Climbs 42
Rocktype Limestone

Faces E

View Stats

me on gates of eden daddyhole. © Kate Edhouse

Crag features


The main cliff has the appearance of imminent collapse but be assured it has been that way for decades. It is home to some fine routes on solid rock but also some daft ones which test optimism to the limit. In addition to single and multi-pitch climbs up soaring aretes and corners, a number of good deep water solos have been done on the seaward face.

Recommended routes (2015)

VS Gates of Eden, Triton (pitch 2), Tobacco Road

HVS Last Exit to Torquay

E1 Gargantua

E4 Zuma, Ready Brek

E6 Suicide Blonde, Blubberbeast (restored 2015)

DWS Pinnacle Traverse (and Continuation), Aqua Marina, Stingray, Troy Tempest.




Approach notes

Park at Daddyhole Plain free car park.

1. 15mins Walk left out of the car park (away from the crag) for 100m then branch right into a wooded headland. Near its point a fisherman's path doubles back and zig-zags down to the cove floor. Boulder hop across the beach to the crag.

2. 10mins Walk right out of the car park for 100m to a stone arch. Immediately before it, climb over the fence and descend a path into woodland. Continue to the base of the headland for the DWS or branch left towards the cliff edge, then head uphill for 15m to find the in-situ abseil point for the big corner of Last Exit to Torquay.


Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
Replaced it today.
Kafoozalem - 23/Jul/15
The Triton abseil station appears to have gone awol. I will replace it unless anyone has strong feelings. This has always enable a useful top down approach to the crag.
Kafoozalem - 22/Jul/15
Seagulls gone.
Motown - 05/Jul/13
Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13
"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted. Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay. Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Caliban HVS 4c  
2 Good Dog E1 5b * 16
3 School's Out for Summer E1 5b 2
4 Pinnacle Traverse HVS 5a * 44
5 Pinnacle Traverse Continuation 5c * 14
6 Tobacco Road VS 4b * 119
7 Snake Charmer E3 5c * 4
8 Rocketman E4 5c 3
9 Return to Earth E3 6a  
10 Pantagruel
E4 6a ** 6
11 Readymix
HVS 5a 3
12 Ready Brek E4 6a * 2
13 Ready Brek Direct E4 6a * 3
14 Mr Orange E5 6b 3
15 Gargantua E1 5b *** 119
Climb name Grade
16 Gates of Eden HVS 5a *** 465
17 Last Exit to Torquay HVS 5b *** 237
18 Suicide Blonde E6 6b ** 9
19 Zuma E4 6a ** 34
20 Triton VS 5a * 232
21 Blubberbeast E6 6b * 2
22 Beast of Eden E4 6a 1
23 Porno for Pyro's E6 6b  
24 Neptune
VS 4c * 7
25 The Bead VS 4c * 5
26 Fandangle
HVS 5b 11
27 The Pearl
HS 4a * 50
28 Mukdahs Wall
E4 5c 1
30 Sandpiper V4 1
Climb name Grade
31 Uriel V4 1
32 Adamantine gate V4 1
33 Cirripedia Crack f6C * 1
  Aqua Marina Wall (DWS)
35 Jam- Master 6a+ * 9
36 Devolution 6c 5
37 Erinaceus 7a+ 2
38 Troy Tempest 6c+ ** 42
39 George Doors from the Upper Floors 6b ** 14
40 Dark Material 6c+ 1
41 Barn Doors 6c+ * 39
42 Stingray 7a ** 31
43 Sirens 6b+ 1
44 Aqua Marina 6a+ *** 90

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Kafoozalem