Climbs 140
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 118m a.s.l
Faces N

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Observatory Buttress Great Orme Wales © Franziska Hauk (DaV Hamburg)

Crag features

The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.

Approach notes

There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The nesting restriction applies to both Upper and Lower Craig Pen Gogarth.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  seal point
2 Doldrums
E2 5c **  
3 Crigyll Outlaws
E1 5b *** 8
4 Grip Master
6c *  
5 Banana Skin
6c+ *  
6 Xlendi
6c *  
Climb name Grade
7 Trail of a Tear
6a+ * 2
  Craig Pen Gogarth
9 Trophy Wives of the Astronauts 6c ** 17
10 Acrophobia 7c *** 9
11 Red Meat 7b *** 15
12 Red Feat 7b * 1
Climb name Grade
13 Death by a Thousand Cuts
6c+ * 2
14 Hoe Down
E2 5c 2
15 Eye of the Hurricane 7a * 3
16 Sara's Wall 7a * 3
17 The Ormesman 7a+ ** 3

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