Climbs 74
Rocktype Granite

Ander on a perfect evening- soloing a sun warmed Chequered Slab, Markfield Quarry. © Ander

Crag features

05/10/09 - Route information avaliable at (thank you to all those who responded to a forum queery with regard to where to find this information :))

Quarried hill top on two levels, second level dropping into flooded pit. Very amenable. Mostly slabby routes, some quite steep. Longest and best route:"Weak Walk" S***,30m. Other good routes: "Plain Sailing" E2 5c**,14m ( bolt midway), "Speed King" E2 5b, (8m. of strenuous climbing followed by 8m. of vertical mud). Also a classic water level traverse "Baptism" VS 5b***, 40m. [Al Smith]

Lower level now rather effectively fenced off. [Roger Naylor 5/03]

Approach notes

Markfield Quarry is situated just off the M1 at J22: look R.
If travelling N, the quarry is the hilltop with the small radio-mast.

18/7/09- Car break ins still seem a problem as broken glass on floor in car park. Recommend you park in the village & walk in.


The top teft hand side of Betty's slab now has a lot of loose rock. Be careful when putting nuts into the cracks. Suggest you check very carefully before doing Elderberry Corner, Sam's Arete or Sugar Daddy. (May 2016)

Restricted Access

New safety signing has been erected indicating the site owners (Hickley & Bosworth Borough Council) now prohibit a number of recreational activities in the quarry - including climbing and abseiling.

The BMC is currently talking with Hinkley & Bosworth Council about the existing climbing ban at Markfield Quarry. A letter from the BMC has been sent to the Council to explain why the crag is important to local climbers and address their liability concerns. We have asked for a meeting with the Council to discuss whether their current position could be changed and are awaiting a response. 

Be careful of break-ins at the car park.


Have been in the last couple of weeks. Access ok, sign still says no climbing, but this has always been the case. As previously reported if you're discreet it's not a problem. Could do with more traffic to clean up the rock or maybe a bmc clean up day!! Good for beginners and kids.
jwmurdoch - 11/Aug/15
Went over for the evening, I'd forgotten about all of the gorse! My second pulled a decent sized block off Titch and Hoot at the top, there may still be some loose rock about and the route may be slightly harder now.
spenser - 05/Jun/14
We went there from Notts, wanting a short drive if we got rained on. Decent crag, really fast drying after two flash hail showers. Surprisingly worthwhile considering the bad reviews I've heard of Leicestershire climbing.
OliverRoss - 23/Mar/14
3 enjoyable short days over the recent warm weather, find an aspect that suits! Abundance of gorse could do with clearing, otherwise solid clean rock with some pro', recomend rigging rope for belays on 'Betty;s peg'
Dave Pen - 28/Jul/13
There's a new car-park a little N of where the "layby" is marked on the map in the guidebook/website. Sadly, there's a new fence round the pond, which looks pretty impregnable now - blocking all the lower tier climbs and some of the Dead Bay area :-(
MatthewV - 04/Sep/11
Best place to park is in the village by the church, and follow the obvious path up
mark20 - 07/Aug/11
Last time I was there the Farmer who owns the field we go through for access told me that he didn't mind us going through but that YOU MUST NOT TAKE BOLT CUTTERS AND CUT THE FENCE. This guy is really cool about climbers using his property so please respect him and his livelihood.
zzzztj - 16/Sep/10
Attempted Baptism last night in the rain, took about 30 mins just to work a small path through the brambles on the ramp. great fun who would of thought you could go deep water soloing in Leicestershire!!
paulharmer - 03/Sep/09
Could the police not put some CCTV cameras on the layby? They may catch a few things.
Skinny Kin - 21/May/09
Been cleaning up pool wall as it has become a tad overgrown through lack of climbing. We going to work our way round to cleaning Batism as the approach is under loads of brambles, between the 2 I think theres some of the best climbs in leicestershire excluding the brand that is, Plain sailing is especially good mainly because arrows of desire just a little out of my range!
Nev Hallam - 04/May/09
We went there yesterday, good practice for first time slab soloing, Only averaged to get two sets of protection on each crag we did, however if you are using it for this, take micro nuts and cams on the smaller end of the scale. People using it friendly. Some areas of wall overgrown with greenery but a fine day out.
ronaldo45 - 14/Apr/09
Nice crag, mainly low grade but good fun. Park in the village (Markfield) somewhere and you'll be ok regarding break ins.
benjhans - 21/May/08
Went there today, 10/02/08 parked next to the church, havent noticed anything missing!! Nice spot, although access to climbs above water abit trickky due to monstrous green fence! Worth a look.
kevlad - 10/Feb/08
my car was broken into 9-8-7 between 18.00 and 21.00
dave jackson - 13/Aug/07
a pretty good place to climb, there's been a fire thats cleared all the bushes so all the rocks are easy to access, we had no problems with the car and just left it in the small carpark down the road, i recomend this place to anybody round here, its better than any of the other sites i have been to nearby. we had a good days climbing and pretty much had the place to ourselves
joe_hine - 14/Apr/07
Bla bla bla... im going to write a comment about the crag as opposed te the layby. Its nice. Its the best place in the area. Its easy & the gear is good. And where its not the gear is crap. It has some awesome routes on solid rock. And some absolute shyte on crumbly rubbish. Well worth a visit if your leading sub VS, above that, youll struggle to keep entertained all day.
John_Warner - 16/Nov/06
Rah rah rah! Yes I had my bag stolen from my car. I hate Markfield Quarry and curse it....don't park near to it otherwise you'll be as mad as me.....feel a little better for sharing.
Premal - 18/Oct/03
Can I repeat the WARNINGS about PARKING in LAYBY by QUARRY We didn't heed the advice and yes we got **** BROKEN INTO ***** Don't be a victim like us - take all valuableS out of the car and park somewhere else.
Dux - 18/Oct/03
Great place to visit , some easy hikes/climbs , but cannot emphasise enough DO NOT LEAVE YOUR CAR IN THE LAYBY NEAR THE QUARRY !! IT WILL BE BROKEN INTO.I park either on the industrial estate or the furniture shop car park nearby. Only 5 minute walk , but cheaper than a new window or worse.
IAN BOWER - 07/Jun/03
Not a bad place. Just watch where you put your car. Mine got broken into last time I was there.
Gareth Dixon - 10/Jun/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Titch and KwackerVS 4c 99
2Titch & HootVS 4c 14
3Left AreteVD 60
4Left Edge
VD 104
5Black Slab
VD 139
6Grey Slab
S 164
7Gorse Slab
VD 184
8Just Right
VD 110
9Babbies BottomS **153
10WhistHS 4b 5
11weak walkS 4a ***107
12Elderberry CrackD 67
13Elderberry Corner
VD 68
14Sams AreteE1 5b *13
15Sugar DaddyHVS 5a 54
16Gollywog's Cake WalkVD *117
17CrownS 117
18Hard ShoulderHS 4b *87
19ClearwayS **159
20Go HomeD 110
21Fast HomeM 30
22Bramble EdgeVD 29
23ThornS 4c *60
24ForkVS 5a 40
25Slow HomeS 37
26TeaspoonS 4a 14
27CelesteHVS 5a 23
28Hard Rain ComingHVS 5a 9
29PhobosHVS 5a 31
30Cake WalkD 40
31No OvertakingD 29
32KateVS 4c **52
33QuarianticsHVS 5a 46
34Girdle TraverseVD 5a *37
35Plain SailingE2 5c **19
36ScratchinsHVS 5b 4
37White Dog TraverseHVD 3
38Nick's WayHS 4b *16
39Double DiamondVS 4c 8
40Dead Bay
VS 4b 7
41The Wall Climb
VD 4
42Arrows of DesireE3 6a *2
43Chequered SlabVS 4c **18
44DropsyVS 4c 4
45Speed KingE2 5b 5
46BaptismVS ***8
47Looseflack CrackVS 5a 4
48Crab CrawlS 6
49Steep WalkHVS 5b 3
50DecrepitationHVS 4c  
51The DrainVD *2
52Cioch Wall
S 4a 4
53Cracked Wall
S 8
54Dead Arete
S 2
55Prefabricated Pomegranite
S 2
56Puppy Love *VS 4c 1
57Contract Bridge *S 4a  
58Weak Walk Direct *VS 4c 7
59Nose Arete *S 3
60Twice My Height *none 5b  
61Wall Climb *S 4a  
62Concrete Banana *HVS 5b  
63Overhanging wall left *V4 1
64Overhanging wall groove *V4 2
65Overhanging wall right *V2 2
66Overhanging wall ramp *VB 3
67Soft Route *VS 4b 2
68Gangway *S 1
69Devil Smoke *f7B+ 2
70Little Lilly *f7A+ 3
71Tiger Lilly *f8A 3
72Water Lilly *V7 1
73Devil's Lilly *V8 1
74Tiger eyes *V10  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Leader