UKC

100m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
150m. Something of an esoteric classic, this is worth doing for the situations and enjoyment of moving fast up a ridge rather than the climbing itself. There are a few fun sections of good climbing and the odd tricky move to keep you on your toes. There is not a lot in the way of fixed gear but there is generally just about enough to keep you on track. Start at a hidden piece of thick cord which is threaded through a drilled hole in a spike. There is a bolt 4m up which is easier to find than the spike. There aren't set belay stances and it can be broken up differently if required.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which leads you up towards the Grande Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and follow a smaller path directly to the foot of the crag.
1) 4c, 35m. Follow grooves and slabs to a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. Continue easily to a short, steep groove which is gained via an awkward little move. Belay at the top of the groove beneath a steep orange wall.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the steep wall and the easier slab above.
4) 5c, 35m. Continue along the ridge crest on easier ground to where it steepens. Follow a ledge system out left for 4m and then climb directly up a steep corner.
From here, scramble along the summit ridge easily to a notch and descend from here to the foot of the final pitch.
5) 5c, 30m. Climb the cracked slab and move left as the angle eases. Continue up easier ground to a bolt belay.
Descent - Scramble down eastwards towards the Pointe Gaspard and, after 25m, cut left (when facing down) and traverse across easy but exposed scrambling to reach the scree slope above the Floria drag lift. Descend this easily back to the foot of the routes. It is also possible to make a 50m abseil down the gully before pitch 5 of L'Arête Rouge and then scramble down from the foot of this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the obvious left arete of the large buttress on the right of La Grande Floria. Follow the bolts. Two reasonable grade 5a pitches. The last wall on the last pitch is 5b direct and nice climbing but can be avoided on the right. Abseil descent down the west face, 50m would probably do it.

Godefroy Perroux and Thomas Dulac 05/Sep/2002


ClimberDateStyle
Wendy Watthews 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with JakeB.
lukegorman 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Nice steady climbing that gets better as it goes up. Our ambitious abseil line back down didn't work, but luckily Jake was there to free our ropes while we relaxed in the sun on our ledge.

Julian Prieto 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
cliffy 10/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
jonesieboy 02/Aug/15 AltLd
abbeywall 20/Jul/15 AltLd

Led 2, 4 and 5. The wall on p2 felt the hardest

with K
mcaterina 11/Jul/15 2nd
tradguy 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/14 -
MrRiley 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

A good route, the climbing gets much better and safer after the first pitch. Managed this and Madagasikara in 4h45m including the descents and made the last chair lift down with seconds to spare. A great afternoon!

with Richard Hines
jcw ??/2014 -
maria85 29/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

First pitch is a bit of a badly protected choss fest. First 5a pitch felt hard for the grade, but well bolted.

with Ronnie
Hidden 29/Aug/12 AltLd
nvalentine760 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Old bolts and pegs, placed some gear

with Sam Burnham
Julli 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Noora S.
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd
Alexander123 23/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Watty 23/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with A.Watt
Rosie Henstock ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
liz j ?/Sep/04 -
with neil brodie
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
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