Rockfax Description
From the lowest point of the wall, climb the jamming crack then step left and take a brace of cracks. Hard work! © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1974

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

thetradlad 14/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Mark D 14/Oct/17 Lead dog
Andy Moles 19/Sep/17 Solo
Ilia Nadyrbayev 20/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/17 Lead dnf
Kirill 20/Aug/17 Lead dog
with Ilia
robgixer 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Charley
charleybaby5287 06/Aug/17 2nd
Ali D 06/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Completely brutalised. Arms melted in the sun

with Andy Stewpot
tim.fairhall 12/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Sachi
keitht 03/Jun/17 2nd
Alastair Hudson 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Keith
Hidden 03/Jun/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/May/17 TR
Ben Bransby 04/May/17 Solo
HimTiggins 23/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Bart
tebs 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt

still hard work

with Tim
JohnBotham 21/Sep/16 2nd dog
Hidden 21/Sep/16 Lead
The Grist 18/Sep/16 2nd
Luke Jones 17/Sep/16 2nd dog
with Steve Mead
SteveM 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Good god that was hard. More gear placed than planned, not all great. Kept going tho...

with Luke
Hidden 18/Aug/16 Lead
riff156 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Craig Preston
dewiturton 17/Jul/16 2nd
with keitht
keitht 17/Jul/16 Lead
Neilaw 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jim
Droyd 27/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Backed off due to hard start - must be 5c. Downclimbed though, so one to come back for.

with Fredrik Hansson
rajeshwarbisht 18/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Flavio
Flavio 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Andypeak 17/Apr/16 2nd
Brannock 03/Apr/16 2nd


Mark Stevenson 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
alp79 25/Mar/16 2nd
with Sam F
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Kipper-Phil Smith 13/Mar/16 2nd
with Shaun, Roscoe
Hillson 28/Feb/16 2nd dog
Hillson 28/Feb/16 2nd dog
PeteWilson 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S

hard start then quite juggy

Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
benlatham07 17/Oct/15 2nd
BTphonehome 23/Aug/15 2nd
with Tony
tmawer 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Bram
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead G/U
Gudge 16/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Tough going - definitely the hardest of the cracks!

DavidR 11/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Fell off early on, so pulled ropes and started again.

Hidden 11/Jun/15 TR
Pero 11/Jun/15 TR
kp64zl ?/May/15 2nd dog
with Julian M
cem 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Backed off it: too tired, hot & sweaty.

with Hervé Peter-Contesse
oread 06/Apr/15 Lead

Tried harder than on most E1's very good!

Sam McCarthy 20/Mar/15 2nd
shaunhumphreys 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S

pretty pumpy! well protected tho

john lynch 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Joe Holden
thehugehead 11/Oct/14 TR
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead
Phil_Hall_97 07/Aug/14 TR rpt
LoshkaK 07/Aug/14 Lead dnf

done on top rope. top route.

The Reaper 15/Jul/14 Solo O/S

On shunt - first try of the micro Traxion. Great thuggy training on this face, all the routes feel like hard work for their length and grade.

deacondeacon 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Stig 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 26/Apr/14 Lead RP

Yoyo'd. Brutal

with Chris Waddle
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
phillipwright ??/2014 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 22/Sep/13 2nd dog

Powerful and pumpy for my small body, and I wasn't feeling it :( Should probably return...

Jack93 22/Sep/13 Lead RP

Pumpy! I was ruined by the top! Slipped off near the start, pulled the ropes and did it this time. Make sure you don't traverse across too early!

vassy05 01/Sep/13 Solo
David Sherratt 18/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
michael burrows 27/Jul/13 2nd dog

stuck gear didnt help

Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead dog
judith neaves 30/Jun/13 2nd
Shaw Brown 30/Jun/13 Lead

Got pumped placing gear so took 1 rest. Crack seemed to small for hand jams but to large for fingers. Will be back!

migs493 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Stanage HVS

with LO
Chris Wright 16/Jun/13 Lead
Andrew Sloan 19/May/13 Lead dnf

Thought because I climbed 5b at Gogarth 2 weeks ago I'd manage this....big mistake, totally pumped after 10ft. lowered off!

bigbobbyking 19/May/13 2nd
with Chris Allan, Peter Hill
owenhancock22 20/Apr/13 TR O/S
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Richard, Owen
jon_gill1 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with big Si
Ali.B 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with RobertCanavan
jshields 01/Sep/12 2nd

Previous lead, '93/94

with Paul Tretheway
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead RP
gingerwolf 12/May/12 2nd RP
with Glenn
gregoritos 15/Apr/12 Solo O/S

way easier than terazza crack

Vincej ??/2012 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
The Bad Cough 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
John sealey 30/Oct/11 Lead
stuaart 10/Jul/11 2nd

Neil led. Hard work from bottom to top. Top end HVS I'd say. Slipped off the bottom bit through not doing it right (it is a layback...)

with Sandra McCabe, Neil Redgrave
Graeme Hammond 23/Jun/11 Lead rpt

hard work!

with Gavin Singleton, Richard Williams
Hidden 20/Jun/11 2nd β
pie_eater_pete 31/May/11 Lead O/S
with Niall
Ed Griffin 01/May/11 TR dog

Sustained and the step left is bloody awkward.

Hidden 01/May/11 TR dog
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
gnc760 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Freshers
Dan Geh 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Gareth Clendinning
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/10 -
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd dog
joese7en 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Andrew Sandercock 02/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with robert sandercock
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
w.pettet-smith 10/Oct/09 Lead dog

for the first time, and rather stupidly, i placed a nut, stuck my finger through the swage and hung on it. it really hurt. all in all, got a bit of a spanking.

Ketu 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Kirill 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
tebs 20/Sep/09 Lead dnf

fricking hard

with Ian
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd
Tim W 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Darren Miller, Janna Trevorrow
Mike_Hayes 25/Jun/09 -
Hidden 04/Jun/09 2nd
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Middleton
Dave Heaton 24/May/09 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
morganator 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
SR1970 ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Floris
Jeronimo 12/Oct/08 Lead dnf

couldn't get into the second crack, not that I even tried! A very hard route, it beat me even though I was feeling strong and confident. The only consoling fact was that Ben couldn't do it either. Bomber gear though.

mike fenwick ?/Oct/08 Lead
with Ian Moore
tommytuffa 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Felt hard, pumpy.

with Will
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR dnf
Hidden 21/May/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 21/Apr/07 2nd
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Peakpdr ??/2007 Lead O/S
with phill
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 06/Aug/06 2nd
Morgan Woods ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Gareth
dan gibson ??/2006 -
markbenton 21/Jun/05 AltLd
catt 23/Apr/05 2nd dog
with Neil, Paul Winder
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
MeMeMe ?/Oct/04 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/04 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Carl Smethurst 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Ian Pickles
chris sm 04/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Hidden ??/2002 Lead dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14/Feb/01 -
with Viv
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Hidden ??/2000 -
Martin Bennett 10/Jul/99 -
with Phil
Hidden 23/Sep/95 Lead
Stoney Boy 18/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with Neil McCallum
Daniel Wrightson 02/Apr/95 Lead dog
with Richard Bradbury
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead


Martin Bennett 17/Oct/93 -
with MT
Hidden 21/Mar/93 Lead
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/92 Lead
Roget 20/May/90 Lead O/S
with jon
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Neil McA 12/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Roy Ruddle, Martin Wilson
stp 17/Nov/85 Solo O/S
Tom V ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 03/Dec/83 -
with Kim Greenald
Andy Fielding ??/1982 2nd
with Mike Gilbert
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
andy gittins ??/1980 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set