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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 217
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 230m a.s.l
Faces all

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Fern Hill © Dave Foster

Crag features

Cratcliffe Tor is in an extremely rural setting with a view out over tranquil farmland rather than distant moors. It is home to a small but superb set of climbs. The main event are the sheer walls of Owl Gully. Here the many breaks offer fine pumpy climbs often traversing out of the gully into impressive positions on the exposed faces. The breaks usually offer plenty of protection, though being fit enough to hang on and place it is crucial. Around the corner from the gully is the dramatic tall face tackled centrally by Suicide Wall. The recent felling of the trees that used to shroud the face have revealed it in all its glory - surely the finest wall in all Gritdom?

Located south of the main edges, and lacking much in the way of quality climbs in the lower grades, it is seldom busy, though the area is popular as a bouldering venue.

Since the vandalism in Feb 2013 please be very weary of the boulder problems with chipping - The exposed core in incredibly soft. It's going to take decades to recover.

Approach notes

The crag is situated in the central Peak, 5km south of Bakewell. There are two approaches:

1) - Park by the side of the B5056 Bakewell to Winster road opposite a wide farm entrance. Cross the road and follow the gravel track that leads to the farm but keep left up the hill heading towards the rocky towers of Robin Hood's Stride. Near the top of the track is a stile in the wall on the right. Cross this then turn right to locate a path leading through the trees to the foot of the cliff.

2) - On the minor road that runs from Alport to Elton, there is some limited verge-side parking by a stile in view of Robin Hood's Stride. Follow the collapsed wall towards the Stride then bear left towards the cliff which lies hidden in the trees beyond the corner of the next field.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Left my lovely green Rab pullover fleece here. If anyone has spotted it a private message and possible pick-up location would be greatly appreciated :D
kabutsu - 01/Jul/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cratcliffe Middle
  Middle Slab
3 Middle Slab f4 * 289
4 Middle Slab Right f5+ * 210
5 Look at Me! f7A * 116
6 Look at Me! Sit-start V6 12
7 Look Right Left Arête
-
V6 21
8 Look Right f5 * 329
9 Look Right Sit-start
-
V5 * 201
  Razor Roof
11 Razor Arête f6C+ * 72
12 Razor Roof f6C *** 1033
13 RZA Roof f7A+ ** 124
14 RZA Roof Right-hand Finish f7B 47
15 Cave Wall Left-hand f6A+ * 11
16 Cave Wall f5+ * 419
17 Razor Traverse f7A+ *** 14
  Right of Razor
19 Slab in the Middle f5+ 9
20 Crimps f5 8
21 The Blob f7A * 7
22 Green Lipped Muscle f7C ** 1
23 Thrutch Over f6C * 5
24 Blob Over f6B 6
  Low Slab
26 Low Slab Left-hand f5 11
27 Low Slab Arch f5 10
28 Low Slab Middle f4 9
29 Low Slab Traverse f5+ 10
30 Low Slab Right-hand f6A 11
  Top Boulders
  Squirm
33 Christmas Shopping f7A+ 4
34 The Squirm f5 ** 578
35 Scoop Arête f4 * 527
36 Scoop f3 * 500
37 Chips Slab f3 284
38 Leg-press f4 166
  Top Rib
40 Flake Problem f4 * 422
41 Left Arête Left-hand V5 33
42 Left Arête f6A+ ** 269
43 Top Rib f5+ ** 532
  The Blob
45 Blob Mantel f5+ 160
46 Wall Right of Blob Mantel
-
V0- 52
47 Bob Mantel f4+ 107
  Hidden Boulder
49 Suicide Bummer f6A+ 18
50 Hidden Arête with Traverse
-
V2 * 21
51 Hidden Arête f5 * 82
  Junior Boulder
53 Junior Flake f3+ ** 323
54 Junior Flake Sit-start
-
V0 ** 32
55 Junior Arête f4+ ** 292
56 Junior Slab f4 * 312
57 Junior Chips f3 201
58 Hidden Wall f4 145
  Last Boulder
60 Last Arête Stand Start
-
V0 178
61 Last Arête f6B+ * 89
62 Through Mantel f6B 77
63 Lip Slap f6C+ * 74
64 Johnny's Groove f6B * 139
65 Foot Tickler f4+ * 171
66 Right Slab f3+ * 224
  Pink Slab
68 Easy Slab f3+ * 298
69 Pink Slab f3 ** 696
70 Pink Arête f3+ ** 669
71 Pink Slab Right f5+ ** 420
72 Pink Slab Right (with Chips)
-
V0 220
73 Pink Slab Right (No Arête) f6A+ ** 166
  Blind Pocket Wall
75 Blind Pocket Rib - Left Escape V0+ 63
76 Blind Pocket Rib f5 * 400
77 Blind Pocket Wall f5+ ** 407
78 Blind Pocket Arête f5+ ** 371
79 Blind Pocket Traverse f5+ 102
  The Ramp
81 The Romp f4+ 84
82 The Ramp f4 * 278
83 The Ramp - No Hands
-
V3 * 48
84 The Ramp Trending Right
-
V0- 33
  Tree Boulders
  The Egg
87 Left Egg Arête f3+ * 334
Climb name Grade
88 Scrambled Eggs f6A+ * 25
89 Left Egg f5+ * 365
90 Eggy Scoops f5 * 494
91 Egg Arête Left f5+ * 174
92 Egg Arête f6B * 533
93 Chancellor of The Eggs Checker f7A+ 1
94 Eggs is Eggs f7B+ * 13
95 Eggs is Eggs - High Start f7A 49
96 Egged On f5+ * 128
97 Ova Arm f7C 1
  T Crack
99 T Crack f7B *** 281
100 T Crack Lite f7A+ ** 15
101 Mr T f7B * 7
  Below Jerry's
103 Slopey Green Traverse f6C+ 10
104 Green Slopey Traverse f6C * 46
105 Green Slopey Traverse (Footless)
-
f7A+ 8
  Jerry's
107 Robin Mantel f5 * 42
108 Little Robin f5+ 130
109 The Lark Left-hand f7A * 10
110 The Lark f6C+ ** 169
111 Optimistic Meg f6B * 20
112 Jerry's Traverse f7B *** 213
113 Jerry's Reverse f7B+ ** 9
  Serpico
115 Serpico f6C * 17
116 Shunting Biscuits f7A+ 5
117 Munching Biscuits f5 2
118 Tim's Flute f5+ 4
119 Marc's Scheme f5+ 2
120 Sam's Game f4 1
121 Les and Len f5 4
  Converted
123 Diverted f3+ 1
124 Converted f7B+  
125 Oatibix Flake f3+ 3
  Low Slung
127 Low Slung
-
V6 * 56
128 Lower Slung V9 5
  Tit
130 The Tit Traverse
-
V6 * 12
  Main Crag
  Hermit's Cave
133 Pregnant Man f6A 1
134 Plectrum f6B 1
135 Kilroy
-
E1 5c 3
136 Burning Buddhist
-
E4 5c  
137 Creeping Friend
-
E5 6b  
138 The Nemesis Exit HVS 5b * 17
139 Hermit's Cave Traverse f6B *** 96
140 The Fence f4+ * 65
141 The Bishop f6A+ 59
142 Chip and Thin f5 * 87
143 Hermitage Rib f6A * 35
144 Tomorrow's Women
-
E4 6b  
145 Hermitage Groove S 5a 17
146 Sleight of Hand
-
E4 6a 3
147 Hermitage Crack VS 5a * 26
148 Hermitage Hand Jam f4+ * 42
  Upper Tier
150 Reticent Mass Murderer E4 6b *** 16
151 Genocide E6 6c *** 11
152 The Variant HS 4b 6
153 Hermitage Chimney M 20
154 Tom Thumb E2 5c ** 112
155 Enigma Variations E5 6a * 3
156 The Giant's Staircase HVS 5a * 182
157 No Peru E4 6a * 2
158 Magic Beans
-
V5 7
159 Bean Stalk E2 5c ** 160
  The Amphitheatre
161 Amphitheatre Crack M 10
162 Bramble Groove VS 4b 22
163 Bramley's Traverse HS 4b 8
164 Oblique Chimney VD * 35
165 Darren Hawkins' Invisible Neck E4 5c  
166 Elliott's Unconquerable HVS 5a * 124
167 Mephistopheles Exit HVS 5a * 4
168 Elliott's Right-hand E1 5c 23
169 Hey Turkey Neck E2 5c 9
170 Weston's Chimney VD 35
  Owl Gully
172 Escape/Boot Hill E3 5c *** 226
173 Trick or Treat E3 5c ** 2
174 Three Hundred Pounds of Musclin Man f7C+ *** 7
Climb name Grade
175 Percy's Cornflake f7A+ ** 5
176 The Groove E9 7b ***  
177 Nutcracker E2 5c ** 17
178 Fern Hill Indirect E4 5c *** 24
179 Fern Hill E2 5c *** 505
180 Owl Gully VD * 157
181 Tiger Traverse E2 5b * 25
182 Sedimental Journey E4 6a * 2
183 Nettle Wine E4 6b *** 42
184 Five Finger Exercise E2 5c *** 505
185 Liquid Assets E4 6b * 2
  Suicide Wall
187 Bower Route 1 HS 4b * 180
188 Direct Start VS 4c * 14
189 Pleasant Street f7A  
190 Renaissance E2 6a * 7
191 Requiem E3 6a *** 86
192 Bailey Bridge
-
E2 5c 10
193 The Long Distance Runnel E5 6c ** 4
194 Suicide Wall HVS 5b *** 1055
195 Suicide Wall Direct E1 5c ** 14
196 The Children's House E5 6c ** 3
197 Oak Tree Chimney VD 31
198 Stihl Life E5 6a ** 2
199 Sepulchrave HVS 5a ** 158
200 Mordaunt E2 5b *** 37
201 Savage Messiah E2 5c ** 157
  North Wall
203 Stretch Limo E5 6b * 2
204 North Climb S 4a * 105
205 The Little Greenie
-
E2 6a 1
206 Niche Direct VS 4c * 20
207 Oak Tree Gully
-
M 2
208 Pinchers' Wall f7A+ ** 3
209 North Wall VD * 14
210 Jimmy's Crack HVS 5b * 88
211 Invasion of the Cider Women
-
E4 6c 1
212 Invasion of the Cider Women Direct f7A *** 9
213 Samantha Muesli
-
E3 6a  
  Quercus
215 Quercus E4 6b * 1
216 Slot Ladder f6A 3
217 Edgucation f6A+ 4
  The Grimoire
219 Whose Line Is It Anyway? HVS 5a ** 14
220 Oi Grimer! E1 5b 3
221 Rocky's Revival VS 4c * 5
222 Bagu Yagu f7B * 1
223 Chess Boxer f7A+ * 1
224 Grimoire E6 6c ** 7
225 Bonfire of the Manatees f7A * 1
  Cratcliffe Woods
  Brian's
228 Brian's Private Arête f7B ** 19
  The Arch
230 Arch Arête f6A 1
231 The Arch
-
V5 * 4
  Brain Dead
233 Smooth
-
V2 2
234 Rouge
-
V1 2
235 Near Death Experience f7B *  
236 Brain Dead f6B+ *** 124
237 Skin Deep V7 5
238 Little Arête
-
V3 4
  Sparrow
240 Sparrow/My Best Friend the Water Melon f7C **  
241 Sparrow Right-Wing f7B *  
242 Nymphs and Satyrs E1 5c 1
243 Thigh Master f6C+ *  
  Hueco Wall
245 Moss Ridge f5+ * 6
246 House of the Holey f7C * 4
247 Chapel of Rest f7A ** 40
248 Percy's Start
-
f6C+ 4
249 Wish f7A+ *** 92
250 No Hueco f6C ** 87
  Above Hueco Wall
252 Soaperstition f6B+ 6
253 Soap Doger f6C * 4
  P Crack
255 Seventy-Two f7A * 45
256 Seventy-Two Direct f7A+ * 12
257 P Crack f7B ** 9
  Beyond
259 Brother Lee Love
-
V8  

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