12m.

Rockfax Description
The steep centre of the undercut buttress is strenuous through the roofs to a delicate mantelshelf reaching easier ground and some fine flaky jugs. Be aware of suspect rock under the roof. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Hatton 1963

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 10/Jun Lead
PeteWilson 21/May Lead O/S

bit stingey. some fairly tough climbing with suspect rock and uninspiring gear.

Hidden 21/May 2nd O/S
foobar123 07/May Lead O/S

My first HVS! Originally intended to get on Bilberry Crack, but Ason led that instead so there was nothing left to do but go for this. Really good route with just enough gear and good holds when you need them. Nice mix of strong pulls and delicate mantles.

with Ason Chiang
David Chase 26/Mar 2nd
with Max McQuillan
superturbo 25/Mar Lead dog

Tricky, couldn't get any gear to stay below the roof. Moves fine once committed but felt scary. Tough reintroduction to grit after winter

with ADF
Andy Hardy 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Oct/15 2nd
Jmpollard 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Bit of a battle, tried so many different cams under the roof and eventually found one that looked okay, moves over the roof were okay, and then the mantels just kept coming!!

David_Gledson 05/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Alan
JEP 07/Jun/15 2nd
SuperLee1985 07/Jun/15 2nd dog

Jebus this was hard! (one for the strong which I am not). Essentialy a double mantleshelf problem. I found gaining the first ledge the crux. Good job Andrew for leading this clean. I just couldn't work it out. Eventually had to get a heel up, move my hands up to the poor slopers and then reach for the crimp with my right then (after a rest on the rope) palm down with my left, being my left foor up and then match on the crimp and make a very tenuouse grab for the right hand hold. Seriously pumped me out. I didn't find the upper mantleshelf so bad once i woked out where to put my foot but i had to rest again just because of pump.

benkelsey 24/Apr/15 2nd β
shaunhumphreys 24/Apr/15 Lead rpt
ralphio 19/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Had a bit of a scare. 5b to get up to the overhang. Suspect gear didn't give me a lot of confidence over the overhang.

with Rosie
Jack93 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Longsufferingropeholder 27/Sep/14 Lead
with C May
C May 27/Sep/14 2nd
with Nick, Tim
nick ferro 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Pockets for gear then easy over roof. Nice balancy move after that.

Pike 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Oliver
DanOsb 13/Sep/14 2nd
with Shaun
shaunhumphreys 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with DanO
Nigel Bond 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Mischa
fuzzysheep01 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Poor gear below second roof - bold.

with Graham Perry
Hidden 25/Jul/14 -
lanky and weak 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Candyce Hartley
Jack Whiteley 14/May/14 2nd O/S
TimG 14/May/14 Lead dog
with John, Jack
treg 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Took some faffing, but got there in the end. Great moves through the two roof sections and a delicate but easy finish. Probably 5b for the first mantle.

with Bird
David Kay 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Moritz L 10/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/14 2nd
Jimbo C 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Spiros
Hardcore Pat 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
mic_b 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Heidi
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd dog
HarryBowyer 29/Jun/13 Lead
Double Knee Bar 25/May/13 2nd O/S

Nails for 5a. I'd have said solid 5b on the first few moves.

Graeme Hammond 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Nathan
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Thought this was onsight but I may have seconded gav up it. Found it quite tough in hot, greasy conditions.

jwpil 07/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with Deacon
Lloyders 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Bones
waynem1985 29/Jul/12 Lead
stevelismore 26/Jul/12 2nd dog

Overhanging and pumpy.

with Phil PCC, Claire PCC
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead dog
hotfeet 26/May/12 2nd
with Tom Dudley
gripped01 ?/May/12 2nd
with Dave Tait
stuaart 14/Apr/12 2nd
with Neil Redgrave
Keendan 30/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Pushing the limits of my soloing, but the crux isn't very high and there were two spotters. Cool steep route on reasonable holds.

Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/11 2nd
AlexxelA 05/Jun/11 Lead RP

Really great first move and some good awkward bits further up.

Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd dog
gordonday 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Jack
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
jwpil 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Some seriously suspect flakes, but brilliant climbing.

with Gordon
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
AlexxelA 12/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Did first overhang move and then decided to retreat due to time and rain. Will definately come back as it felt do-able!

with Alex Williams
BeccaSnowden 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Very nice. Not sure I went the right way though. Followed the line of one of the pictures in the rockfax guide, which went up through the obvious gap.

with Tom
thomasadixon 02/Mar/11 Lead
with Becca
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
bigdrew 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Mark R
mark20 10/Oct/10 Lead RP

Ground up (fell off a year ago)

Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 08/Aug/10 2nd dog
with jim, TimG
funsized 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Caz Wilcox
Oliver Houston 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jtree03 30/May/10 Lead
with Brother Al
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead
Dale ?/Oct/09 Lead RP

fell off the second overhang went the wrong way. tryed to mantal on the large ledge on the right, instead of goin sraight up. Stupid. lowered to the bottom the climbed it clean. reachy moves after second overhang

Ketu 30/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
littleluke 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd β
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mark20 25/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Fell at first bulge

odox 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Leonie English
Hidden ??/2009 -
tommytwotone 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd
russonly 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Paul
Mr Powly 10/Feb/08 Lead
Daniel Armitage 16/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 22/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with John
Brown 17/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/06 Lead
cem 04/Jun/06 Lead rpt

Unseconded

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/May/06 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/05 Lead
uphillnow 02/Sep/05 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/05 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/05 Lead O/S
cem 30/Oct/04 Lead dog
with Ian Frith
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget 26/Feb/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/97 2nd β
Hidden 28/Oct/95 2nd
Hidden 28/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 28/Oct/95 Lead
leathers ??/1992 -
Mark Kemball 29/Nov/82 Solo
with Paul Clark, Paul "Curly" Williamson
Hidden 18/Jul/82 Solo
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set