Oakes 16 Oct, 2016 Lead β Abseiled to brush and chalk holds and had a quick look at the gear.
with amccann
Abseiled to brush and chalk holds and had a quick look at the gear.
with amccann
Andy Peak 1 30 Jan, 2016 Lead rpt love this Climb, blatant head point. Laced the flake on the left side with resonabul gear, placed a poor 1/2 cam and a offset micro in the peg slot, glad I didn't test them:-)
love this Climb, blatant head point. Laced the flake on the left side with resonabul gear, placed a poor 1/2 cam and a offset micro in the peg slot, glad I didn't test them:-)
dr_botnik 29 Dec, 2015 TR rpt
deacondeacon 29 Dec, 2015 Lead RP Top roped then led. No pads, no side runners, no hand placed peg. I trusted the gear, but would probably hit the floor from the upper crux wether the flake held or not. Nice, steady climbing, probably only 5c.
Top roped then led. No pads, no side runners, no hand placed peg. I trusted the gear, but would probably hit the floor from the upper crux wether the flake held or not. Nice, steady climbing, probably only 5c.
Cake 21 Nov, 2015 - Excellent moves throughout. Lots of 5c, maybe one 6a move for a tall person. Flashed it on TR, then practiced about 5 times. All gear pre-placed and the good cam had a naughty extension.
Excellent moves throughout. Lots of 5c, maybe one 6a move for a tall person. Flashed it on TR, then practiced about 5 times. All gear pre-placed and the good cam had a naughty extension.
Hidden 21 Nov, 2015 Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 28 May, 2015 Solo RP Did it on a top-rope beforehand, quite glad I did too. Despite the fact it's easy those flakes are a long way below AND - most importantly - highly suspect. If you did come off I'd imagine that they'd be coming with you too! Easier for the tall.
Did it on a top-rope beforehand, quite glad I did too. Despite the fact it's easy those flakes are a long way below AND - most importantly - highly suspect. If you did come off I'd imagine that they'd be coming with you too! Easier for the tall.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 28 May, 2015 TR rpt
Nick1812P 21 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with amccann
with amccann
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17 May, 2015 Lead O/S technically not bad but wouldn't want to fall. never 6b
with Roisin
technically not bad but wouldn't want to fall. never 6b
with Roisin
Dave Musgrove Jnr 9 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Nic Sellars
with Nic Sellars
MysteriousCeorl 20 Mar, 2015 TR
dominic lee 8 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
ashtond6 6 Dec, 2014 Lead rpt Awesome, stupidly fell onto the hand placed peg first attempt
Awesome, stupidly fell onto the hand placed peg first attempt
Brian Rodgers 1 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
Mike Todd 1 Mar, 2014 Lead RP Dodgy gear throughout, glad I didn't have to test it!
with Brian Rodgers
Dodgy gear throughout, glad I didn't have to test it!
with Brian Rodgers
Hidden 16 Feb, 2014 TR O/S
dr_botnik 3 Feb, 2014 TR O/S Had to slap for the good hold, could feel the inertia of my body falling off before I realised I'd latched it! great moves, bit too bold for the lead today though, especially with how rattely that flake sounded
Had to slap for the good hold, could feel the inertia of my body falling off before I realised I'd latched it! great moves, bit too bold for the lead today though, especially with how rattely that flake sounded
Andy Peak 1 3 Feb, 2014 TR clean first go. good gear can be arranged. don't fancy the hand placed peg much but sideways nuts to the left seam to protect the lower section well, 1/2 cam top brake
clean first go. good gear can be arranged. don't fancy the hand placed peg much but sideways nuts to the left seam to protect the lower section well, 1/2 cam top brake
ashtond6 9 Nov, 2013 2nd
Kim M 1 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
with Nige M
with Nige M
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 TR
Hidden 9 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Dec, 2012 2nd
dannyboy83 25 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
with Dad
with Dad
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 22 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
with Katya
with Katya
Katya 22 Aug, 2012 2nd β
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 11 Mar, 2012 TR dog
davesykes 20 Nov, 2011 2nd Easier for the tall, esp on 2nd.
with eric
Easier for the tall, esp on 2nd.
with eric
mwatson 3 Oct, 2011 TR shunt
with shunt
shunt
with shunt
dodfoster ?Dec, 2010 Lead O/S Ground up, 2nd go.
with tom
Ground up, 2nd go.
with tom
Alkis 10 Oct, 2010 TR dog
oliver.ghill91 10 Oct, 2010 TR RP
BeccaSnowden 9 Oct, 2010 TR O/S Felt more like 6a. Would still be a scary scary lead though...
with Andy
Felt more like 6a. Would still be a scary scary lead though...
with Andy
Hidden 9 Mar, 2010 TR β
alaan 10 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S Bit greasy and blustery - took a long time to commit. Top crux is worrying as you really aren't going to get away with coming off...
with bex
Bit greasy and blustery - took a long time to commit. Top crux is worrying as you really aren't going to get away with coming off...
with bex
Becky E 10 Aug, 2008 2nd Weasled right of the first crux.
with alaan
Weasled right of the first crux.
with alaan
jugglingeek 26 May, 2008 TR dog Some dynamic moves and some disgracefully sloping holds. Way too hard for me really but I did make it all the way to the top with just two falls.
Some dynamic moves and some disgracefully sloping holds. Way too hard for me really but I did make it all the way to the top with just two falls.
Andrew Sloan 2 Mar, 2008 TR O/S
martroberts 3 Jan, 2000 Lead RP Top class route. Very nervous even with the success yesterday
Top class route. Very nervous even with the success yesterday
martroberts 2 Jan, 2000 TR O/S Only climbed E2 before trying this on toprope but got it first time. Did it another 5 times without falling and came back the day after to lead with Dad
Only climbed E2 before trying this on toprope but got it first time. Did it another 5 times without falling and came back the day after to lead with Dad
tuftynick ??, 2000 2nd O/S
with James Ibbotson
with James Ibbotson
Jon Read ?Aug, 1999 Lead RP
tmawer ??, 1999 TR O/S
with Kate Arnold, Jim Arnold
with Kate Arnold, Jim Arnold
Stoney Boy 14 Mar, 1993 Lead Top roped first
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
Top roped first
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
samt 4 Apr, 1992 TR flashed it on t rope!
with Rob Weston
flashed it on t rope!
with Rob Weston
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 35
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set