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Altitude 100m a.s.l
Shear Fear © andymoin
6th May 2016:
MAJOR ROCKFALL Had a look today. Beanpud and Rock-a-boogie are still there. I think it's Mon that's gone.
Note 15th April 2019:
MAJOR ROCKFALL has taken place, according to centre staff in the last few days, on the East Wall in what I believe is the area of Rock-a-boogie/Beanpud. Having never climbed on this particular part of the crag and with the new difficulty in identifying routes given that major features have disappeared, I’m not sure exactly which routes are affected, but a chunk the size of a car has come off the rockface and rubble is strewn at the edge of the archery area. Perhaps someone more familiar with the crag can have a look and work out which routes are gone at some point so the database can be updated? In the meantime, stay safe and I’d keep a distance from that bit of the crag and most definitely avoid climbing near the fallen area.
A very fine dolerite quarry that surrounds the EICA Ratho climbing wall - almost as good as the indoor wall and often considerably warmer!! With recent plant clearance and revitalised trad routes from HVS upwards, it can be in condition throughout the year and deserves to regain it's popularity.
Central Belt classics like Wally 1 E2 5c ***, Gruel Brittania E3 6a *** and Shear Fear E2 5c ** are complimented by both other fine trad routes such as Welcome To The Cruise E1 5b **, Pete's Wall E1 5b **, Rebel Without Claws E2 5c **, Strongarm E3 6a **, Wally 2 E4 5c **, and Pettifar's Wall E4 6a **, and new sport routes like The Corrieman F6b+ ** and Kamikaze F6c+ **
Access by car:
Leave the M8 at Junction 2 and follow the signs.
Access by bus/train:
The Lothain Buses 20 service goes to Ratho village from either the Gyle centre (12, 22 from city centre) or edinburgh park station (12, tram, train) where a pleasant 10/15 minute walk along the canal gets you to the centre.
Alternatively the First Group 27/x27 service stops at Wilkieston from where the centre is a brisk 15 minutes along a fairly busy road.
Approach via building:
Either head through the building and out into the quarry through the external doors just before the wall turnstile, or head around the outside as detailed below. Note that if you wish to use the wall facilities you must return to reception, pay and collect an access card and wristband.
Approach via outside:
1. Head northwards (towards the M8) from the carpark, traverse the quarry edge clockwise to reach the fire escape. Open the gate then use to access the quarry floor. (UPDATE - gate and fence covered in anti-climb paint, but latch can be easily opened with a nut-key)
2. Head towards the centre main entrance from the carpark, but take a right-turn via an access track. Follow this down, then back up until you reach the east (right) side of the centre, where a set of external stairs allows you to access the quarry floor - the area below has a wooden fence across it but a hidden gate on the left side gives access - this is difficult to see from the quarry side (useful to know if you're in the quarry after the centre has shut!)
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