Climbs 215
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 230m a.s.l
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Fern Hill © Dave Foster

Crag features

Cratcliffe Tor is in an extremely rural setting with a view out over tranquil farmland rather than distant moors. It is home to a small but superb set of climbs. The main event are the sheer walls of Owl Gully. Here the many breaks offer fine pumpy climbs often traversing out of the gully into impressive positions on the exposed faces. The breaks usually offer plenty of protection, though being fit enough to hang on and place it is crucial. Around the corner from the gully is the dramatic tall face tackled centrally by Suicide Wall. The recent felling of the trees that used to shroud the face have revealed it in all its glory - surely the finest wall in all Gritdom?

Located south of the main edges, and lacking much in the way of quality climbs in the lower grades, it is seldom busy, though the area is popular as a bouldering venue.

Since the vandalism in Feb 2013 please be very weary of the boulder problems with chipping - The exposed core in incredibly soft. It's going to take decades to recover.

Approach notes

The crag is situated in the central Peak, 5km south of Bakewell. There are two approaches:

1) - Park by the side of the B5056 Bakewell to Winster road opposite a wide farm entrance. Cross the road and follow the gravel track that leads to the farm but keep left up the hill heading towards the rocky towers of Robin Hood's Stride. Near the top of the track is a stile in the wall on the right. Cross this then turn right to locate a path leading through the trees to the foot of the cliff.

2) - On the minor road that runs from Alport to Elton, there is some limited verge-side parking by a stile in view of Robin Hood's Stride. Follow the collapsed wall towards the Stride then bear left towards the cliff which lies hidden in the trees beyond the corner of the next field.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Left my lovely green Rab pullover fleece here. If anyone has spotted it a private message and possible pick-up location would be greatly appreciated :D
kabutsu - 01/Jul/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cratcliffe Middle
  Middle Slab
3 Middle Slab f4 * 273
4 Middle Slab Right f5+ * 197
5 Look at Me! f7A * 102
6 Look at Me Sit-start V6 6
7 Look Right Left Arête
-
V6 16
8 Look Right f5 * 302
9 Look Right Sit-start
-
V5 * 180
  Razor Roof
11 Razor Arête f6C+ * 59
12 Razor Roof f6C *** 961
13 RZA Roof f7A+ ** 109
14 RZA Roof Right-hand Finish f7B 40
15 Cave Wall Left-hand f6A+ * 5
16 Cave Wall f5+ * 404
17 Razor Traverse f7A+ *** 9
  Right of Razor
19 Slab in the Middle f5+ 5
20 Crimps f5 4
21 The Blob f7A * 2
22 Green Lipped Muscle f7C ** 1
23 Thrutch Over f6C * 2
24 Blob Over f6B 3
  Low Slab
26 Low Slab Left-hand f5 8
27 Low Slab Arch f5 7
28 Low Slab Middle f4 6
29 Low Slab Traverse f5+ 7
30 Low Slab Right-hand f6A 8
  Top Boulders
  Squirm
33 Christmas Shopping f7A+ 1
34 The Squirm f5 ** 564
35 Scoop Arête f4 * 517
36 Scoop f3 * 489
37 Chips Slab f3 270
38 Leg-press f4 154
  Top Rib
40 Flake Problem f4 * 401
41 Left Arête Left-hand V5 28
42 Left Arête f6A+ ** 253
43 Top Rib f5+ ** 504
  The Blob
45 Blob Mantel f5+ 152
46 Wall Right of Blob Mantel
-
V0- 47
47 Bob Mantel f4+ 100
  Hidden Boulder
49 Suicide Bummer f6A+ 14
50 Hidden Arête with Traverse
-
V2 * 17
51 Hidden Arête f5 * 77
  Junior Boulder
53 Junior Flake f3+ ** 311
54 Junior Flake Sit-start
-
V0 ** 26
55 Junior Arête f4+ ** 281
56 Junior Slab f4 * 298
57 Junior Chips f3 191
58 Hidden Wall f4 136
  Last Boulder
60 Last Arête Stand Start
-
V0 167
61 Last Arête f6B+ * 83
62 Through Mantel f6B 65
63 Lip Slap f6C+ * 64
64 Johnny's Groove f6B * 135
65 Foot Tickler f4+ * 158
66 Right Slab f3+ * 212
  Pink Slab
68 Easy Slab f3+ * 277
69 Pink Slab f3 ** 663
70 Pink Arête f3+ ** 638
71 Pink Slab Right f5+ ** 399
72 Pink Slab Right (with Chips)
-
V0 207
73 Pink Slab Right (No Arête) f6A+ ** 155
  Blind Pocket Wall
75 Blind Pocket Rib - Left Escape V0+ 55
76 Blind Pocket Rib f5 * 378
77 Blind Pocket Wall f5+ ** 387
78 Blind Pocket Arête f5+ ** 351
79 Blind Pocket Traverse f5+ 85
  The Ramp
81 The Romp f4+ 80
82 The Ramp f4 * 271
83 The Ramp - No Hands
-
V3 * 47
84 The Ramp Trending Right
-
V0- 33
  Tree Boulders
Climb name Grade
  The Egg
87 Left Egg Arête f3+ * 316
88 Scrambled Eggs f6A+ * 23
89 Left Egg f5+ * 350
90 Eggy Scoops f5 * 469
91 Egg Arête Left f5+ * 154
92 Egg Arête f6B * 488
93 Eggs is Eggs f7B+ * 8
94 Eggs is Eggs - High Start f7A 43
95 Egged On f5+ * 122
  T Crack
97 T Crack f7B *** 257
98 T Crack Lite f7A+ ** 8
99 Mr T f7B * 4
  Below Jerry's
101 Slopey Green Traverse f6C+ 7
102 Green Slopey Traverse f6C * 41
103 Green Slopey Traverse (Footless)
-
f7A+ 5
  Jerry's
105 Robin Mantel f5 * 38
106 Little Robin f5+ 124
107 The Lark Left-hand f7A * 6
108 The Lark f6C+ ** 166
109 Optimistic Meg f6B * 19
110 Jerry's Traverse f7B *** 197
111 Jerry's Reverse f7B+ ** 6
  Serpico
113 Serpico f6C * 13
114 Shunting Biscuits f7A+ 5
115 Munching Biscuits f5 2
116 Tim's Flute f5+ 3
117 Marc's Scheme f5+ 2
118 Sam's Game f4 1
119 Les and Len f5 4
  Converted
121 Diverted f3+ 1
122 Converted f7B+  
123 Oatibix Flake f3+ 3
  Low Slung
125 Low Slung
-
V6 * 50
126 Lower Slung V9 2
  Tit
128 The Tit Traverse
-
V6 * 8
  Main Crag
  Hermit's Cave
131 Pregnant Man f6A 1
132 Plectrum f6B 1
133 Kilroy
-
E1 5c  
134 Burning Buddhist
-
E4 5c  
135 Creeping Friend
-
E5 6b  
136 The Nemesis Exit HVS 5b * 12
137 Hermit's Cave Traverse f6B *** 93
138 The Fence f4+ * 62
139 The Bishop f6A+ 55
140 Chip and Thin f5 * 84
141 Hermitage Rib f6A * 33
142 Tomorrow's Women
-
E4 6b  
143 Hermitage Groove S 5a 17
144 Sleight of Hand
-
E4 6a 3
145 Hermitage Crack VS 5a * 26
146 Hermitage Hand Jam f4+ * 41
  Upper Tier
148 Reticent Mass Murderer E4 6b *** 16
149 Genocide E6 6c *** 11
150 Hermitage Chimney M 20
151 The Variant HS 4b 6
152 Tom Thumb E2 5c ** 105
153 Enigma Variations E5 6a * 3
154 The Giant's Staircase HVS 5a * 176
155 No Peru E4 6a * 2
156 Magic Beans
-
V5 7
157 Bean Stalk E2 5c ** 154
  The Amphitheatre
159 Amphitheatre Crack M 10
160 Bramble Groove VS 4b 21
161 Bramley's Traverse HS 4b 8
162 Oblique Chimney VD * 33
163 Darren Hawkins' Invisible Neck E4 5c  
164 Elliott's Unconquerable HVS 5a * 118
165 Mephistopheles Exit HVS 5a * 4
166 Elliott's Right-hand E1 5c 19
167 Hey Turkey Neck E2 5c 6
168 Weston's Chimney VD 35
  Owl Gully
170 Escape/Boot Hill E3 5c *** 212
171 Trick or Treat E3 5c ** 2
Climb name Grade
172 Three Hundred Pounds of Musclin Man f7C+ *** 7
173 Percy's Cornflake f7A+ ** 5
174 The Groove E9 7b ***  
175 Nutcracker E2 5c ** 13
176 Fern Hill Indirect E4 5c *** 20
177 Fern Hill E2 5c *** 496
178 Owl Gully VD * 156
179 Tiger Traverse E2 5b * 22
180 Sedimental Journey E4 6a * 2
181 Nettle Wine E4 6b *** 38
182 Five Finger Exercise E2 5c *** 495
183 Liquid Assets E4 6b * 2
  Suicide Wall
185 Bower Route 1 HS 4b * 177
186 Direct Start VS 4c * 12
187 Pleasant Street f7A  
188 Renaissance E2 6a * 4
189 Requiem E3 6a *** 89
190 Bailey Bridge
-
E2 5c 10
191 The Long Distance Runnel E5 6c ** 4
192 Suicide Wall HVS 5b *** 1023
193 Suicide Wall Direct E1 5c ** 11
194 The Children's House E5 6c ** 3
195 Oak Tree Chimney VD 31
196 Stihl Life E5 6a ** 2
197 Sepulchrave HVS 5a ** 152
198 Mordaunt E2 5b *** 33
199 Savage Messiah E2 5c ** 152
  North Wall
201 Stretch Limo E5 6b * 2
202 North Climb S 4a * 105
203 The Little Greenie
-
E2 6a 1
204 Niche Direct VS 4c * 20
205 Oak Tree Gully
-
M 2
206 Pinchers' Wall f7A+ ** 2
207 North Wall VD * 14
208 Jimmy's Crack HVS 5b * 85
209 Invasion of the Cider Women
-
E4 6c 1
210 Invasion of the Cider Women Direct f7A *** 9
211 Samantha Muesli
-
E3 6a  
  Quercus
213 Quercus E4 6b * 1
214 Slot Ladder f6A 3
215 Edgucation f6A+ 4
  The Grimoire
217 Whose Line Is It Anyway? HVS 5a ** 14
218 Oi Grimer! E1 5b 3
219 Rocky's Revival VS 4c * 5
220 Bagu Yagu f7B * 1
221 Chess Boxer f7A+ * 1
222 Grimoire E6 6c ** 7
223 Bonfire of the Manatees f7A * 1
  Cratcliffe Woods
  Brian's
226 Brian's Private Arête f7B ** 18
  The Arch
228 Arch Arête f6A  
229 The Arch
-
V5 * 3
  Brain Dead
231 Smooth
-
V2 1
232 Rouge
-
V1 1
233 Near Death Experience f7B *  
234 Brain Dead f6B+ *** 109
235 Skin Deep V7 5
236 Little Arête
-
V3 3
  Sparrow
238 Sparrow/My Best Friend the Water Melon f7C **  
239 Sparrow Right-Wing f7B *  
240 Nymphs and Satyrs E1 5c 1
241 Thigh Master f6C+ *  
  Hueco Wall
243 Moss Ridge f5+ * 5
244 House of the Holey f7C * 4
245 Chapel of Rest f7A ** 37
246 Percy's Start
-
f6C+ 3
247 Wish f7A+ *** 85
248 No Hueco f6C ** 74
  Above Hueco Wall
250 Soaperstition f6B+ 6
251 Soap Doger f6C * 4
  P Crack
253 Seventy-Two f7A * 43
254 Seventy-Two Direct f7A+ * 12
255 P Crack f7B ** 9
  Beyond
257 Brother Lee Love
-
V8  

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