Climbs 19
Rocktype Shale
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag features

Ynysdeullyn consists of two offshore pinnacles, accessible at low tide. Take care with rock on the landward side of the pinnacles - very friable. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft, more notable for the sense of adventure than amazing climbing.
Craig Ddu is tidal (accessible low-mid tide); good for Beckoning Light (E2 5c*).

Approach notes

Take the minor road NW from the A487 through the village of Mathry. Limited parking near the harbour, esp in summer.

Restricted Access

Ynys Deullyn is half a mile north-west from Abercastle. The rock at Ynys Deullyn is extremely poor and there are no belays in place at the top of routes on the mainland. A thoroughly un-recommended crag!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The crags at Ynys Deullyn have nesting restrictions 1st March - 1st Aug. The shingle beaches and coves around Ynys Deullyn are also used by seals for pupping August to December - please check before climbing and do not climb if there is a pup on the beach in sight of the climb. Craig Du, nearer to Abercastle is not affected by restrictions, nor is the DWS cave at the entrance to the Harbour.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 TBA - will update MVS 4b 1
2 Sea Grass Slab VD 1
  Craig Ddu
4 Beckoning Light *
-
E2 5c *  
5 White Wish *
-
VS 4c  
6 Slab and Groove *
-
HS 4a  
  Ynys Deullyn
8 Sea Grass Slab *
-
S  
9 The Bubble *
-
VS 4a  
10 Plate Glass Slab *
-
VS 4b  
11 China Slab *
-
HS 4a  
12 Island Rib *
-
HS  
13 Tawny Groove *
-
VS 4b  
14 Wind Slab *
-
VS 4b  
15 Birthday Groove *
-
HVS 4c  
16 Kestrel Wall *
-
HVS 4c  
17 Amphitheatre Buttress *
-
HS 4a  
18 South ArĂȘte *
-
S  
19 North ArĂȘte *
-
VD  
20 Final Groove *
-
HS 4b  
21 Proffwyd Tynged *
-
E2 6a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU