UKC

Climbs 213
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 232m a.s.l
Faces all

Fern Hill © Dave Foster

Crag features

Cratcliffe Tor is in an extremely rural setting with a view out over tranquil farmland rather than distant moors. It is home to a small but superb set of climbs. The main event are the sheer walls of Owl Gully. Here the many breaks offer fine pumpy climbs often traversing out of the gully into impressive positions on the exposed faces. The breaks usually offer plenty of protection, though being fit enough to hang on and place it is crucial. Around the corner from the gully is the dramatic tall face tackled centrally by Suicide Wall. The recent felling of the trees that used to shroud the face have revealed it in all its glory - surely the finest wall in all Gritdom?

Located south of the main edges, and lacking much in the way of quality climbs in the lower grades, it is seldom busy, though the area is popular as a bouldering venue.

Since the vandalism in Feb 2013 please be very weary of the boulder problems with chipping - The exposed core in incredibly soft. It's going to take decades to recover.

Approach notes

Park as for Robin Hood's Stride.

There's also limited roadside parking below the crag on the B5056 (SK 228618). Follow the track leading to the left of the Tor.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Left my lovely green Rab pullover fleece here. If anyone has spotted it a private message and possible pick-up location would be greatly appreciated :D
kabutsu - 01/Jul/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cratcliffe Middle
  Middle Slab
3 Middle Slab f4 * 220
4 Middle Slab Right f5+ * 156
5 Look at Me! f7A * 81
6 Look Right Left Arête
-
V6 13
7 Look Right f5 * 229
8 Look Right Sit Start
-
V5 * 123
9 Look at me sit start * V6 4
  Razor Roof
11 Razor Arête f6C+ * 57
12 Razor Roof f6C *** 808
13 RZA Roof f7A+ ** 92
14 RZA Roof Right-Hand Finish f7B 28
15 Razor Traverse Reverse f7A+ *** 5
16 Cave Wall f5+ * 354
17 Cave Wall (Left Hand Version) * f6A+ 6a * 1
  Right of Razor
19 Slab in the Middle f5+ 3
20 Crimps f5 4
21 The Blob f7A * 2
22 Green Lipped Muscle f7C ** 1
23 Thrutch Over f6C * 2
24 Blob Over f6B 3
  Low Slab
26 Low Slab Left-Hand f5 7
27 Low Slab Arch f5 6
28 Low Slab Middle f4 5
29 Low Slab Traverse f5+ 5
30 Low Slab Right-Hand f6A 6
  Top Boulders
  Squirm
33 Christmas Shopping f7A+ 1
34 The Squirm f5 ** 471
35 Scoop Arête f4 * 439
36 Scoop f3 * 414
37 Chips Slab f3 205
38 Leg-press f4 105
  Top Rib
40 Flake Problem f4 * 341
41 Left Arête Left-Hand V5 11
42 Left Arête f6A+ ** 220
43 Top Rib f5+ ** 433
  The Blob
45 Blob Mantel f5+ 113
46 Wall Right of Blob Mantel
-
V0- 36
47 Bob Mantel f4+ 84
  Hidden Boulder
49 Suicide Bummer f6A+ 15
50 Hidden Arête with Traverse
-
V2 * 16
51 Hidden Arête f5 * 73
  Junior Boulder
53 Junior Flake f3+ ** 252
54 Junior Flake Sit-Start
-
V0 ** 20
55 Junior Arête f4+ ** 226
56 Junior Slab f4 * 244
57 Junior Chips f3 136
58 Hidden Wall f4 110
  Last Boulder
60 Last Arête f6B+ * 67
61 Last Arête Stand Start
-
V0 144
62 Through Mantel f6B 51
63 Lip Slap f6C+ * 53
64 Johnny's Groove f6B * 119
65 Foot Tickler f4+ * 132
66 Right Slab f3+ * 171
  Pink Slab
68 Easy Slab f3+ * 215
69 Pink Slab f3 ** 567
70 Pink Arête f3+ ** 543
71 Pink Slab Right f5+ ** 348
72 Pink Slab Right - With Chips
-
V0 4c 173
73 Pink Slab Right - No Arête V3 ** 134
  Blind Pocket Wall
75 Blind Pocket Rib - Left Escape V0+ 49
76 Blind Pocket Rib f5 * 332
77 Blind Pocket Wall f5+ ** 346
78 Blind Pocket Arête f5+ ** 311
79 Blind Pocket Traverse f5+ 64
  The Ramp
81 The Romp f4+ 60
82 The Ramp f4 * 241
83 The Ramp - No Hands
-
V3 * 37
84 The Ramp Trending Right
-
V0- 28
  Tree Boulders
Climb name Grade
  The Egg
87 Left Egg Arête f3+ * 240
88 Scrambled Eggs f6A+ * 16
89 Left Egg f5+ * 296
90 Eggy Scoops f5 * 387
91 Egg Arête Left f5+ * 121
92 Egg Arete f6B * 396
93 Eggs is Eggs f7B+ * 8
94 Eggs is Eggs - Easier Start V6 41
95 Egged On f5+ * 116
  T Crack
97 T Crack f7B *** 212
98 Mr T f7B * 3
99 T Crack Slab f7A+ ** 3
  Below Jerry's
101 Slopey Green Traverse f6C+ 7
102 Green Slopey Traverse f6C * 35
103 Green slopey traverse (footless)
-
f7A+ 1
  Jerry's
105 Robin Mantel f5 * 24
106 Little Robin f5+ 102
107 The Lark f6C+ ** 131
108 The Lark Left-Hand f7A * 3
109 Optimistic Meg f6B * 13
110 Jerry's Traverse f7B *** 172
111 Jerry's Reverse f7B+ ** 3
  Serpico
113 Serpico f6C * 12
114 Shunting Biscuits f7A+ 2
115 Munching Biscuits f5 2
116 Tim's Flute f5+ 3
117 Marc's Scheme f5+ 2
118 Les and Len f5 4
119 Sam's Game f4 1
  Converted
121 Diverted f3+ 1
122 Converted f7B+  
123 Oatibix Flake f3+ 3
  Low Slung
125 Low Slung
-
V6 * 42
126 Lower Slung V9 1
  Tit
128 The Tit Traverse
-
V6 * 8
  Main Crag
  Hermit's Cave
131 Kilroy
-
E1 5c  
132 The Nemesis Exit HVS 5b * 12
133 Burning Buddhist
-
E4 5c  
134 Creeping Friend
-
E5 6b  
135 Hermit's Cave Traverse f6B *** 83
136 The Fence f4+ * 46
137 The Bishop f6A+ 43
138 Chip and Thin f5 * 65
139 Hermitage Rib f6A * 21
140 Hermitage Groove S 5a 17
141 Tomorrow's Women
-
E4 6b  
142 Sleight of Hand
-
E4 6a 3
143 Hermitage Crack VS 5a * 26
144 Hermitage Hand Jam f4+ * 29
  Upper Tier
146 Reticent Mass Murderer E4 6b *** 16
147 Genocide E6 6c *** 11
148 Hermitage Chimney M 19
149 The Variant HS 4b 7
150 Tom Thumb E2 5c ** 98
151 Enigma Variations E5 6a * 3
152 The Giant's Staircase HVS 5a * 151
153 No Peru E4 6a * 2
154 Magic Beans
-
V5 7
155 Beanstalk E2 5c ** 144
  The Amphitheatre
157 Amphitheatre Crack M 10
158 Bramble Groove VS 4b 22
159 Bramley's Traverse HS 4b 9
160 Oblique Chimney VD * 32
161 Darren Hawkins' Invisible Neck E4 5c  
162 Elliott's Unconquerable HVS 5a * 106
163 Mephistopheles Exit HVS 5a * 3
164 Elliott's Right-Hand E1 5c 18
165 Hey Turkey Neck E2 5c 5
166 Weston's Chimney VD 36
  Owl Gully
168 Escape/Boot Hill E3 5c *** 199
169 Trick or Treat E3 5c ** 1
170 Three Hundred Pounds of Musclin Man f7C+ *** 4
171 Percy's Cornflake f7A+ ** 3
Climb name Grade
172 The Groove E9 7b ***  
173 Nutcracker E2 5c ** 13
174 Fern Hill Indirect E4 5c *** 19
175 Fern Hill E2 5c *** 450
176 Owl Gully VD * 145
177 Tiger Traverse E2 5b * 20
178 Sedimental Journey E4 6a * 2
179 Nettle Wine E4 6b *** 36
180 Five Finger Exercise E2 5c *** 429
181 Liquid Assets E4 6b * 1
  Suicide Wall
183 Bower Route 1 HS 4b * 165
184 Direct Start VS 4c * 7
185 Pleasant Street f7A  
186 Renaissance E2 6a * 4
187 Requiem E3 6a *** 72
188 Bailey Bridge
-
E2 5c 8
189 The Long Distance Runnel E5 6c ** 3
190 Suicide Wall HVS 5b *** 904
191 Suicide Wall Direct E1 5c ** 8
192 The Children's House E5 6c ** 3
193 Oak Tree Chimney VD 31
194 Stihl Life E5 6a ** 2
195 Sepulchrave HVS 5a ** 133
196 Mordaunt E2 5b *** 32
197 Savage Messiah E2 5c ** 139
  North Wall
199 Stretch Limo E5 6b * 2
200 North Climb S 4a * 100
201 The Little Greenie
-
E2 6a 1
202 Niche Direct VS 4c * 17
203 Oak Tree Gully
-
M 3
204 Pinchers' Wall f7A+ ** 2
205 North Wall VD * 13
206 Jimmy's Crack HVS 5b * 78
207 Invasion of the Cider Women
-
E4 6c 1
208 Invasion of the Cider Women Direct f7A *** 8
209 Samantha Muesli
-
E3 6a  
  Quercus
211 Quercus E4 6b * 1
212 Slot Ladder f6A 3
213 Edgucation f6A+ 4
  The Grimoire
215 Whose Line Is It Anyway? HVS 5a ** 12
216 Rocky's Revival VS 4c * 4
217 Oi Grimer! E1 5b 3
218 Bagu Yagu f7B * 1
219 Chess Boxer f7A+ * 1
220 Grimoire E6 6c ** 7
221 Bonfire of the Manatees f7A * 1
  Sparrow
223 Sparrow/My Best Friend the Water Melon f7C **  
224 Sparrow Right-Wing f7B *  
225 Nymphs and Satyrs E1 5c 1
226 Thigh Master f6C+ *  
  Cratcliffe Woods
  The Arch
229 Arch Arête f6A  
230 The Arch
-
V5 * 3
  Brian's
232 Brian's Private Arête f7B ** 16
  Brain Dead
234 Smooth
-
V2  
235 Rouge
-
V1  
236 Near Death Experience f7B *  
237 Brain Dead f6B+ *** 92
238 Skin Deep V7 2
239 Little Arête
-
V3  
  Hueco
241 Moss Ridge f5+ * 1
242 House of the Holey f7C * 4
243 Chapel of Rest f7A ** 34
244 Wish f7A+ *** 75
245 No Hueco f6C ** 64
246 Percy's start
-
f6C+ 1
  Above Hueco
248 Soaperstition f6B+ 6
249 Soap Doger f6C * 4
  P Crack
251 Seventy-Two f7A * 32
252 Seventy-Two Direct f7A+ * 8
253 P Crack f7B ** 6
  Beyond
255 Brother Lee Love
-
V8  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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