Climbs 51
Rocktype Granite

Faces S

Crag features

The rocky south-eastern tip of Craignaw consists of a number of clean buttresses of premium-quality granite, unaccountably overlooked in the past. The crag is south-facing and all day sun (with a consequent lack of midges) and a lovely outlook are further bonuses. Wires are far more use here than on most other Galloway mountain crags.

http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/Galloway/craignaw.htm

http://www.johnbiggar.com/snibe-hill-rock-climbing.asp

Approach notes

Approach: Either from Craigencallie up the Backhill of Bush Road until directly opposite the crag at NX 478817 in an area of recent felling, at which point it is possible to cross the Cooran Lane and approach the crag directly. The location of faint goat tracks across the moor tend to indicate the best places to cross the otherwise deep and sinister Cooran Lane (1 hour by bike, 1 1/2 hours on foot). Alternatively from Loch Trool by way of Loch Valley (1 1/2 hours).

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grit Buttress
2 Almscliff V Diff
-
HVS 5b  
3 Goatesque
-
E2 5b  
4 Goatzilla
-
E2 5c  
  Wisdom Wall
6 The Young Pretender
-
HVS 5a  
7 Long Tall Sally
-
HVS 5b 2
8 Hooves of Fire
-
E1 5a  
  The Seven Pillars
10 Swamp Fever
-
S 4a  
11 McKinlay Murmerings
-
VD  
12 Denali De-Brief
-
HS 4b * 2
13 Cleanliness is Next to
-
S 4a **  
14 Goatliness
-
HS 4b * 2
15 Burning the Goats
-
HS 4b *  
16 Goatee
-
VD  
17 Arabian Nights
-
VD  
  The Uncarved Block
19 Pointless of the Snibe
-
S 4a  
20 Timorous Cooran Beastie
-
E1 5b **  
21 Springs of Enchantment
-
E1 5b *** 1
22 Ram Attang
-
VS 4c *  
23 Silver Sand
-
VS 4c ** 2
  The Arete
25 The Call of the Weird
-
VS 5a *  
26 The Arete Direct
-
E3 6b **  
27 The Arete
-
VS 4c * 2
28 Walk on Hot Coals
-
VS 4c **  
  Cornarroch Walls
30 Eau de Goat
-
VS 4c  
31 Cat Goat your Tongue?
-
VS 4c *  
32 Cornarroch Chimney
-
VD  
33 Original Route
-
D  
  Top Tower
35 Man the Lifegoats
-
VS 4c *  
36 Chook Run
-
HS 4b  
37 Direct Variation
-
HVS 5a  
  The Philosopher's Stone
39 Bambi
-
HVS 5a  
40 Beltie
-
E3 5c ***  
41 If it's Hard at the Bottom, It's Turf at the Top
-
S 4b  
  Lower Slabs
43 The Goat, the Bad and the Ugly
-
VS 5a  
44 Let the Goat Times Roll
-
VS 4c *  
45 Kid's Play
-
M  
  The Slab of the Snibe
47 Yllas
-
S 4b  
48 Gordon Bennett
-
HVS 4c  
49 Nehpets
-
S 4b  
50 Goat for It!
-
VS 4c  
51 Sally Arete
-
S  
  The Pearly Goats
53 Rivergoat Rambler
-
VS 4c  
54 The Alchemist's Dream
-
E1 5b ***  
55 Juniper Cracks
-
VS 4c  
56 Juniper Cracks Direct
-
E2 5b *  
57 Wider by Faa
-
VS 4c  
58 Little Egypt
-
VS  
59 Jethro
-
VS 4c  
60 The Faa Side
-
VD  
61 Faa Harder
-
HS 4c  
62 Faa Harder Still
-
E1 5a  

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