Rockfax Description
350m. Arguably the best route on this face, this is an amazing line which somehow finds a way through the overhangs in the centre with sustained but never desperate climbing. The rock is loose in places but the best rock is on the hardest climbing.
Approach - Leave the Index chairlift and go straight uphill, past Aiguille de la Glière - Lower Buttress to reach a vague path leading to the foot of a 30m high tower (the Gendarme Wehrlin). Go around this to the left (loose) and then go back above it and continue up until level with the top of the tower, at which point cut across the snow/scree slope to the left. Go over a rounded ridge and across another snow slope before cutting up to a col immediately right of a distinctive finger of rock (the Doigt de la Glière). Descend diagonally down and left for 50m on the far side of the col to reach a 10m long, narrow gully facing rightwards. Go down this and then descend gradually rightwards to reach the Pouce Cwm, which may well be a snowfield all summer but can be dry in late season after a hot spell. Cross this and make directly for your route. Allow 1-2 hours for the approach.
1) 6b+. Quite the start! Follow the slab to a small ledge and continue more easily to a large terrace.
2) 5a. Drift up and left to belay on a grassy platform.
3) 6b. Climb the steep slab up and right to another grassy ledge.
4) 5b. Head up a large, easy flake on the left then go straight up where this ends.
5) 6a. Climb the stunning slab via a few bolts to a small ledge beneath an overlap.
6) 6a. Traverse left following a line of bolts. Climb a steep step and then continue up the face above to belay beneath a corner.
7) 6a. Follow the corner to a ledge perched below the impressive overhangs.
8) 5b. Continue up the remainder of the corner and a short steep section on good flakes before making a couple of exposed moves right to reach a grassy belay.
9) 5c. Traverse rightwards under the overhang on a slab, which is slightly dirty. The belay is at the foot of some steep ground, below and left of the final section of overhang.
10) 6b+. After what preceded it, this pitch comes as quite a shock. Climb straight up and then make a steep, pumpy traverse out rightwards to belay on an arête.
11) 5b. Follow the slab through a couple of overlaps to belay to the right of a section of red rock.
12) 6a+. Superb, athletic climbing leads up a steep wall.
13) Easier, broken ground leads to the summit.
Descent - From the summit of the Pouce, descend the ridge eastwards in the direction of the Aiguille de la Glière. The first two large towers are passed on the left via a vague path (look out for cairns) around 50m below the towers, which takes in some unpleasant loose ground. Once past the two large towers, stay on the left until the ground steepens. At this point you cut up to the ridge crest and stay on or close to this all the way back to the approach col just next to the Doigt de la Glière. From here, descend the approach route. Allow at least 2 hours from the summit back to the chairlift. The ridge traverse back to the col is loose and exposed in places so don't rush. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great sustained climbing firstly on slabs and then through overhanging corners up the west face of the Puce. Partially bolted. VII-, VI+, VII, V+, VI+, VI+, VI, VI+, VII, 150m of IV. Three pitches of seven

Hidden 13/Aug/17 AltLd
Sam Marks 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Somehow ended up leading all the crux pitches. Nice line.

with George Newham
NewHam ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
darren hudson 30/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

1st 2 pitches but realised were on wrong route. Again! Whoops!

with David Ford
Tobias at Home ??/2010 AltLd dog
lukehunt ??/2008 -


with Will Sim
Hidden 19/Jul/92 Lead O/S
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