The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
The thin crack splitting the wall has a desperate start form the left or right and even more desperate moves to reach the wider upper section. The starts are good and around f6B. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Bancroft 1976.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 21 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes. |
||||
Jus | 18 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off. |
||||
Fiend | 15 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb. |
||||
Ram MkiV | 23 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)