UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

9m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand side of the slab is delicate to a finish at a perched block. Low in the grade though protection is poor on the lower crucial section - there have been a few nasty falls here. © Rockfax

FA. Graham Parkes (in a school lunch break) 1980.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , E1's

Feedback

User Date Notes
pguilloux 27 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The lower part is unprotected and has some hard move. There is significant gear on the second half of the route. A good route.
Show beta
βeta: The lower part is unprotected and has some hard move. There is significant gear on the second half of the route. A good route.
Andrew Barker 23 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty standard E1 5b but that didnt't stop it from scaring me. I wasn't having a a great day, (maybe I shouldn't complain seeing as I was trying to solo everything) and thought I had to do something of note. Felt very reachy getting to the top two breaks and I really would have liked to have stuck some cams in them! Great route, great solo experience.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty standard E1 5b but that didnt't stop it from scaring me. I wasn't having a a great day, (maybe I shouldn't complain seeing as I was trying to solo everything) and thought I had to do something of note. Felt very reachy getting to the top two breaks and I really would have liked to have stuck some cams in them! Great route, great solo experience.
The Pylon King 4 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: E1 4c/5a bottom HVS 5b Top
Show beta
βeta: E1 4c/5a bottom HVS 5b Top
Ropeboy 21 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Felt very bold the first time I lead it but have since solo'd it with great pleasure. A great route and a good appetiser to the other routes on the slab.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt very bold the first time I lead it but have since solo'd it with great pleasure. A great route and a good appetiser to the other routes on the slab.
Dave Emms 1 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Poorly proected yes, but quite short, easy crux. Low in the grade I reckon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Poorly proected yes, but quite short, easy crux. Low in the grade I reckon.
Monk 17 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I wouldn't consider this low in the grade. There are several 5b moves and the gear is spaced. There are several moments when you could hit the ground if you fail. Having said that, the moves are excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wouldn't consider this low in the grade. There are several 5b moves and the gear is spaced. There are several moments when you could hit the ground if you fail. Having said that, the moves are excellent.
Tyler 4 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Scary and not at all low in the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Scary and not at all low in the grade.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Poorly protected. Not low in the grade IMO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Poorly protected. Not low in the grade IMO.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 135
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 130
Votes cast 123
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Millwheel Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)

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