Climbs 72
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces all

Big Bob walks the talk on Pettifer's Wall, Ratho. © Fraser

Crag features

A very fine dolerite quarry that surrounds the EICA Ratho climbing wall - almost as good as the indoor wall and often considerably warmer!! With recent plant clearance and revitalised trad routes from HVS upwards, it can be in condition throughout the year and deserves to regain it's popularity.

Central Belt classics like Wally 1 E2 5c ***, Gruel Brittania E3 6a *** and Shear Fear E2 5c ** are complimented by both other fine trad routes such as Welcome To The Cruise E1 5b **, Pete's Wall E1 5b **, Rebel Without Claws E2 5c **, Strongarm E3 6a **, Wally 2 E4 5c **, and Pettifar's Wall E4 6a **, and new sport routes like The Corrieman F6b+ ** and Kamikaze F6c+ **

Approach notes

Access by car:

Leave the M8 at Junction 2 and follow the signs.

Access by bus/train:

The Lothain Buses 20 service goes to Ratho village from either the Gyle centre (12, 22 from city centre) or edinburgh park station (12, tram, train) where a pleasant 10/15 minute walk along the canal gets you to the centre.

Alternatively the First Group 27/x27 service stops at Wilkieston from where the centre is a brisk 15 minutes along a fairly busy road.

Approach via building:

Either head through the building and out into the quarry through the external doors just before the wall turnstile, or head around the outside as detailed below. Note that if you wish to use the wall facilities you must return to reception, pay and collect an access card and wristband.

Approach via outside:

1. Head northwards (towards the M8) from the carpark, traverse the quarry edge clockwise to reach the fire escape. Open the gate then use to access the quarry floor. (UPDATE - gate and fence covered in anti-climb paint, but latch can be easily opened with a nut-key)

2. Head towards the centre main entrance from the carpark, but take a right-turn via an access track. Follow this down, then back up until you reach the east (right) side of the centre, where a set of external stairs allows you to access the quarry floor - the area below has a wooden fence across it but a hidden gate on the left side gives access - this is difficult to see from the quarry side (useful to know if you're in the quarry after the centre has shut!)

Cut back top out of sedge warbler today, still bits loose but no thorns/nettles/gorse at edge to distract now. . .
seanhendo123 - 10/Oct/14
Access line cleared and in situ rope placed to make accessing the ledge that Grapes/plums of ratho and diverticulitis straightforward
JamieSparkes - 10/Jul/14
Top out of quick pull is terrible, definately worth cleaning before attempting . . . found this out to mates cost
seanhendo123 - 13/Jan/14
Now updated in accordance with recent development and recent tree/rock clearance.
Fiend - 16/Dec/13
Ratho bus number has changed from the Lothain Buses X48 to the Lothain Buses x12 and 12.
Denpov - 16/Mar/13
I did a toprope to try the climb at the line of bolt studs between Strongarm and Wally 3. The large flake that is used for the high runner does not look like the most secure peice of rock I have seen. Be careful using this large flake folks.
Denpov - 16/Mar/13
Still great climbing, but the topouts need debushed to allow traversing to the descent route/s (we abseiled from the post above shear fear (look through the post first!) If not, your only option is to jump the fence and walk round, though this is damaging the fence behind the popular climbs! You would have thought a climbing centre would have better access...
jonnie3430 - 08/Jun/12
Just a general note that the spike jug on Shear Fear just after you pull onto the first difficult section (used to take a good wire) is now dangerously loose, making the first section slightly harder to climb and protect. Probably needs glueing or removing really.
hexcentric - 06/May/12
Can be easily accessed through the centre, via a pretty reasonable coffee. WARNING: The "small ledge" on Ane Ledge E3 5c * is dangerously detached and starting coming away from the wall when I was pulling on it. It seems solid to stand on ONLY. Needs bolting on or pulling off. Good route otherwise.
Fiend - 10/Mar/11
BEWARE - the Ratho car park shuts just after ten pm. They lock a gate over the exit!!! Once they do that there is no escape. We found the best thing to do was to phone the police who found called a local keyholder to let us out ...
mhowie - 02/Jun/10
Third sunday in a row up here, great quality climbing that needs more traffic. Chopped down the brambles and gorse around Beanpud, Rock-a-Boogie and Rebel Without Claws and cleaned pete's wall. Will try and sort more in future visits.
andymoin - 24/Feb/08
May'04 - Ratho quarry is open for climbing! Access is free via the Adventure Centre but you need to sign-in. Extra care should be taken since many of the routes are dirty with loose rock. Guide book descriptions & grades may also be unreliable. The top of the crag is very unstable in places.
Mark Lydon - 27/May/04
Access to this quarry will be exceedingly difficult until September 2003 due to the completed roof of the NRCC of Scotland. Of course from September it isn't going to be easy either if you don't want to part with some money. I would suggest to anyone who has not heard about the NRCC to visit <a href=""></a>. It does look rather impressive.
Tony - 21/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Now inside EICA (kept for historical records) 
2 Once upon a flake crackHVS 5a 2
3 Doomed OasisE3 5c 8
4 GodzillaE2 5c *17
5 Spiny NormanS 1
6 Scotty AreteS *6
7 Sahara
E3 6a 1
 West Wall 
9Alan's GrooveHVS 5a 7
10Monkey PuzzlerS 77
11Chalk and CheeseE2 5a *18
12Jungle RockVS 15
13The Plums of Ratho7b *16
14The Grapes of Ratho6b+ **101
15DiverticulitisE3 6a **16
16AlopeciaE5 6a *7
17Welcome to the CruiseE2 5c **106
18Ane LedgeE3 5c *32
19ShoskredHVS 5a *334
20Between ContractsHVS 5a *56
21Cracking UpHVS 5a *202
22Quick PullHVS 5a 28
23Coniglio MortiE2 5c 2
24(Slow Strain - without bolts)E3 6a *16
25Slow Strain6b 196
26Buzooka7b+ **49
27Pettifer's WallE4 6a **34
28 (Pettifar's Wall - via bolts)6c 15
29Kamikaze6c+ **120
30John McCain6b *71
31Panzer6a+ *68
 Black Wall 
33Sedge WarblerE2 5b **92
34Peashooter5a **79
35Time's Last GiftHVS 5b *50
36Up the Creek
E1 5b 26
37Pete's WallE2 5c **59
38ArthoE4 6b *14
 East Wall 
40Ouroborus EliminateE3 5c *34
41OuroborusHVS 5b *229
42Impure Allure6b+ **134
43Shear FearE2 5c ***225
44 (Strongarm - pre-rockfall)E3 6a **30
45StrongarmE4 6a **1
46What Lies BeneathE8 6c **4
47 (Wally 3 - pre-rockfall)E4 6a **17
48Wally 3E5 6a *5
49The Corrieman6c **87
50Wally 2E4 5c **26
51 (Wally 2 - via bolts)6c 13
52Wounded Knee7a+ *24
E1 5c 7
54So it GoesE2 5c 5
55FledgeVS 5a 22
565000 Christmas TreesE2 5c *4
57Business as usualE3 6a 4
58Danger no Entry
VS 4c 5
59Fairy FeatVS 4c 1
60MonVS 4c 3
61Pull the Other OneE1 5c 2
62BeanpudE1 5b **81
63Election SicknessVS 4c  
64Rock-a-BoogieVS 4c **117
65Rebel Without ClawsE2 5c **69
66Bolts near Oroborous Eliminate7b 5
 East bay 
68This Septic HeilE5 6b ***15
69Gruel BrittaniaE3 6a ***31
70Jumping Jack SplatE3 6a 4
71The Lone GrooverE3 6a *2
72Wally 1E2 5c ***87
73Blue RinseE1 5c **76
74Jagged EdgeV0+ 1
75Cobweb CrackV1 1
76What a Wally!V1 1
77The Edge of DarknessVB 1

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