Rockfax Description
The thin crack splitting the wall has a desperate start and even more desperate moves to reach the wider upper section. The start is a good f6B. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, James' Winter Grit ticklist.

Cake 12/Sep Lead G/U

Very nearly onsight, besides having tried the boulder problem a few times.

with Tom from Hemel, Matt
Marl 05/Aug TR rpt
Andy Moles 11/Mar Lead
with Ferdia
ferdia 11/Mar Lead β

on andy's gear. really fun.

James Oakes 25/Oct/16 Lead G/U

Second go. Hard as nails, the start is fine as soon as you find all the holds but the moves up from the flake are just desperate! Ended up with opposing fingerlocks to move feet up and then just lashed to jug at the base of the wide crack.

will9911 24/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Tony Madden
deacondeacon 30/Jan/16 Lead G/U

Ground up over about four years! Opposing thumb sprays through the crux. Thank god I don't have to get on it ever again.

HarryBowyer 13/Sep/15 TR dnf
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead G/U
Neal Jobling 30/May/15 TR dog
with Andy Burr
benkelsey 21/May/15 Lead dnf

Flashed to the easy crack, spent almost twenty mins trying to place shit gear then lowered off, oops.

with Shaun Humphreys
AsleepOnBelay 21/May/15 2nd dnf

Yeah, still cant climb 6b.

with ian
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 25/Apr/15 Lead RP

2nd go to get the start this time but previously worked. Ace

Dave Musgrove Jnr 15/Apr/15 Solo

Nice highball!

Matt Groom 14/Mar/15 Lead
with Harry Lewis
Andy Peak 1 07/Feb/15 Lead dnf


with Andrew Deckon, phill ukc
PeteWilson 26/Oct/14 Lead

Mega Pumpy!

with Andrew Graham
Nick1812P 09/Sep/14 Lead RP

hard. couldn't commit to the direct start, so came in from the left then got greased off the crux so lowered had a quick shake/chalk up and went back up and did it in one go, v. tenuous moves and somewhat fiddley gear. A great route though, I'll definitely be back for the direct start.

with Matt H
Olli-C 03/Aug/14 2nd dog


with Swanny
Hidden 29/Apr/14 TR
sopaz 22/Feb/14 TR dog
Matthew Ferrier 11/Dec/13 Lead

Slipped off the start a few times using some bollocks glassy smear. Cool tenuous move to leave the flake, just a shame it's only one.

Teappleby 11/Dec/13 2nd dog
john lynch 27/Sep/13 Lead dog


with Tommy, Joe Holden
Hidden 27/Sep/13 TR β
Brannock 12/May/13 Lead dog

Woff, woff. Hard, many rests.

Marti999 17/Apr/13 Lead dog

Move off the flake is nails, or im just not flexible enough

with Debbie
debbie roberts 17/Apr/13 2nd
olllie26 07/Apr/13 2nd dog

Nails! failed 4 times on start. Managed to get up to second crux clean, then rested. Did second crux clean first go, probably fluke. Got to 5 feet from the top, pumped out of by brain and my foot slipped off the biggest hold on the route

with Kyle, Anna
Hidden 09/Dec/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Dec/12 2nd
pie_eater_pete 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 28/Apr/12 Lead β

Done the start before. Crux is the jugs to the crack above.

with Grant
GrantB 28/Apr/12 2nd
with Broom Dog
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
w.pettet-smith ?/Dec/11 Lead
with ben
tebs 27/Nov/11 Sent dnf

Couldn't make the move to the flake, tried about 4 different ways, came closest (fingers over the edge but not holding it) from a kind of powerful slap off my left hand in the break

with Jon
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd dog
mark20 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S


Brown 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Lilifa
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead dnf
riddle 28/May/11 Lead RP

Clean ascent on second try.

mikeyjbs 28/May/11 2nd dog
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 15/May/11 2nd dog
jon_gill1 15/May/11 Lead dog
Fran S8 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 14/May/11 -
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead β
Harry Chaplin ??/2011 Lead RP
JulesV 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Mike_Hayes 04/Apr/10 -
geddicakes 28/Mar/10 2nd
Mike_Hayes 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/10 Sent
Hidden 20/Dec/09 Sent
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead dog
Tony Little 22/Mar/09 Lead dog
with Dan
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 24/Oct/08 Lead RP
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Mar/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Feb/08 Solo
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
alaan 23/Nov/07 Solo rpt
DavidEvans 03/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with John Helme
Toby Dunn ?/Jan/07 2nd
with John
RossG123 ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 16/Dec/06 Lead dnf
petellis 03/Dec/06 2nd dog
with Alaan
alaan 03/Dec/06 Lead rpt

Third attempt in a year- went easily/quickly this time, absolutely fantastic bit of climbing. If only it was longer...

with Pete
Ram MkiV 22/Jun/06 Lead

Only 'just about dry' rock we found all day. despo. bouldered out start which took probably double figures of goes. nearly made the sequence up from the the flake to easier ground first go but not quite. Led it clean from the ground 1st redpoint ha ah. Seem to be falling off alot at the moment.....

with Tom
dan gibson 15/Apr/06 Lead RP
with helen gibson
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 08/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 19/Feb/06 Lead O/S
alaan 08/Jan/06 Lead dog

Will get it next time!

with Grant
Boy ??/2006 -
Mark Riley ?/Sep/05 Lead dog
RossG ??/2005 -
willackers ??/2004 Lead RP
with J.Bickerstaff
reg_measures 19/Mar/03 2nd dog

2 rests

with pete kenyon
Mark Stevenson 06/Apr/02 Lead dog
adam carless 06/Apr/02 2nd dog

A couple of rests while failing to figure out the sequence to the finishing flake

TBowell nee Holdsworth ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/98 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/97 Lead dog
martroberts 26/May/97 Lead RP

First real E2 6a. Had loads of goes at the first couple of metres with Nick and both kept falling off in turn racked up. Decided to go home with hurting fingers. Packed gear then thought I'd have just one more go with shoes on only and got further. Got geared up all over again and then sent it. Jumping up and down like an elated nutter at the top!

Bruce Kerr 09/Apr/96 2nd
with Robert Durran
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead O/S
nokishatov 01/Jun/95 2nd O/S
Roget 13/May/95 Lead RP
with jon
ste_d 13/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with mik
Stoney Boy 14/Mar/93 2nd
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
goi.ashmore 07/Mar/92 Lead RP
with Rich Lawrence
Hidden 07/Dec/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/91 TR dog
Hidden 08/Apr/90 Lead dog
Hidden 06/May/89 TR
mik1miller ??/1989 Lead O/S
with derek johnson
Billg 29/Mar/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Mark Kemball 11/Mar/83 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 15/Feb/80 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 36
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set