Altitude 460m a.s.l
Big exposure on East Rib! © Alex the Alex
Probably the best crag on Bleaklow made of the finest moorland grit. A collection of buttress up to 20m high situated on the edge of high land. Exposed to the elements, cold, and green most of the year, it comes into its own on the hottest days of summer. Then a delight waits in store. Atherton Brothers (S), Phoenix Climb (VS 4c) or Pisa Superdirect (HVS 5a) are great, but more outstanding are East Rib (HVS 5a exposed!), Saucius Digitallis (E4 6b), well-protected, desperate finger jamming and the incredible Bloodrush (E6 6b) up the rib to the left of Saucius.
There have been problems using the approach described in the old BMC guidebook. The approach described in Western Grit is correct.
WESTERN GRIT APPROACH. Go through the 5 bar gate, turn left and follow the tarmaced track for about a mile until a sign points rightwards to Open Country. Follow the path up the hill round to the right of a pool and leading down into the wood and the stream. Go through a gate in the fence and cross the stream onto its eastern bank, the path then goes under several large oak trees and steeply up the bank toward the crag. The path is vague in places through the wood but is well defined through the heather up to the crag.
|Bushwhacking approach through fern and moorland for 40 minutes didn't float my boat. Next time I will head East over grassland to the track that almost reaches the crag or use the eastern parking. Approach notes need more detail... from the dam 1km up track to gravel area on right before the house in the trees. Follow the fence posts (either side) right perpendicular to the track for about 400m to a stand of trees. Pass the trees on the right entering another field, immediately bear left through bracken to cross a brook and follow a path right. After 100m cross a fence at an open country sign and follow a hunters path right, then left and down to the clough. The hunters path goes up the stream bed for at least 500m, so maybe best to stay in the stream bed until high in the moor if approaching this way (I haven't tried it but maybe you can get to the crest this way?) To head to the track instead when you reach the clough immediately cross then go downstream through a gap in the fence and immediately follow a path heading East away from the clough, over grassland to eventually reach the track. In any case, takes a lot longer than 45 minutes Rockfax x-(|
simoncov - 26/Aug/19
|Great crag on a hot summer evening. In June the top of the main wall catches the sun from about 5pm then it covers the rest of the wall by late evening. The approach to the crag is one of the more beautiful routes if a little overgrown and adventurous.|
samnbuk - 05/Jun/16
|This crag catches the late evening sun in summer and Friends are very useful!|
Tom, UKC News Editor - 21/Jun/02
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