Altitude 460m a.s.l
Big exposure on East Rib! © Alex the Alex
Probably the best crag on Bleaklow made of the finest moorland grit. A collection of buttress up to 20m high situated on the edge of high land. Exposed to the elements, cold, and green most of the year, it comes into its own on the hottest days of summer. Then a delight waits in store. Atherton Brothers (S), Phoenix Climb (VS 4c) or Pisa Superdirect (HVS 5a) are great, but more outstanding are East Rib (HVS 5a exposed!), Saucius Digitallis (E4 6b), well-protected, desperate finger jamming and the incredible Bloodrush (E6 6b) up the rib to the left of Saucius.
There have been problems using the approach described in the old BMC guidebook. The approach described in Western Grit is correct.
WESTERN GRIT APPROACH. Go through the 5 bar gate, turn left and follow the tarmaced track for about a mile until a sign points rightwards to Open Country. Follow the path up the hill round to the right of a pool and leading down into the wood and the stream. Go through a gate in the fence and cross the stream onto its eastern bank, the path then goes under several large oak trees and steeply up the bank toward the crag. The path is vague in places through the wood but is well defined through the heather up to the crag.
|Great crag on a hot summer evening. In June the top of the main wall catches the sun from about 5pm then it covers the rest of the wall by late evening. The approach to the crag is one of the more beautiful routes if a little overgrown and adventurous.|
samnbuk - 05/Jun/16
|This crag catches the late evening sun in summer and Friends are very useful!|
Tom, UKC News Editor - 21/Jun/02