Climbs 13
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Mike starting out up Tumblin' Dice © Rhythm24

Crag features

The mainland slab faces South: Half tide, but long beach acecss.

This is an area of slabs adjacent to the prominent offsure stack of Pen-y-Holt - easily seen when approching from the East. An antractive area which is 'disappointingly lose'.

Opposite the islet the mainland slab is in 3 sections, seperated by West-facing corners. A small, subsidiary slab the the West of the main slabs gives the first route.

Access to the rocky beach is either by abseil down the mainland slab (from the 2 new stakes) or by walking in from the approach to Pen-y-Holt Bay.

Approach notes

Car access to this rugged coastline is best from the Stack Rocks car park, walk West and over the 'MoD Access Only' marked red gate. There is an additional access point car park to the North-West end of the range, Gupton Gate, only open from 1st August.

All climbers must attend MoD briefing (three each year) and hold a valid MoD permit to enter the West range, after which entry is permitted at any time during daylight, at weekends and on Bank holidays only.

Bird bans and marked out by small red painted 'pots' with direction arrows, this infomation can be found on the notice bords in either car park, the MoD gatehouse and leaflets available from the two local campsites and Pubs. Most are lifted early Aug time.

The breifing gives all the details you will need to know.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Munchmallow Fantasy E2 5c  
2 'Ello, Sailor VS 4c 1
3 Whore on the Shore E1 4c/5a 1
4 Bayonet Practice Dummy HVS 4c 1
5 Honnycombe Delight VS 4a  
6 Door Jam VS 4c 1
7 Unsound Ethics HVS 4c  
8 Tumblin' Dice E1 5a 2
9 Doubful Indemnity HVS 5a  
10 Dubious Practice E2 5b 1
11 On the Loose E1 5a  
12 Door Post VS 4b  
13 Scrambler E1 5b  

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