8m.
Rockfax Description
Start at a notch in the overhang. Pull through the roof - hard - then climb the bold face above. © Rockfax
FA. Terry Bolger 1979.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| mr_johnso | 21 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Fairly shit/ no gear after rocking onto slab & till you get onto the top ledge, by which point you may as well top out. Definately groundfall potential if you arnt comfortable on these moves. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fairly shit/ no gear after rocking onto slab & till you get onto the top ledge, by which point you may as well top out. Definately groundfall potential if you arnt comfortable on these moves. |
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| steveb2006 | 26 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Crucial position in the thin crack for a finger tip or two to enable getting stood up in first break. Micro wire useful too | ||
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βeta: Crucial position in the thin crack for a finger tip or two to enable getting stood up in first break. Micro wire useful too |
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| nate | 7 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: Saw some bloke take a ground fall on it Sat, he was very lucky to walk away. Under grading has its faults, but this just a thin HVS 5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Saw some bloke take a ground fall on it Sat, he was very lucky to walk away. Under grading has its faults, but this just a thin HVS 5a. |
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| Tyler | 14 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Harder than 5a I'd say, can't imagine a VS climber being able to do this route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Harder than 5a I'd say, can't imagine a VS climber being able to do this route. |
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| teddy | 3 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Fair enough mate. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fair enough mate. |
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| Stuart S | 2 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Fine. Crescent Arete is HVS 5b. I still found it considerably easier than this route. I could also list all the E1s I've led this year which I found easier than this route, but what's the point? You're not going to agree with me or Simon, and we're probably not going to agree wiht you, so we'll all just have to go with whatever the consensus is with the voting system. Fact remains that personally, I found it hard for the current rockfax grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fine. Crescent Arete is HVS 5b. I still found it considerably easier than this route. I could also list all the E1s I've led this year which I found easier than this route, but what's the point? You're not going to agree with me or Simon, and we're probably not going to agree wiht you, so we'll all just have to go with whatever the consensus is with the voting system. Fact remains that personally, I found it hard for the current rockfax grade. |
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| teddy | 1 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Ever heard of widening the debate? I can refer to Paradise Wall if I want to by way of illustration. It is after all merely within one grade of our contested route. I have done a lot of VS's in my time as I am sure you have too. Thinking of tough VS's, have you ever done Samarkand at Anglesarke or Botterills Slab on Scafell - makes Jim Crow look like a walk in the park. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ever heard of widening the debate? I can refer to Paradise Wall if I want to by way of illustration. It is after all merely within one grade of our contested route. I have done a lot of VS's in my time as I am sure you have too. Thinking of tough VS's, have you ever done Samarkand at Anglesarke or Botterills Slab on Scafell - makes Jim Crow look like a walk in the park. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 1 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: What's Paradise Wall got to do with it? Just because that's overgraded doesn't mean that this is. I've done a lot of VSs, and I've done this, and this is no VS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: What's Paradise Wall got to do with it? Just because that's overgraded doesn't mean that this is. I've done a lot of VSs, and I've done this, and this is no VS. |
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| teddy | 30 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: No, just remember VS's are generally pretty tough compareed to Severes. Stuff like Paradise Wall just isn't VS and is better classified HS. HVS and E1's are definite steps up and should be respected as such. BTW, Whillans died in 1985 Stuart...check your facts!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: No, just remember VS's are generally pretty tough compareed to Severes. Stuff like Paradise Wall just isn't VS and is better classified HS. HVS and E1's are definite steps up and should be respected as such. BTW, Whillans died in 1985 Stuart...check your facts!! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 30 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: You mean when VS was the highest grade and included everything from VS to E-something? | βeta? | |
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βeta: You mean when VS was the highest grade and included everything from VS to E-something? |
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| teddy | 29 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: I woz merely using the name Whillans to conjure up a vision of the days when VS's were as hard as nails, unlike these nancy boy slabby E1s that some people try to use to devalue these 'real mens routes'! BTW Crescent Arete is HVS 5b and not E1 (more grade inflation). | βeta? | |
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βeta: I woz merely using the name Whillans to conjure up a vision of the days when VS's were as hard as nails, unlike these nancy boy slabby E1s that some people try to use to devalue these 'real mens routes'! BTW Crescent Arete is HVS 5b and not E1 (more grade inflation). |
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| Stuart S | 29 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Well I found it considerably harder than Crescent Arete. And what has Whillans etc got to do with a route that was first climbed in 1978? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well I found it considerably harder than Crescent Arete. And what has Whillans etc got to do with a route that was first climbed in 1978? |
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| Simon Caldwell | 29 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: If you think it's VS 4c then you're wrong. 'Grade inflation' is often just another way of saying 'grade correction'. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you think it's VS 4c then you're wrong. 'Grade inflation' is often just another way of saying 'grade correction'. |
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| teddy | 29 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: b*llocks - this used to be graded VS 4c!!! and still is in my opinion. Its comments like these that are responsible for 'grade inflation'. Just remember VS is a harsh grade...think Whillans, hemp rope, rain and hobnail boots....!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: b*llocks - this used to be graded VS 4c!!! and still is in my opinion. Its comments like these that are responsible for 'grade inflation'. Just remember VS is a harsh grade...think Whillans, hemp rope, rain and hobnail boots....!! |
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| Stuart S | 28 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Felt harder than most of the E1s I've done this year, and bold too, once you're above the roof. Quite pokey. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt harder than most of the E1s I've done this year, and bold too, once you're above the roof. Quite pokey. |
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Route of Interest
Flying Buttress Direct
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)