Climbs 129
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 64m a.s.l
Faces W

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Direct Route Frodsham © jim jones

Crag features

Actually a series of small boulders up to 20ft high (mostly lower, though it may feel much more if you're trying a weird move round an overhang). A good spot for a summer evening's bouldering, but shrouded in trees and very green in winter.

Approach notes

Head W on the A56 from Frodsham (off the M56). Turn L onto the B5393. After 1.4mi the road turns R; carry straight on for 700m and park by a track leading L into the woods. Follow the track and turn L through a kissing gate just before the track enters a small ravine. Follow a path more or less diagonally through a new plantation to another kissing gate at the top. Go through the gate and drop down L. to the first buttress (Hoopla) after a few more metres.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Why wasn't my photo added too? I might sound like a novice here but how am I supposed to work out the routes, do I need a guidebook? Frodsham seems a good crag with nice rock of good height, with lots of types of holds but lots of overhangs.
Stani49 - 15/Jan/11
I would like to get in touch with Dave Johnson. Can any one help? Ian Jones
Ian Jones - 22/Feb/10
i love this crag and everything about it, the pics aint of helsby you plonka. such a great little boulder venue, that when you take a wee walk around it, turns out to not be so small after-all pleanty of problems to keep all climbers happy. well worth a trip with the pads, and there is even some trad goin on here to for those wanting short routes and loads of em to tick away at your log books... Afternoon sun thats the only down fall!
phil_freeman - 19/Feb/10
broke my leg here :( it gets pretty green and slimey
wig - 13/Mar/06
ive climbed here a bit its in tegs nose conty park near macelsfield its got bolts at the top
tegs nose - 27/Nov/04
Hi i think you may have missed a buttress out eg the one betweeen neb buttress and longbuttress i think its called changing room buttress it has a least 3 classic problems including green arete. i havent got the old guide with me to confirm this. also there is quite a big gap between hoopla buttress and neb which is a buttress in its own right. hope this may be of some use
dave - 28/May/03
The pics are of Helsby not Frodsham silly.
bubba - 22/May/03
Just a small point - for historical correctness both Dave's Roof and Mike's Route were climbed around the mid-80's, not 90's.
Dave Johnson - 06/Apr/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  St. Stephen's Buttress
2 Minute ArĂȘte V1 5b 3
3 St Stephen's Wall f3+ 23
4 Left Wall f5+ 26
5 Mexican Bob f6A+ 11
6 The Long Lurch f5 ** 55
7 Rick's Reach f5+ 7
8 Right-hand Route f4+ 18
9 Big Wall f4 48
10 Deep Crack f3+ 18
11 Twin Cracks D 22
  The Great Wall
13 Left Arete E1 5b 5
14 Tom's Roof E5 6b ** 1
15 Unknown E2 5c * 1
16 Left-hand Route E2 5c ** 4
17 Great Wall E2 5c *** 18
18 Iron Dish Wall E2 5c ** 24
19 Frodsham Crack VS 5a * 30
20 Unknown Wall E4 6a 1
21 I'm Not Driving a Mini Metro * V5 6b 1
  Cinema screen Buttress
23 Slanting Crack D 33
24 Slab Route VS 5a 10
25 Arete Eliminate
-
V3 6a 1
26 Cinema Arete VS 4c * 50
27 Birch Tree Corner S 4a * 77
28 Multi-Screen E2 6a * 3
29 Central Route E2 5c * 10
30 Cracked Corner S 4b * 61
31 Arete Route f5 * 75
32 Purely Arete V3 6a ** 9
33 Uber Wall V3 6a ** 8
  Cave Buttress
35 Cave Side V0  
36 Corner and Traverse VD * 48
37 Left Wall f4+ * 53
38 Crew's Arete Left-hand f5+ * 18
39 Crew's Arete f5 *** 72
40 Superdirect f4+ * 31
41 Superdirect (avoiding pockets/jugs) V4  
42 Crew's Lip Traverse V2 3
43 Superwall f5 * 52
44 Super Eliminate V3 3
45 Leo's Traverse f4+ 25
46 Ordinary Route HVD * 48
47 I Was a Teenage Caveman f7A+ *  
Climb name Grade
48 Hobart V2 1
  The Prow
50 The Scoop
-
S 3
51 The Twin Cracks
-
VS 5a/b  
52 The Prow
-
HVS 5b 4
53 Don't Use the Tree * VE 5a 1
  Long Buttress
55 Arete Route f5 12
56 Jimmy's Crack f5+ *** 28
57 Direct Route f5 * 46
58 Heather Wall Direct f4+ 42
59 Donkey Route Direct f5 * 14
60 Heather Variant f4 22
61 Heather Wall S 4a 22
62 Chimney Route f3 18
63 Tank Top f6A+ * 3
64 Sweater f5 * 14
65 Pullover f5 *** 49
66 Jumper f5+ * 6
67 Thin Crack f3+ * 65
68 Thin Crack Superdirect f5 * 17
69 Long Lip Traverse V4 6a * 2
70 Bizarre Roof V7 6c 2
71 Left-hand Crack VD * 86
72 Right-hand Crack VD * 79
73 Flake Route VD * 75
74 Tree Wall
-
D 22
75 Long Buttress Traverse VB 4c 13
  Changing Room Buttress
77 Green Arete V1 5b * 17
78 Central Route
-
E1 5c * 5
79 The Mantelshelf
-
VS 5a 33
80 Double Overhang
-
VS 5a 6
81 Left Hand Route
-
VS 5a * 36
82 The Right Hand Route
-
MS * 28
83 Direct Route
-
V4 6a 2
84 HIgh Traverse (CR Buttress) V0- 5a 25
85 Middle Traverse (CR Buttress) V2 5c 28
86 Original Low Traverse V3 6a ** 16
87 The Mike Collins Memorial Traverse
-
V6 6b 3
  Neb Buttress
89 Wall and Traverse f3 * 75
90 Intermediate Route f3+ * 79
91 Direct Route f4+ * 50
92 Neb Route f5+ * 31
  Hoopla Buttress
94 Pants f5 * 28
Climb name Grade
95 The Overhanging Wall f4 * 84
96 Colton's Crack f6C+ * 21
97 Dave's Roof f7A+ ** 6
98 Mike's Route f7A+ * 9
99 Pearce's Route f6A+ * 12
100 The Hoop-La f5 ** 118
101 Boysen's Route f5+ * 50
102 Banner's Route f5+ ** 49
103 Tradesman's Entrance f6A+ 15
104 The Overhanging Crack D 73
105 The Right Wall f4+ 71
106 The Mantleshelf V0 5a * 15
107 Make it snappy V5 * 2
108 Cave Buttress Sitter V8 * 3
109 Duckdoo Variation
-
S 4c 1
110 The Break (Hoopla) V0 5b 44
111 On the Bleach V1 5b *  
112 The Original and Still the Best V6 ** 2
113 TOASTB Right hand V6 * 1
114 Pockets
-
V1 5b 4
115 Johnson's Route
-
V7 6c  
116 Mike's
-
V7 6c  
117 The Collin's Crucifix
-
V9 7a  
118 Challenge Chadwick
-
V5 6b  
119 Tim The Tiny Landlord
-
V8 6c 1
120 Tim's Teletubby Scooter
-
V8+ 6c+  
121 The Ant Hill Mob
-
V9 6c+  
122 Musky
-
V7 6c 1
123 Catch The Pigeon
-
V7 6c 4
124 Penelope Pitstop
-
V6 6b 3
125 The Slope
-
V9 7a  
126 Foghorn Leghorn
-
V8 6c 3
127 Deputy Dog
-
V6 6b 2
128 The Pinch
-
V7 6b+ 2
129 Banner's Variant
-
V3 6a 2
130 The Leap
-
V3 6a 2
131 The Lower Break
-
V3 6a 14
132 Joe's Traverse
-
V8 6c  
133 The Indirect
-
V9 6c 4
134 The Indirect (alternate finish) V10 6c ** 3
135 The Crossthrough
-
V4 6a 1
136 The Ripper
-
V5 6b 1
137 Tellytubby In The Oven
-
V8+ 6c+  
138 Right Hand Crack
-
VD 4b 9
  Unknown
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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