Climbs 61
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

Nathan On a Tricky Route © Nathan Fallaize

Crag features

This is the end of the Icart peninsular and is gradually becoming a stack as the 'coupée' crumbles away. There are 2 'crags', Upper Goat Crag is non-tidal, Lower Goat Crag is. Kid island is a small clean stack east of the coupée accessible from about 2 hours before low water, although some of the routes need a lower state of tide (may not dry on neaps). Kid island is sheltered in W'erly or SW'erly winds. Goat crags are sheltered from easterlies. Take care when topping out on Kid Island.

Approach notes

For the Goat crags park at Icart carpark ( year round toilets & Kiosk in summer) and follow the cliffpath round to the headland before heading down the climbers path along the right-hand side of the ridge. Using in-situ stakes & the big boulder to belay off, rig a rope to 'abseil' across the chossy coupée - return by scrambling/prussiking. For Kid Island head down the eastern side of the descent ridge nearly to sea level then follow a wide ledge system back towards the coupée. It is possible to get across to the Goat crags from Kid Island, but then you'll be short on time. Kid island needs the tide to be about 2 hours either side of low water or below for the scramble approach, and a bit higher if you cross the coupée and descend down the grassy ridge to it, however you'll need to do a see-saw abseil to get back off the stack. No bird restrictions, but seagulls nest on the Chateau and Kid Island.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Goat Grag
2 Blowout
-
HS 4a 1
3 Orpheus
-
HS 4a  
4 Overhang Direct
-
E2 5b *  
5 Salamacis
-
VS 5a  
6 Morpheus
-
HVS 5a  
7 Amber Gambler
-
HS 4b 1
8 Perseus
-
VS 4c 4
9 Agent Orange
-
HVS 5a 1
10 Auriga E5 6a  
11 Alpheratz E4 5c *  
12 Demon Star E4 5c **  
13 Andromeda
-
E1 5b ** 2
14 Trouble with Lichen
-
E1 5b 2
15 Space Probe
-
S  
16 Space Probe variation
-
VS 4c 1
17 Don't Fear the Creeper
-
HVS 5a 3
18 Herbie
-
VD 4
19 Tucker's route
-
S 2
20 Paraquat Groove
-
VD 1
  Lower Goat Crag
22 Lower goat crag tidal info summit  
23 Bingo
-
VS 4c  
24 Goat Buster
-
HS 4b  
25 Yellow Rain
-
HVS 5a  
26 Don't Monkey With The Monkey
-
E2 5b  
27 Double Exposure
-
E1 5a  
28 Splashdown
-
E2 6a  
29 The Wild Web
-
E5 6a  
30 Smaug
-
HS 4b 3
31 Whitewash
-
HVS 5a  
32 Slippery Dick
-
E1 5b 2
33 Mr Clean a.k.a. Nicky's Line HVS 5b 1
34 Billy The Kid
-
VS 4c 3
35 No Kidding
-
E1 5b  
36 Legolamb: Direct Start
-
HVS 5b  
37 Legolamb
-
HVS 5a * 2
38 The Naked Ape
-
VS 4c  
39 Breezy
-
S 6
40 The Hare and The Tortoise
-
D 2
  Kid Island
42 Raptured on the Rocks S 1
43 Octo
-
S 1
44 Whole Nut S 2
45 Puss
-
HVS 4c 1
46 Wise Crack
-
D  
47 Fruit and Nut
-
HS 4b 2
48 Kid You Not
-
E4 6a  
49 Wait for a High
-
E5 6a *  
50 Bananas
-
HVS 4c 4
51 Ro-Ro
-
S  
52 Merrily, Merrily
-
E2 5b  
53 Bananas Gorilla
-
HVS 5a  
54 Karabiner Falls
-
VD  
55 Yellow Spur
-
E1 5b * 2
56 Yellow Spur: Direct
-
E3 6a  
57 Gymcrack
-
HVS 5a 2
58 Up and Under
-
VS 4c 1
  Buttress/stack behind Kid Island
60 Mamba Mousse
-
HS 4a  
61 Python Pudding
-
VD  
62 Rattlesnake Pie
-
S  
63 Boa Blancmange
-
HVS 5a  
  New Route potential
65 The wide crack none  
66 Lady Boy
-
M  
  unsorted climbs

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