Climbs 293
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NW

Committing time © A Crook

Crag features

A fine sandstone cliff overlooking the River Mersey and the motorway. It is often driven past at speed and scorned by uninformed climbers travelling to North Wales. One day they should take the time to have a look at the place since most will be pleasantly surprised by the compact and clean walls offering some superb routes on great rock.

In winter the rock does turn green and slimey but after a spell of dry weather it cleans up nicely.

It should be mentioned that this crag was very 'unfashionable' for many years and the grading system left unchallenged for decades. Many climbs are poorly protected and dubious rock is ubiquitous. Therefore the grades may well be inaccurate. Feedback on grades and qualitative ratings would be welcome.

Approach notes

Lies directly above the town of Helsby: park there and make an "exhausting" scramble up the hillside.

Restricted Access

It is worth avoiding the crag after rain as the porous rock absorbs water - this causes the holds to become brittle...

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Are you a troll or a moron?
Alex Winter - 12/Jul/13
Get it bolted!!
m88ulv - 07/Jul/13
such a waisted crag, so much to be done here and no 1 to climb with... loads fo protection up the top for those workin routes or intending top ropes.. i actually like helsby although its quite green
phil_freeman - 19/Feb/10
flake crack was my second lead getting off the pillar at the bottom is hard but once done the route is fab allan
ashaw - 19/Jun/06
Agree with above comments, but as Alan Rouse said in his 1976 guide, top roping is acceptable here on the longer and harder routes because of 'the general lack of suitable protection and the occasionally unreliable nature of the rock'. However, he also said that when you get to know the place 'you can derive great pleasure from soloing'. So be careful but have fun!
Pekkie - 17/Jul/05
Yes, a really excellent place to climb but be aware that the rock can be quite brittle and at times, holds do break - I know. Good place to learn footwork.
Paul H - 13/Jun/05
The crag boasts some endless classics with all difficulties of climbing. Many people forget that there is a pretty good low level bouldering above the crag. They are no more than 2.5 metres tall but there are some really technical routes, there are enough to make a short film about (which is what we are doing!). Its also a great place to learn the basics of bouldering seeing as you aren't going to get hurt if you fall from any height. check it out.
Michael Gee - 03/Apr/04
Since the last guidebook, with more modern descriptions and E grades, there has been a resurgence of interest in the crag as a whole and in particular in leading. With careful consideration many of the routes can be adequately protected and can be of as good a quality as found on more popular crags
Mark Hounslea - 13/Feb/03
A fine crag to develop finger strength
alan edmonds - 11/Feb/03
What about Colin Kirkus
Andy Clare - 23/Jan/03
An absolutely fantastic place to climb, and really doesn\'t get the attention it deserves. Climbs are of all difficulties Severe-E6/7. I mean, look at the people that climbed there - Alan Rouse, Hugh Banner, Chris Bonington. Timelessly classic. A great place to build up confidence and very easily accessible
Jon Cooke - 17/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 ----------- East Buttress ----------- 
 Far-East Buttress 
3Wrinkled SlabM 3
4Halfway LedgeD 2
5Far Eastern TraverseVD 2
6Cobweb CrackHVS 5b  
7Torsion CrackVS 5a 1
8Millwall F.C.HVS 5b  
9Jericho WallHVS 5c * 
10Philistine's ProwlHVS 5a  
11Wall and SlabVD 4
122001none 6c ** 
13Space Odysseynone 6b ** 
 Undertaker's Buttress 
15Groove and SlabD 4
16Quarry Buttress DirectVS 5a 1
17Quarry Buttress Superdirect
-
E2 5c  
18Tyburn WallE3 6a  
19GallowsE2 5c **1
20Lynch Mob MentalityE3 6b  
21Corpse's WalkS 5
22Night of The Living Deadnone 5c *1
23Undertaker's ButtressS 4b **12
 The Nose 
25Stoic's Corner
-
VD 3
26Upper LipHVS 5b 1
27Upper Lip DirectE3 5c  
28Napoleon Complex
-
E5 6a ** 
29The NoseVD *5
30Nose GullyVD 1
31CinderellaHVS 5b 1
32OmegaVS 5a *2
 ----------- Central Buttress ----------- 
 Central Area and Marshall's Tower 
35Marshall's ClimbHVS 4c ***8
36Marshall's Tower EliminateE1 5b *1
37Slanting Chimney
-
VD 9
38Coffin Buttress
-
VS 5a 1
39Eliminate IIVS 5a 3
40Cemetery Wall
-
HS 3
41The CoffinHS 4b 3
42Tombstone WallHVS 5b 1
43Lookout Climb
-
HS 4b *1
44Zig Zag Climb
-
VD 9
45The Thingummy
-
VS 5a 1
46Spider Crack
-
E1 5b 1
47Green Chimney
-
S 4a 2
48Greenshield
-
none 5c  
49The Beetler
-
E2 5b *1
50Strength Through Joy
-
XS 6b * 
 Central Buttress - Middle Tier 
52Sculptor's ClimbHS 4b 5
53Chimney and Traverse
-
S *7
54Superdirect
-
HS 4b 2
55Direct Route
-
S 4a 10
56Super Duper DirectVS 4c *2
57Central ClimbVD *29
58Easy ButtressD 32
59The IllegitimateE3 5c ***12
60Carsten's AbortionE2 5b **11
61Brown's BastardE2 5b 3
62Downe's DoddleE2 5b *11
63Clockwork OrangeE3 5c ***11
64Technicolour YawnE6 6a **4
65The CorniceVD **63
66The Cornice IndirectS *22
67Mafia BearHVS 5a *2
68DeceptionHVS 5a *26
69Mossy SlabVD *28
70Gather No MossE3 6b 1
 Central Buttress - Upper Tier 
 Grooved wall 
73Grooved Wall Route 1 Direct Finish
-
E1 5a  
74Grooved Wall Route 1
-
VS 4b **6
75Grooved Wall Route 2
-
VS 4b *2
76Grooved Wall Route 3
-
E2 5b  
77Fat Man's Crack
-
VD 4
 Clashook Slab and Limpet Wall 
79Clashooks Slab
-
VD 4
80CrimpierV2 *2
81CrimpiestV3 2
82Limpet Wall
-
VS 4b **7
83Mussel Wall
-
VS 5a **5
84HiddenV1 1
85The pillar
-
V1 1
 Central Buttress - Lower Tier - Honeycomb Wall 
87Little LightMS 4a 8
88Blue LightE1 5c 9
89In the PieE1 6a 1
90Pigeonhole WallVS 5a *55
91Pigeonhole AreteE1 5c *17
92Crack of DoomVD 43
93WhimperE2 5c 13
94Wafer WallE1 5b **27
95Z RouteVD *27
96Z Route DirectS 4a 16
97Oblique CrackVD *43
98Muffin CrackHVS 5b *28
99Crumpet CrackE3 6a ***24
100Hades CrackHS 4b *18
101Wild Oat WallHVS 5b 4
102Two Step CrackVD 39
103Honeycomb WallVS 4c *23
104Nameless WallVS 5a 10
105Nameless CrackS 4a 18
 ----------- West Buttress ----------- 
 Clashook Gully - West Wall 
108Celerity Crack
-
HS 4b 2
109West Wall Climb
-
D 1
110West Wall Mantelshelf
-
S 4b *2
111The West Wall
-
E1 5c 1
112Un-named
-
none 6b  
 West Buttress - Upper Tier 
114Hemingway's WallE3 5c **3
115Late-nite GreenhalghE3 6a **1
116The Missing FontE3 5c 2
117Senile SaunterE1 5b *4
118West Wall ChimneyVD *23
119Windy CornerVD *16
120Windy Corner - The Nose FinishHS 4b *11
121DioperaHVS 5a *8
122EroicaHVS 5a 3
123Eroticanone 6b  
124Coward of the CountyE4 6a * 
125SpookyE5 6b * 
126Brandenburg WallE4 5c ***8
127Brandenburg Wall DirectE6 6c * 
128StingrayE4 6a *** 
129The ManglerE3 6a ***16
130Gorilla WallE3 5c *8
131Gorilla Wall DirectE4 5c *2
132Double TroubleE4 5c **1
133Sandynone 6b * 
134Evil Uncle Quentinnone 5c  
135Shoie McFeenone 5c  
136Overleaning wall
-
E1 5a 4
137The NotchD *103
138Tree wall
-
E1 5b 5
139Once Upon a Time (Arcograph)E2 5c *2
140Arco
-
VS 4c *6
141Terrace WallD 13
142Delilah
-
HVS 5b *1
143Why, Why, Why?none 6a  
144Betrayed by a WomenE3 5c 2
145Short Back and Sidesnone 5c 2
146Samson's Wall
-
E1 5b 4
147Greenteeth GrooveHS 4a 1
148Tyro's wallE3 5b 2
149Black Wall
-
S 4b *14
150C.B. Crack
-
VD **30
151C.B. Wall
-
VD 23
152The Squirm
-
VD 13
153Spare Moment
-
S 6
 West Buttress - Lower Tier 
155Cloister TraverseS 4a 18
156Chromium CrackE2 5c *42
157Golden PillarE1 5b **148
158The Overhanging CrackVS 4c *100
159AgagVS 4c **69
160The Mersey Runnel
-
E2 5c *3
161Cadaver Eyesnone 6b * 
162Hope Street
-
E5 6a *** 
163Magical CharmE5 6a *3
164CFKE4 6a **19
165Morgue SlabE2 5b ***76
166Mogadon's Good for YouE3 5c *2
167NecrophiliacE5 6a *7
168Time RegainedE7 6c *7
169BeatnikE5 6a ***22
170Desperation
-
E5 6b *1
171240 Volt ShockerE5 6c *9
172Twin ScoopsE1 5c **92
173The GangwayVS 4b *64
174Grooved SlabVS 4a ***218
175The Anvil IntergraleE1 5b ***7
176The Brush OffE4 5c ***46
177The Brush Off DirectE4 6a *20
178It'd Be Alright If It Was ColdE5 6b **3
179Jim's ChimneyE3 6a **21
180Little by LittleS 4a *248
181Oyster Slab Super DirectHS 5a *38
182Oyster Slab
-
S 4a 12
183Oyster Slab DirectVS 4b *47
184Oyster Slab Route IIIVS 5b *26
185Trojan CrackS 4a 28
186Trojan NoseS 4a 8
187Waterloo WallE2 6a *1
188Fragile Wall DirectE3 6a 4
189Fragile Wall Left
-
E3 5c *1
190Fragile WallE3 5c **28
191DanielE2 5c **45
192Wood's ClimbHVS 5a ***189
193The ResidueE5 6a **5
194Party BluesE4 6b *5
195Liverpool Lady BoysE6 6c **6
196Greenteeth Gully
-
M 68
197Hard Rock Traverse
-
V0 **1
198Twinkletoes Traverse
-
V4 ** 
199Swings
-
VS 4c 9
200Greenteeth CrackHS 4b 68
201Dinnerplate CrackS 4b **169
202Ho Ho HoE3 6a 5
203Twin Caves CrackS 4b **237
204PathfinderE3 6a *10
205Flake InnominateE2 5c *18
206Flake CrackVS 4c ***493
207Flake WallE5 6a ***33
208Foolish FinishE4 5c *17
209Licentious JugE5 6a *11
210Black Hole AreteE5 6b **3
211Calcutta WallE4 5c *5
212Eliminate 1E1 5b ***188
213CinemascopeE4 6b *17
214Easy ChimneyM 60
215The WendigoE3 5c **18
216Shoe-inE2 5b 9
217End CrackS 4b 106
218The Parasol
-
VS 5a 15
219The UmbrellaE2 5c *21
220The ParapluieE1 5b *9
221The Wart
-
E3 5c 9
222Angel's Face
-
E1 5b **29
223Ape's Crack
-
HVS 5b 16
224Gabriel's Garter / Ape's AmbleVS 5a **8
 ----------- Helsby Bouldering ----------- 
226Gaz's Gapeing GirdleV2 1
 Cashooks Wall 
228Western Roll
-
V2 1
229Right Shelf
-
V2 **1
 Overhang Buttress 
231Pillar
-
V0 7
232Roof Direct
-
V2 6
233Roof Right-hand
-
V2 9
 Jay'sButtress 
235Left AreteV0 26
236Steep Wall
-
V0 20
237Thin CrackV0 *27
238Diagonal CrackV0- 21
239Ledge Route
-
V0 16
240Another Ledge Route
-
V0 11
241The Nose (Jay's Buttress)
-
V0 11
242The Nose (sit start)V1 *10
243Cave Wall
-
V0 7
244The PinchV0 16
245The MantleVB *18
 Scoop Buttress 
247Left EdgeV0 23
248The ScoopV0- 30
249Arete and Mantel
-
V3 16
250Long Pull
-
V2 12
251Easy Pull
-
V1 18
252Flaky WallV0 15
253Green WallVB *18
254Sandy WallV0 17
255Black HoleV1 15
256Grasper
-
V2 8
 Pocket Wall 
258The Nose (Pocket Wall)
-
V1 ***28
259The Arete
-
V3 4
260Pocket Wall
-
V3 ***10
261Centre Route
-
V1 *22
262Right route
-
V0 13
263The StepV1 *18
264Green StepV1 8
265Green Wall
-
V1 2
266JugsV0 **7
267Ho-Ho
-
V0 6
268Lew's Traverse
-
V0 6
269SDS The Nose (Pocket Wall) *f5+ *** 
 Barrel Buttress 
271Helter Skelter
-
V2  
272Roll Out the Barrel
-
V3 **2
273Speckled HenV1 2
274Ron Burgundy's Mustache
-
V8 **3
275The GrooveV1 *9
276The BeakV0+ 6
277The NicheV1 8
278BitterV0 10
279Crank ItV1 11
280Harold's WallV3 4
281Left Overs
-
V1 4
 Long Wall 
283Left GrooveV0 14
284Left Wall
-
V0 12
285Two Egyptains
-
V2 10
286Popeye
-
V2 *5
287Martin's Eyes
-
V2 3
288Central NoseV1 6
289Hot Fuzz
-
V1 4
290Three Left Hands
-
V2 **7
291Right Nose
-
V2 *4
292Oliver
-
V3 **7
293ShuffleV0 8
294Right GrooveV0- 7
295Zig-Zag Traverse
-
V1 *15
296Artful Dodger
-
V4 ***2
297Atful Dodging
-
V6 ***2
 Cave Buttress 
299The Arch
-
V1 *7
300Green Slab
-
V0 3
301Archibald
-
V4 3
302The Grimace
-
V4 1
303High Brow
-
V3 *1
304Stiff Upper Lip
-
V3 1
 Traverse Buttress 
306Problem 65
-
V3 2
307Problen 66
-
V2 2
308Problem 67
-
V1 2
309Problem 68
-
V1 3
310Problem 69
-
V1 3
311Problem 70
-
V0 4
312Ramp Eliminate
-
V6 **2
313Problem 71
-
V0 4
314Upper Traverse
-
V1 *2
315Lower Traverse
-
V4 *1
316Left Pocket
-
V1 1
317Fly
-
V2  
318Right Pocket
-
V0 1
 Unknown / New / Awaiting Moderation 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond