UKC

Climbs 115
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 460m a.s.l
Faces N

Big exposure on East Rib! © Alex the Alex

Crag features

Probably the best crag on Bleaklow made of the finest moorland grit. A collection of buttress up to 20m high situated on the edge of high land. Exposed to the elements, cold, and green most of the year, it comes into its own on the hottest days of summer. Then a delight waits in store. Atherton Brothers (S), Phoenix Climb (VS 4c) or Pisa Superdirect (HVS 5a) are great, but more outstanding are East Rib (HVS 5a exposed!), Saucius Digitallis (E4 6b), well-protected, desperate finger jamming and the incredible Bloodrush (E6 6b) up the rib to the left of Saucius.

Approach notes

There have been problems using the approach described in the old BMC guidebook. The approach described in Western Grit is correct.
WESTERN GRIT APPROACH. Go through the 5 bar gate, turn left and follow the tarmaced track for about a mile until a sign points rightwards to Open Country. Follow the path up the hill round to the right of a pool and leading down into the wood and the stream. Go through a gate in the fence and cross the stream onto its eastern bank, the path then goes under several large oak trees and steeply up the bank toward the crag. The path is vague in places through the wood but is well defined through the heather up to the crag.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Great crag on a hot summer evening. In June the top of the main wall catches the sun from about 5pm then it covers the rest of the wall by late evening. The approach to the crag is one of the more beautiful routes if a little overgrown and adventurous.
samnbuk - 05/Jun/16
This crag catches the late evening sun in summer and Friends are very useful!
Tom, UKC News Editor - 21/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Playground
2 Nine Holes Slab
-
HVD 3
3 Short Slab
-
VS 5a 12
4 Centre-Forward
-
HVS 5a 10
5 C30, C60, C90, Go!
-
E1 5b 12
6 Goblin's Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
7 Gnome's Rib
-
HVS 5c  
8 Jigsaw Wall
-
VD  
9 Jigsaw Ridge
-
VS 4c 2
10 Jigsaw Chimney
-
HVD  
11 Harry's Hiatus
-
VS 5a  
12 Delectable Rib
-
VS 5a  
13 Choss Crack
-
D  
14 Chossier Crack
-
VD  
15 Birthday Corner
-
VS 4c 1
16 S.A.S.
-
HVS 5b 1
  ---------------upper tier (main edge)---------------
  East Buttress
19 Orang Arete VS 4b 10
20 Grape Escape E3 6a * 1
21 Monkey Puzzle VS 4c * 37
22 East Rib HVS 5a *** 218
23 East Rib Direct E5 6a * 1
24 Icon HVS 5a * 4
25 Green Crack HS 4b 2
26 East Chimney
-
D 7
27 Atherton Brothers S 4a ** 162
28 Phoenix Climb VS 4c *** 345
29 Flaming Eliminate HVS 5a *  
30 Anniversary HVS 5a  
31 Via Principia S 4a *** 221
32 Subsidiary Chimney S 4a * 6
33 Ave VS 4c * 18
34 Powerplay E2 6a  
35 Little Red Pig HVS 5b * 1
36 Vanishing Groove S 4a 1
37 Birthday Chimney VD 3
38 Short Crack
-
VS 4c  
39 Satyr E4 5c *  
40 Solstice HVS 5a  
41 Some Product E2 5c  
42 Bloodrush E6 6b *** 5
Climb name Grade
43 Saucius Digitalis E4 6a *** 7
44 Nagger's Delight HVS 5a * 6
45 Naaden E1 5b * 39
46 Yerth E2 5c * 22
47 Goodbye Enemy Airship
-
E3 6a *  
48 Cistern Groove VD 1
  Pisa Buttress
50 Y Crack VD 1
51 Pisa VS 5a * 11
52 Galileo E1 5c ** 125
53 Pisa Direct HVS 5a ** 44
54 Pisa Super Direct HVS 5a *** 280
55 Stable Cracks VS 4b ** 100
56 Plastic Saddle E1 5c 2
57 Typists' Chimney D 6
58 Unicorn Cracks HS 4b 7
59 Trungel Crack HVS 5a * 3
60 The Big Wall E3 6a ** 20
61 Cover Me In Chocolate and Feed Me to the Lesbians E6 6c ** 2
62 Big Bad Wall E4 6a  
63 Puzzle Weasel Wall E5 6c * 1
64 Holme Moss E1 5c * 11
65 Gremlin Groove VS 4c * 33
66 Gremlin Wall HVS 5a 4
67 Artifact VS 4c 13
68 Teufel Cracks D 2
69 Goblin's Crack
-
VS 5a  
70 Flake Groove VD 1
71 Flake Crack S 4a 2
72 Toadstool Crack VS 4c 1
73 Parallel Lines
-
E2 5b  
74 Pinnacle Crack VS 4c  
  Pinnacle
76 Ordinary Route M * 25
77 Obverse Route VD 1
78 East Face S 4a 1
79 Pinnacle Face VS 4c * 15
  The Main Edge (right of Pinnacle)
81 Phantom E3 6a  
82 Nimrod S 4a 7
83 Free Fall E3 5c * 2
84 Free Fall Direct E4 6b 1
Climb name Grade
85 Stag Party VD 1
86 Ladies Day S 4a * 4
87 Ladies' Day Direct HVS 5a *  
88 Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds E5 6a * 1
89 Middleton Groove HS 4b * 2
90 Valhalla Crack VS 4c *  
91 Crack and Chimney
-
VD  
92 Sampson E4 6b **  
93 Original Route S 4b * 13
94 West Ridge HVS 5a * 1
95 West Wall Route 1 S 4b * 14
96 West Wall Route 2
-
VD 5
97 Finale
-
S 4a 2
98 Encore
-
S 4a 2
99 Bits and Pieces VS 5a  
100 The Girdle Traverse VS 4c  
  ---------------Lower Tier---------------
102 Left Flake D 2
103 The Business Trip VD 2
104 Shandy VD 8
105 Lager Lout HVS 5a * 1
106 Pint of Beer VS 5a * 4
107 Omelette Crack D 4
108 Blocked Artery
-
S  
109 The Egg Bowl S 4b 2
110 The Vice VD 12
111 Main Wall Climb VD * 25
112 Captain Zep HVS 5a * 5
113 Dirtier Groove D 13
114 The Rainbow D * 42
115 Dirty Groove D 15
116 Left Route S 4a 14
117 Central Route HVS 5a * 8
118 Right Route VD 19
  Scrambles
120 Shining Clough 2 ** 14
  Winter Climbs
122 Shining Clough Icefall II * 3
123 Shining Clough III ** 29
124 The Big Wall Gully II 6
  Unknown

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