Climbs 16
Rocktype Limestone

Faces N

Go West © deepstar

Crag features

The islet faces North: Half tide, but long beach access.

This is an area of slabs adjacent to the prominent offsure stack of Pen-y-Holt - easily seen when approching from the East. An antractive area which is 'disappointingly loose'.

The three obvous seaward-facing slabs are faced by smaller slabs on the islet between the stack and the mainland face. The islet has a distinctive keyhole cave on its seaward side and can be climbed down on this seaward side to the rocky beach at low tide and with an interesting and gripping traverse at high tide.

Access to the rocky beach is either by abseil down the mainland slab (from the 2 new stakes) or by walking in from the approach to Pen-y-Holt Bay.

Approach notes

Car access to this rugged coastline is best from the Stack Rocks car park, walk West and over the 'MoD Access Only' marked red gate. There is an additional access point car park to the North-West end of the range, Gupton Gate, only open from 1st August.

All climbers must attend MoD briefing (three each year) and hold a valid MoD permit to enter the West range, after which entry is permitted at any time during daylight, at weekends and on Bank holidays only.

Bird bans and marked out by small red painted 'pots' with direction arrows, this infomation can be found on the notice bords in either car park, the MoD gatehouse and leaflets available from the two local campsites and Pubs. Most are lifted early Aug time.

The breifing gives all the details you will need to know.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Simon the Bar Steward S 6
2 The Black Pig S 4a 6
3 Red Sunset HVS 5a  
4 Kilngons on the Starboard Bow HVS 5a  
5 Minor Immorality HS 4b 3
6 Pigeon Loft HS 4 3
7 Seaman Stains S 3
8 Master Bates VD 2
9 Bristol Fashion VD 17
10 Captin Pugwash VD 3
11 Pirate Willy VD 4
12 Passing The Port VS 4c 3
13 Little Harden S 4a 3
14 Slaphead VS 4c 3
15 Blue Klingon HVS 5a * 14
16 Jennifer's Daisy Chain *
VD * 10
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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