Climbs 74
Rocktype Granite

Ander on a perfect evening- soloing a sun warmed Chequered Slab, Markfield Quarry. © Ander

Crag features

05/10/09 - Route information avaliable at http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/ (thank you to all those who responded to a forum queery with regard to where to find this information :))

Quarried hill top on two levels, second level dropping into flooded pit. Very amenable. Mostly slabby routes, some quite steep. Longest and best route:"Weak Walk" S***,30m. Other good routes: "Plain Sailing" E2 5c**,14m ( bolt midway), "Speed King" E2 5b, (8m. of strenuous climbing followed by 8m. of vertical mud). Also a classic water level traverse "Baptism" VS 5b***, 40m. [Al Smith]

Lower level now rather effectively fenced off. [Roger Naylor 5/03]

Approach notes

Markfield Quarry is situated just off the M1 at J22: look R.
If travelling N, the quarry is the hilltop with the small radio-mast.

18/7/09- Car break ins still seem a problem as broken glass on floor in car park. Recommend you park in the village & walk in.

***BE WARNED THERE ARE A LOT OF CAR BREAK-INS HAPPENING @ MARKFIELD. LEAVE NOTHING OF ANY VALUE IN YOUR VEHICLE, INCLUDING ITEMS IN BOOTS AND GLOVE BOXS!!!***

The top teft hand side of Betty's slab now has a lot of loose rock. Be careful when putting nuts into the cracks. Suggest you check very carefully before doing Elderberry Corner, Sam's Arete or Sugar Daddy. (May 2016)

Access Advice

New safety signing has been erected indicating the site owners (Hickley & Bosworth Borough Council) now prohibit a number of recreational activities in the quarry - including climbing and abseiling.

The BMC is currently talking with Hinkley & Bosworth Council about the existing climbing ban at Markfield Quarry. A letter from the BMC has been sent to the Council to explain why the crag is important to local climbers and address their liability concerns. We have asked for a meeting with the Council to discuss whether their current position could be changed and are awaiting a response. 

Be careful of break-ins at the car park.

Guidebooks

Have been in the last couple of weeks. Access ok, sign still says no climbing, but this has always been the case. As previously reported if you're discreet it's not a problem. Could do with more traffic to clean up the rock or maybe a bmc clean up day!! Good for beginners and kids.
jwmurdoch - 11/Aug/15
Went over for the evening, I'd forgotten about all of the gorse! My second pulled a decent sized block off Titch and Hoot at the top, there may still be some loose rock about and the route may be slightly harder now.
spenser - 05/Jun/14
We went there from Notts, wanting a short drive if we got rained on. Decent crag, really fast drying after two flash hail showers. Surprisingly worthwhile considering the bad reviews I've heard of Leicestershire climbing.
OliverRoss - 23/Mar/14
3 enjoyable short days over the recent warm weather, find an aspect that suits! Abundance of gorse could do with clearing, otherwise solid clean rock with some pro', recomend rigging rope for belays on 'Betty;s peg'
Dave Pen - 28/Jul/13
There's a new car-park a little N of where the "layby" is marked on the map in the guidebook/website. Sadly, there's a new fence round the pond, which looks pretty impregnable now - blocking all the lower tier climbs and some of the Dead Bay area :-(
MatthewV - 04/Sep/11
Best place to park is in the village by the church, and follow the obvious path up
mark20 - 07/Aug/11
Last time I was there the Farmer who owns the field we go through for access told me that he didn't mind us going through but that YOU MUST NOT TAKE BOLT CUTTERS AND CUT THE FENCE. This guy is really cool about climbers using his property so please respect him and his livelihood.
zzzztj - 16/Sep/10
Attempted Baptism last night in the rain, took about 30 mins just to work a small path through the brambles on the ramp. great fun who would of thought you could go deep water soloing in Leicestershire!!
paulharmer - 03/Sep/09
Could the police not put some CCTV cameras on the layby? They may catch a few things.
Skinny Kin - 21/May/09
Been cleaning up pool wall as it has become a tad overgrown through lack of climbing. We going to work our way round to cleaning Batism as the approach is under loads of brambles, between the 2 I think theres some of the best climbs in leicestershire excluding the brand that is, Plain sailing is especially good mainly because arrows of desire just a little out of my range!
Nev Hallam - 04/May/09
We went there yesterday, good practice for first time slab soloing, Only averaged to get two sets of protection on each crag we did, however if you are using it for this, take micro nuts and cams on the smaller end of the scale. People using it friendly. Some areas of wall overgrown with greenery but a fine day out.
ronaldo45 - 14/Apr/09
Nice crag, mainly low grade but good fun. Park in the village (Markfield) somewhere and you'll be ok regarding break ins.
benjhans - 21/May/08
Went there today, 10/02/08 parked next to the church, havent noticed anything missing!! Nice spot, although access to climbs above water abit trickky due to monstrous green fence! Worth a look.
kevlad - 10/Feb/08
my car was broken into 9-8-7 between 18.00 and 21.00
dave jackson - 13/Aug/07
a pretty good place to climb, there's been a fire thats cleared all the bushes so all the rocks are easy to access, we had no problems with the car and just left it in the small carpark down the road, i recomend this place to anybody round here, its better than any of the other sites i have been to nearby. we had a good days climbing and pretty much had the place to ourselves
joe_hine - 14/Apr/07
Bla bla bla... im going to write a comment about the crag as opposed te the layby. Its nice. Its the best place in the area. Its easy & the gear is good. And where its not the gear is crap. It has some awesome routes on solid rock. And some absolute shyte on crumbly rubbish. Well worth a visit if your leading sub VS, above that, youll struggle to keep entertained all day.
John_Warner - 16/Nov/06
Rah rah rah! Yes I had my bag stolen from my car. I hate Markfield Quarry and curse it....don't park near to it otherwise you'll be as mad as me.....feel a little better for sharing.
Premal - 18/Oct/03
Can I repeat the WARNINGS about PARKING in LAYBY by QUARRY We didn't heed the advice and yes we got **** BROKEN INTO ***** Don't be a victim like us - take all valuableS out of the car and park somewhere else.
Dux - 18/Oct/03
Great place to visit , some easy hikes/climbs , but cannot emphasise enough DO NOT LEAVE YOUR CAR IN THE LAYBY NEAR THE QUARRY !! IT WILL BE BROKEN INTO.I park either on the industrial estate or the furniture shop car park nearby. Only 5 minute walk , but cheaper than a new window or worse.
IAN BOWER - 07/Jun/03
Not a bad place. Just watch where you put your car. Mine got broken into last time I was there.
Gareth Dixon - 10/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Titch and Kwacker VS 4c 101
2 Titch & Hoot VS 4c 14
3 Left Arete VD 60
4 Left Edge
-
VD 105
5 Black Slab
-
VD 140
6 Grey Slab
-
S 165
7 Gorse Slab
-
VD 187
8 Just Right
-
VD 109
9 Babbies Bottom S ** 152
10 Whist HS 4b 5
11 weak walk S 4a *** 110
12 Elderberry Crack D 69
13 Elderberry Corner
-
VD 69
14 Sams Arete E1 5b * 13
15 Sugar Daddy HVS 5a 55
16 Gollywog's Cake Walk VD * 118
17 Crown S 120
18 Hard Shoulder HS 4b * 87
19 Clearway S ** 163
20 Go Home D 112
21 Fast Home M 30
22 Bramble Edge VD 29
23 Thorn S 4c * 60
24 Fork VS 5a 40
25 Slow Home S 37
26 Teaspoon S 4a 14
27 Celeste HVS 5a 23
28 Hard Rain Coming HVS 5a 9
29 Phobos HVS 5a 31
30 Cake Walk D 40
31 No Overtaking D 29
32 Kate VS 4c ** 52
33 Quariantics HVS 5a 46
34 Girdle Traverse VD 5a * 40
35 Plain Sailing E2 5c ** 19
36 Scratchins HVS 5b 4
37 White Dog Traverse HVD 3
38 Nick's Way HS 4b * 16
39 Double Diamond VS 4c 9
40 Dead Bay
-
VS 4b 8
41 The Wall Climb
-
VD 4
42 Arrows of Desire E3 6a * 2
43 Chequered Slab VS 4c ** 16
44 Dropsy VS 4c 4
45 Speed King E2 5b 6
46 Baptism VS *** 8
47 Looseflack Crack VS 5a 4
48 Crab Crawl S 6
49 Steep Walk HVS 5b 3
50 Decrepitation HVS 4c  
51 The Drain VD * 2
52 Cioch Wall
-
S 4a 4
53 Cracked Wall
-
S 8
54 Dead Arete
-
S 2
55 Prefabricated Pomegranite
-
S 2
56 Puppy Love * VS 4c 1
57 Contract Bridge * S 4a  
58 Weak Walk Direct * VS 4c 7
59 Nose Arete * S 3
60 Twice My Height * none 5b  
61 Wall Climb * S 4a  
62 Concrete Banana * HVS 5b  
63 Overhanging wall left * V4 6a 1
64 Overhanging wall groove * V4 6b 2
65 Overhanging wall right * V2 5c 2
66 Overhanging wall ramp * VB 3
67 Soft Route * VS 4b 2
68 Gangway * S 1
69 Devil Smoke * f7B+ 2
70 Little Lilly * f7A+ 3
71 Tiger Lilly * f8A 3
72 Water Lilly * V7 1
73 Devil's Lilly * V8 1
74 Tiger eyes * V10  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Leader