Climbs 117
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces N

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Big exposure on East Rib! © Alex the Alex

Crag features

Probably the best crag on Bleaklow made of the finest moorland grit. A collection of buttress up to 20m high situated on the edge of high land. Exposed to the elements, cold, and green most of the year, it comes into its own on the hottest days of summer. Then a delight waits in store. Atherton Brothers (S), Phoenix Climb (VS 4c) or Pisa Superdirect (HVS 5a) are great, but more outstanding are East Rib (HVS 5a exposed!), Saucius Digitallis (E4 6b), well-protected, desperate finger jamming and the incredible Bloodrush (E6 6b) up the rib to the left of Saucius.

Approach notes

There have been problems using the approach described in the old BMC guidebook. The approach described in Western Grit is correct.
WESTERN GRIT APPROACH. Go through the 5 bar gate, turn left and follow the tarmaced track for about a mile until a sign points rightwards to Open Country. Follow the path up the hill round to the right of a pool and leading down into the wood and the stream. Go through a gate in the fence and cross the stream onto its eastern bank, the path then goes under several large oak trees and steeply up the bank toward the crag. The path is vague in places through the wood but is well defined through the heather up to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Bushwhacking approach through fern and moorland for 40 minutes didn't float my boat. Next time I will head East over grassland to the track that almost reaches the crag or use the eastern parking. Approach notes need more detail... from the dam 1km up track to gravel area on right before the house in the trees. Follow the fence posts (either side) right perpendicular to the track for about 400m to a stand of trees. Pass the trees on the right entering another field, immediately bear left through bracken to cross a brook and follow a path right. After 100m cross a fence at an open country sign and follow a hunters path right, then left and down to the clough. The hunters path goes up the stream bed for at least 500m, so maybe best to stay in the stream bed until high in the moor if approaching this way (I haven't tried it but maybe you can get to the crest this way?) To head to the track instead when you reach the clough immediately cross then go downstream through a gap in the fence and immediately follow a path heading East away from the clough, over grassland to eventually reach the track. In any case, takes a lot longer than 45 minutes Rockfax x-(
simoncov - 26/Aug/19
Great crag on a hot summer evening. In June the top of the main wall catches the sun from about 5pm then it covers the rest of the wall by late evening. The approach to the crag is one of the more beautiful routes if a little overgrown and adventurous.
samnbuk - 05/Jun/16
This crag catches the late evening sun in summer and Friends are very useful!
Tom, UKC News Editor - 21/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Playground
2 Nine Holes Slab
-
HVD 4
3 Short Slab
-
VS 5a 15
4 Centre-Forward
-
HVS 5a 13
5 C30, C60, C90, Go!
-
E1 5b 13
6 Goblin's Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
7 Gnome's Rib
-
HVS 5c  
8 Jigsaw Wall
-
VD  
9 Jigsaw Ridge
-
VS 4c 2
10 Jigsaw Chimney
-
HVD 2
11 Harry's Hiatus
-
VS 5a  
12 Delectable Rib
-
VS 5a  
13 Choss Crack
-
D  
14 Chossier Crack
-
VD  
15 Birthday Corner
-
VS 4c 1
16 S.A.S.
-
HVS 5b 1
17 Electra * HVS 5a  
18 Last Pixie Show * HVS 5a 1
  ---------------upper tier (main edge)---------------
  East Buttress
21 Orang Arete VS 4b 11
22 Grape Escape E3 6a * 1
23 Monkey Puzzle VS 4c * 50
24 East Rib HVS 5a *** 272
25 East Rib Direct E5 6a * 1
26 Icon HVS 5a * 4
27 Green Crack HS 4b 2
28 East Chimney
-
D 8
29 Atherton Brothers S 4a ** 206
30 Phoenix Climb VS 4c *** 426
31 Flaming Eliminate HVS 5a *  
32 Anniversary HVS 5a  
33 Via Principia S 4a *** 304
34 Subsidiary Chimney S 4a * 7
35 Ave VS 4c * 22
36 Powerplay E2 6a  
37 Little Red Pig HVS 5b * 1
38 Vanishing Groove S 4a 1
39 Birthday Chimney VD 3
40 Short Crack
-
VS 4c  
41 Satyr E4 5c * 2
42 Solstice HVS 5a  
43 Some Product E2 5c  
Climb name Grade
44 Bloodrush E6 6b *** 11
45 Saucius Digitalis E4 6a *** 13
46 Nagger's Delight HVS 5a * 9
47 Naaden E1 5b * 44
48 Yerth E2 5c * 25
49 Goodbye Enemy Airship
-
E3 6a *  
50 Cistern Groove VD 3
  Pisa Buttress
52 Y Crack VD 2
53 Pisa VS 5a * 13
54 Galileo E1 5c ** 148
55 Pisa Direct HVS 5a ** 56
56 Pisa Super Direct HVS 5a *** 363
57 Stable Cracks VS 4b ** 128
58 Plastic Saddle E1 5c 2
59 Typists' Chimney D 7
60 Unicorn Cracks HS 4b 7
61 Trungel Crack HVS 5a * 3
62 The Big Wall E3 6a ** 24
63 Cover Me In Chocolate and Feed Me to the Lesbians E6 6c ** 2
64 Big Bad Wall E4 6a  
65 Puzzle Weasel Wall E5 6c * 1
66 Holme Moss E1 5c * 13
67 Gremlin Groove VS 4c * 49
68 Gremlin Wall HVS 5a 4
69 Artifact VS 4c 15
70 Teufel Cracks D 2
71 Goblin's Crack
-
VS 5a  
72 Flake Groove VD 3
73 Flake Crack S 4a 2
74 Toadstool Crack VS 4c 1
75 Parallel Lines
-
E2 5b  
76 Pinnacle Crack VS 4c 1
  Pinnacle
78 Ordinary Route M * 26
79 Obverse Route VD 1
80 East Face S 4a 1
81 Pinnacle Face VS 4c * 18
  The Main Edge (right of Pinnacle)
83 Phantom E3 6a  
84 Nimrod S 4a 14
85 Free Fall E3 5c * 2
86 Free Fall Direct E4 6b 1
Climb name Grade
87 Stag Party VD 3
88 Ladies Day S 4a * 8
89 Ladies' Day Direct HVS 5a *  
90 Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds E5 6a * 1
91 Middleton Groove HS 4b * 3
92 Valhalla Crack VS 4c * 1
93 Crack and Chimney
-
VD  
94 Sampson E4 6b **  
95 Original Route S 4b * 19
96 West Ridge HVS 5a * 2
97 West Wall Route 1 S 4b * 18
98 West Wall Route 2
-
VD 7
99 Finale
-
S 4a 2
100 Encore
-
S 4a 2
101 Bits and Pieces VS 5a  
102 The Girdle Traverse VS 4c  
  ---------------Lower Tier---------------
104 Left Flake D 2
105 The Business Trip VD 2
106 Shandy VD 8
107 Lager Lout HVS 5a * 1
108 Pint of Beer VS 5a * 4
109 Omelette Crack D 4
110 Blocked Artery
-
S 1
111 The Egg Bowl S 4b 3
112 The Vice VD 13
113 Main Wall Climb VD * 34
114 Captain Zep HVS 5a * 5
115 Dirtier Groove D 14
116 The Rainbow D * 54
117 Dirty Groove D 18
118 Left Route S 4a 14
119 Central Route HVS 5a * 8
120 Right Route VD 21
  Scrambles
122 Shining Clough 2 ** 25
  Winter Climbs
124 Shining Clough Icefall II * 4
125 Shining Clough III ** 36
126 The Big Wall Gully II 6
  Unknown
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Reaper