Rockfax Description
Follow the right-slanting crack to its end and then continue up the bulging wall rightwards on green sloping holds. Protection is poor though it is possible (and sensible) to move left at the break to get good cams. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

tonto169 27/Aug -
adi bryant 15/Aug Solo O/S
PaulFidler 13/Aug TR
with jezmartin, Tracey Steel
Hidden 13/Aug TR
Gudge 13/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Aug Lead RP
PaulTanton 18/Jul Solo O/S
Jamjar 16/Jul TR dog
with Skyline
manwithacam 03/Jun Lead

Came across this wandering down edge, a lovely line. Good laybacking

with Mark Grist
dewiturton 28/May 2nd
with keitht
keitht 28/May Lead

Moved left at the top.

Hidden 14/May Lead rpt
GLO 14/May 2nd
Kim M 07/May Lead O/S
with Nige
joemallia 09/Apr 2nd rpt
with Mark Ellis
phil64 09/Apr Lead O/S


with matt dean, Rach
Ed Babs 25/Mar Lead O/S
with Brian Watson, Iain Moodie, Mike Hawkins
brian watson 25/Mar Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
maria85 25/Mar 2nd O/S

Amazing finger jamming. Went left at the break so without the top crux.

with Neil
pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/16 -
Gambit 01/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/16 Lead
Droyd 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Thought I was doing The Knutter, whoops.

with Fredrik Hansson
Tjogge 27/Jun/16 2nd
with David Boothroyd
daviesp2 15/May/16 2nd
andrzej kierzek 15/May/16 Lead dnf

Finished the crack. The horizontal break was too wide for cams that I had on me. Sadly, did not take m y biggest cam. Moved to the left and exited through the Knutter.

with Paul Davies
Hidden 23/Apr/16 2nd
David Sherratt 23/Apr/16 Lead
David Sherratt 23/Apr/16 Lead
Rob Davies 17/Apr/16 TR

Neil backed off lead. Cam 6 would protect top moves.

Richard Alderton 10/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Nic Ola, Liam
Dervey 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Nicola, Rich
nic_nac_doodle 10/Apr/16 2nd
with Liam
Andy Moles 05/Apr/16 Solo
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 28/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S
bencole 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd
Gudge 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best route of the day - really enjoyed this! Not that badly protected either.

Pero 10/Jun/15 TR
ralphio 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Cam out left as per guidebook

with Coel
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/May/15 AltLd
with Julian M
mike8331 26/Apr/15 Lead
shell145 18/Apr/15 TR dog
with Ursula
Hidden 17/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/15 Lead dnf
cdpuk 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/14 2nd
Lenny 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Isabel
rurp 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Three big friends in shallow placements at the top

with ben rowland, bill farmer
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
cragtyke 18/May/14 2nd
with john g
Hidden 10/May/14 Lead
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
WB 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 27/Apr/14 2nd
the power 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

topped out direct solid at E1

with Paul Hy
Paul Hy 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Phil T
metal arms 09/Mar/14 2nd
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
vassy05 01/Sep/13 Solo
LucasHarazin 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ColinD 04/Jun/13 2nd
with DavidS
ColinD 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Jo
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
chrisbussell 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
joemallia 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Paul Whittaker, Jill Whittaker
bigbobbyking 19/May/13 2nd
with Chris Allan, Peter Hill
Nigel Bond 20/Apr/13 TR
with Bern Hardman
Tamati 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
RM199 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
lcullum7 10/Nov/12 2nd O/S
woodsy 02/Nov/12 Lead
with tom
Dan_Carroll 15/Sep/12 Solo O/S
kermit_uk 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Woolass
jshields 22/Jul/12 Lead

Previous solo mid'90s.

with Roman Jivkov
jwa 25/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Peter Hill
mark20 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ahab 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Used cams to left, as suggested in EG, prob reduces grade to HVSish... Top's a bit dirty

Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Woodiee 06/May/12 2nd O/S

crack is the easy bit - pretty slopey up top!

Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
tebs 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Adequately protected and much easier than the neighbouring HVSs

Dan Mckinlay ??/2012 -
deacondeacon ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
The Bad Cough 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
jon22 30/Oct/11 Lead
ffdalton 29/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Got to the bulge, no cam for the break, went left up the Nutter to finish well pissed off. Ps the weather was f in cold hands like ice no friction.

with Dean Dalton
Matt Cooke 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Paul1 16/Oct/11 2nd
with Mikey
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
fatbuoybazza 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Camalot 5 will just fit the large break out on the left side, number 6 would be bomber..

Somerset swede basher 02/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Skell 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Neil R 23/Jul/11 2nd
with John
Brannock 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Soft for E1.

Hidden 14/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Jim Walton 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead β
willworkforfoodjnr 09/Apr/11 2nd RP

Backed off the lead, stupid because the top half is easy!

Ian Broome 29/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
PAJames ??/2011 -
APuddy 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
stuckonarock 02/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Charles, Karo
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Jamie
adam carless 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Dunc's mate Pete lead it. On a rope it felt easier than the two HVSs to the left, but the gear doesn't look great.

Cragrat Rich 11/May/10 Lead O/S

Very rounded at top. Kind of 'winter friction' vs 'being able to feel your hands' trade-off dilemma

Hidden 11/May/10 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 09/May/10 TR dog
The Mountain Goat 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
vanderz 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 24/Apr/10 2nd
PenJD 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
gw66 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Wee man
joese7en 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
MRichardson ?/Apr/10 TR
shed_hed 17/Oct/09 TR O/S

Went to check initial moves in preperation for lead; ended up soloing up until bulge for crux. Got stuck so got a top rope dropped down and completed the route.

with Jake Harrison
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Pete Graham 13/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Robbie Massey 04/Oct/09 TR
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/09 Lead
Sam W 18/Jul/09 Lead
Si dH 27/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Wasnt clear whetehr gear and holds could be used on Knutter at the top of the crack they were within reach - with them it must be a soft E1, but without, itwould be really hard - breaks are vry slopey, bulging and at the moment dirty. Good lead by Olly.

with Olly
Hidden 04/Jun/09 2nd
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Middleton
ellie macpherson 25/May/09 2nd
with mike henesey
Dave Heaton 24/May/09 Lead
Ben Sidsaph 24/May/09 2nd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
A Downing 18/Apr/09 Lead RP
with DJ
deejmonkey 18/Apr/09 2nd
with Andy D
steveb2006 13/Apr/09 Lead
with Roland Smith
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
morganator 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Stan Halstead
Hidden 05/Mar/09 -
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
Graeme Hammond 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Jay
stuckonarock 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Matthew
Jeronimo 12/Oct/08 2nd O/S
mike fenwick ?/Oct/08 Lead
with Ian Moore
brian watson 27/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/08 -
duzinga 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Jim and Guido
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
RossT 08/Jun/08 2nd
with Guy R
mje1398 18/May/08 2nd
with John M
Hidden 16/Feb/08 2nd
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Boy ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
dicky79 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Pete
SGD 08/Sep/07 Lead

great climb - good low gear and a poor cam higher up, easy climbing though as long as your head is upto it

with Jonathan
Neil Mackenzie 01/Sep/07 Lead dnf

did not get very far up the crack, must mov e quicker and put gear in where i can rest

with Lewis
Hidden 30/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Anthony Allsopp 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S

A perplexing 5a move that completely outfoxed me. Ended up shoving my whole leg into the horizontal off-width to gain any height. Cut to pieces and must have looked very strange!

with Clare Curling (My best buddy)
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/May/07 TR O/S
Hidden 10/May/07 Solo
dan gibson 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Joe Costello 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ben and Liam
Monk 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Don
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hammy 02/Mar/07 2nd
with Simon McCabe, Steve Hall
kingholmesy ??/2007 Lead O/S
with SteveOc
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/06 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/06 Lead
aulda 10/Sep/06 2nd O/S

Scary finish on lead

with Dave S
viking ?/Sep/06 2nd
with gareth
dominic lee ?/Jun/06 Solo
Mark Riley 28/May/06 Solo O/S
arin78 06/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Mark
Ben Bransby 31/Oct/04 Solo
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/Jul/04 Solo O/S
Smelly Fox 18/Jul/04 Lead β
with Slim Beam
Stig 16/Nov/03 2nd O/S
with Geraldine Lawless
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Ropeboy 26/Mar/03 Solo
cem 16/Mar/03 2nd
Chris Reid 15/Mar/03 Lead O/S
PenJD 16/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Jon Ascroft
chris sm 04/May/02 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/May/02 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14/Feb/01 -
with Viv
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Martin Bennett 10/Jul/99 -
with Dave Cundy, Phil
Coel Hellier ??/1999 Lead
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/98 Solo O/S

Done the crack several times but not sure whether I ever finished direct - might have always joined the Knutter

Trobbo 25/Jul/98 Lead
with john blower
babymoac 21/Jun/98 -
Pete Nugent 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
iskra2000 13/Oct/96 Lead
with Dan Bordoley
John Marsland 20/Apr/96 2nd
with Dave Mould
Chris Ellis 08/Oct/95 2nd
with Martin Veale
Scott McRae 13/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Johnny boy
Rich Kirby 13/May/95 Lead
with Hugh
duncan 23/Apr/95 Solo rpt
Daniel Wrightson 02/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Richard Bradbury
crossleysm ??/1994 Lead


Hidden 24/Oct/93 Lead O/S
D Tempest 10/Oct/93 Solo
with Rick
leathers 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Evans
The Reaper 13/May/93 TR O/S


Mick King 09/May/93 Solo
Hidden 03/May/93 Lead
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/92 Lead
Andy Say 28/Jun/92 Solo
Roget 02/Aug/91 Solo O/S
steve taylor ?/Jul/90 Solo
with stumpy
Rob Davies 17/Apr/89 Lead

Avoided rounded finish

with Angus McLean, Mick Moss
goi.ashmore 30/Oct/88 Solo O/S
sadams ?/Sep/87 Solo
with Mark Bonham
duncan ?/Jul/87 Solo O/S
stp 17/Nov/85 Solo O/S
John Marsland 18/May/85 Solo
Tom V ??/1985 -
babymoac 24/Jan/81 -
Mark Kemball 17/Jun/79 Solo
duncan ?/Jun/79 Solo O/S
jon 12/Nov/77 Lead
with Elaine
mikej 01/Apr/73 Solo
with Geoff Williams
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 56
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set