9m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack splitting the wall has a desperate start and even more desperate moves to reach the wider upper section. The start is a good f6B. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, James' Winter Grit ticklist

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UserDateNotes
TomPR 21 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes.
Jus 18 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off.
Fiend 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb.
Ram MkiV 23 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
shaunhumphreys 24 Mar Lead G/U Done the boulder problem before O/S to the top, good fun!
Done the boulder problem before O/S to the top, good fun!
Teappleby 24 Mar Lead rpt Few goes, had seconded years ago. Really quite tricksome.
Few goes, had seconded years ago. Really quite tricksome.
Holly Mckenzie-Barnes 24 Mar 2nd
Stuart Walker 31 Dec, 2018 Lead G/U Hands too numb on first attempt, great climbing!
Hands too numb on first attempt, great climbing!
Jonny Nick 26 Oct, 2018 Lead G/U
Hidden 26 Oct, 2018 2nd
NinaR 9 Sep, 2018 2nd dog Mega dog. Although did all the moves. Not sure how you'd not put gear in handholds though.
Mega dog. Although did all the moves. Not sure how you'd not put gear in handholds though.
Luke90 16 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U Tough! Took me several tries to work out a starting sequence to reach the horizontal flake and then hung around too long figuring out the gear and next moves so ran out of energy to execute them. Lowered off, rested, fluffed the sequence, lowered off again and then got it. Wasn't enough of a purist to ab for the gear or even pull the ropes between attempts so guess it's technically a yo-yo rather than pure ground-up? Even once the 6b moves are dealt with, it's no pushover. Worth E3?
Tough! Took me several tries to work out a starting sequence to reach the horizontal flake and then hung around too long figuring out the gear and next moves so ran out of energy to execute them. Lowered off, rested, fluffed the sequence, lowered off again and then got it. Wasn't enough of a purist to ab for the gear or even pull the ropes between attempts so guess it's technically a yo-yo rather than pure ground-up? Even once the 6b moves are dealt with, it's no pushover. Worth E3?
JayAyBee 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Great route.
Great route.
Cake 12 Sep, 2017 Lead G/U Very nearly onsight, besides having tried the boulder problem a few times.
with Tom from Hemel, LakesWinter
Very nearly onsight, besides having tried the boulder problem a few times.
with Tom from Hemel, LakesWinter
Marl 5 Aug, 2017 TR rpt
Andy Moles 11 Mar, 2017 Lead
with ferdia
with ferdia
ferdia 11 Mar, 2017 Lead β on andy's gear. really fun.
on andy's gear. really fun.
James Oakes 25 Oct, 2016 Lead G/U Second go. Hard as nails, the start is fine as soon as you find all the holds but the moves up from the flake are just desperate! Ended up with opposing fingerlocks to move feet up and then just lashed to jug at the base of the wide crack.
with amccann
Second go. Hard as nails, the start is fine as soon as you find all the holds but the moves up from the flake are just desperate! Ended up with opposing fingerlocks to move feet up and then just lashed to jug at the base of the wide crack.
with amccann
will9911 24 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
deacondeacon 30 Jan, 2016 Lead G/U Ground up over about four years! Opposing thumb sprays through the crux. Thank god I don't have to get on it ever again.
Ground up over about four years! Opposing thumb sprays through the crux. Thank god I don't have to get on it ever again.
Hidden 13 Sep, 2015 TR dnf
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U
Neal Jobling 30 May, 2015 TR dog
with Andy Burr
with Andy Burr
benkelsey 21 May, 2015 Lead dnf Flashed to the easy crack, spent almost twenty mins trying to place shit gear then lowered off, oops.
with Shaun Humphreys
Flashed to the easy crack, spent almost twenty mins trying to place shit gear then lowered off, oops.
with Shaun Humphreys
AsleepOnBelay 21 May, 2015 2nd dnf Yeah, still cant climb 6b.
with ian
Yeah, still cant climb 6b.
with ian
Hidden 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 25 Apr, 2015 Lead RP 2nd go to get the start this time but previously worked. Ace
with Twisty
2nd go to get the start this time but previously worked. Ace
with Twisty
Dave Musgrove Jnr 15 Apr, 2015 Solo Nice highball!
Nice highball!
Matt Groom 14 Mar, 2015 Lead
with Harry Lewis
with Harry Lewis
Andy Peak 1 7 Feb, 2015 Lead dnf Hard
with Andrew Deckon, phill ukc
Hard
with Andrew Deckon, phill ukc
PeteWilson 26 Oct, 2014 Lead Mega Pumpy!
with Andrew Graham
Mega Pumpy!
with Andrew Graham
Nick1812P 9 Sep, 2014 Lead RP hard. couldn't commit to the direct start, so came in from the left then got greased off the crux so lowered had a quick shake/chalk up and went back up and did it in one go, v. tenuous moves and somewhat fiddley gear. A great route though, I'll definitely be back for the direct start.
hard. couldn't commit to the direct start, so came in from the left then got greased off the crux so lowered had a quick shake/chalk up and went back up and did it in one go, v. tenuous moves and somewhat fiddley gear. A great route though, I'll definitely be back for the direct start.
Olli-C 3 Aug, 2014 2nd dog Nails.
with Swanny
Nails.
with Swanny
Hidden 29 Apr, 2014 TR
sopaz 22 Feb, 2014 TR dog
Matthew Ferrier 11 Dec, 2013 Lead Slipped off the start a few times using some bollocks glassy smear. Cool tenuous move to leave the flake, just a shame it's only one.
Slipped off the start a few times using some bollocks glassy smear. Cool tenuous move to leave the flake, just a shame it's only one.
Teappleby 11 Dec, 2013 2nd dog
john lynch 27 Sep, 2013 Lead dog ard
with Tommy, Joe Holden
ard
with Tommy, Joe Holden
Tradical 27 Sep, 2013 TR β Started on the left, sketchy all the way up.
Started on the left, sketchy all the way up.
Hidden 27 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Brannock 12 May, 2013 Lead dog Woff, woff. Hard, many rests.
Woff, woff. Hard, many rests.
Marti999 17 Apr, 2013 Lead dog Move off the flake is nails, or im just not flexible enough
Move off the flake is nails, or im just not flexible enough
debbie roberts 17 Apr, 2013 2nd
olllie26 7 Apr, 2013 2nd dog Nails! failed 4 times on start. Managed to get up to second crux clean, then rested. Did second crux clean first go, probably fluke. Got to 5 feet from the top, pumped out of by brain and my foot slipped off the biggest hold on the route
with Kyle, Anna
Nails! failed 4 times on start. Managed to get up to second crux clean, then rested. Did second crux clean first go, probably fluke. Got to 5 feet from the top, pumped out of by brain and my foot slipped off the biggest hold on the route
with Kyle, Anna
Hidden 9 Dec, 2012 Lead
Hidden 9 Dec, 2012 2nd
pie_eater_pete 11 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 28 Apr, 2012 Lead β Done the start before. Crux is the jugs to the crack above.
with GrantB
Done the start before. Crux is the jugs to the crack above.
with GrantB
GrantB 28 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Broom Dog
with Broom Dog
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
w.pettet-smith ?Dec, 2011 Lead
with ben
with ben
Hidden 27 Nov, 2011 Sent dnf
Hidden 29 Oct, 2011 2nd dog
mark20 29 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Desperate!
Desperate!
Brown 16 Oct, 2011 Lead
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
riddle 28 May, 2011 Lead RP Clean ascent on second try.
Clean ascent on second try.
mikeyjbs 28 May, 2011 2nd dog
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 21 May, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 15 May, 2011 2nd dog
jon_gill1 15 May, 2011 Lead dog
Fran S8 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 14 May, 2011 -
will6459 27 Mar, 2011 Lead β
Harry Chaplin ??, 2011 Lead RP
JulesV 22 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Mike_Hayes 4 Apr, 2010 -
geddicakes 28 Mar, 2010 2nd
Mike_Hayes 28 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 Sent
Hidden 20 Dec, 2009 Sent
Hidden 9 May, 2009 Lead dog
Tony Little 22 Mar, 2009 Lead dog
with Dan
with Dan
Wil Treasure ??, 2009 Lead
Wil Treasure ??, 2009 Lead
Wil Treasure ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd
Wil Treasure ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden 24 Oct, 2008 Lead RP
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 30 Mar, 2008 2nd
Hidden 19 Mar, 2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 9 Feb, 2008 Solo
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 Lead
alaan 23 Nov, 2007 Solo rpt
DavidEvans 3 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with John Helme
with John Helme
Toby Dunn ?Jan, 2007 2nd
with John
with John
RossG123 ??, 2007 Lead
Hidden 16 Dec, 2006 Lead dnf
petellis 3 Dec, 2006 2nd dog
with alaan
with alaan
alaan 3 Dec, 2006 Lead rpt Third attempt in a year- went easily/quickly this time, absolutely fantastic bit of climbing. If only it was longer...
with Pete
Third attempt in a year- went easily/quickly this time, absolutely fantastic bit of climbing. If only it was longer...
with Pete
Ram MkiV 22 Jun, 2006 Lead Only 'just about dry' rock we found all day. despo. bouldered out start which took probably double figures of goes. nearly made the sequence up from the the flake to easier ground first go but not quite. Led it clean from the ground 1st redpoint ha ah. Seem to be falling off alot at the moment.....
with Tom
Only 'just about dry' rock we found all day. despo. bouldered out start which took probably double figures of goes. nearly made the sequence up from the the flake to easier ground first go but not quite. Led it clean from the ground 1st redpoint ha ah. Seem to be falling off alot at the moment.....
with Tom
dan gibson 15 Apr, 2006 Lead RP
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Tom Briggs 8 Apr, 2006 Lead rpt
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 19 Feb, 2006 Lead O/S
alaan 8 Jan, 2006 Lead dog Will get it next time!
with Grant
Will get it next time!
with Grant
Boy ??, 2006 -
Mark Riley ?Sep, 2005 Lead dog
RossG ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead RP
reg_measures 19 Mar, 2003 2nd dog 2 rests
with pete kenyon
2 rests
with pete kenyon
Mark Stevenson 6 Apr, 2002 Lead dog
adam carless 6 Apr, 2002 2nd dog A couple of rests while failing to figure out the sequence to the finishing flake
A couple of rests while failing to figure out the sequence to the finishing flake
TBowell nee Holdsworth ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden 31 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
Neil McA 13 Apr, 1998 Lead rpt
with Sean Dougherty
with Sean Dougherty
Billg ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Oct, 1997 Lead O/S
steveb2006 18 Jun, 1997 Lead dog Fall off the desperate start a few times. lowering off. Manage it in the end but too pumped on the difficuly layback moves above and forced to rest
with Rob Gambles
Fall off the desperate start a few times. lowering off. Manage it in the end but too pumped on the difficuly layback moves above and forced to rest
with Rob Gambles
martroberts 26 May, 1997 Lead RP First real E2 6a. Had loads of goes at the first couple of metres with Nick and both kept falling off in turn racked up. Decided to go home with hurting fingers. Packed gear then thought I'd have just one more go with shoes on only and got further. Got geared up all over again and then sent it. Jumping up and down like an elated nutter at the top!
First real E2 6a. Had loads of goes at the first couple of metres with Nick and both kept falling off in turn racked up. Decided to go home with hurting fingers. Packed gear then thought I'd have just one more go with shoes on only and got further. Got geared up all over again and then sent it. Jumping up and down like an elated nutter at the top!
Bruce Kerr 9 Apr, 1996 2nd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
crossleysm ??, 1996 Lead O/S
Mike_d78 1 Jun, 1995 2nd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Roget 13 May, 1995 Lead RP
with jon
with jon
ste_d 13 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 14 Mar, 1993 2nd
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
with Andy MaCallum, Neil McCallum
D Tempest 13 Mar, 1993 TR
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Neil McA 5 Apr, 1992 Lead O/S
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
goi.ashmore 7 Mar, 1992 Lead RP
with Rich Lawrence
with Rich Lawrence
DanW ??, 1992 -
Hidden 7 Dec, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 1991 TR dog
steveb2006 8 Apr, 1990 Lead dog Very hard start then very strenuous
with Mervyn Dudley
Very hard start then very strenuous
with Mervyn Dudley
Hidden 6 May, 1989 TR
mik1miller ??, 1989 Lead O/S
with derek johnson
with derek johnson
Billg 29 Mar, 1987 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Mark Kemball 11 Mar, 1983 Lead
Hidden ?Apr, 1982 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 15 Feb, 1980 Solo
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
paul__in_sheffield ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 38
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set