Contemplating the crux moves of 'Cos Happiness is the Roof © The Ivanator
North Buttress: 20m routes from HVS to E3 6a, excellent rock, best on summer evenings with low tide. Weed is an worthwhile E1.
St David's Head Zawn: Found just North of the last promontory of the headland.
South Buttress: Sunny aspect, scramble approach (see access notes) short (15m) climbing, includes routes ideal for first time leaders. Gear is good and belay setup is plentiful. Base non tidal in calm seas.
Stepped Roof Buttress (South Face Upper Tier): Just above and east of the South Face is a small buttress (10m) with a flat grassy base. Identifiable by a mid height stepped roof and a distinctive central full height serrated crack. Apparently used by some outdoor groups, but routes not recorded. The obvious central line goes at around VS, harder and easier options exist either side.
Some bouldering exists between north and south crags.
Usually no nesting restrictions, but worth checking BMC RAD in case of variable restrictions in the area. Walk to end of headland, and scramble down to the narrow constriction near the very end. The south face is down the ramp to the left. Two obvious gullies intersect the face, the second would appear to be the drainage gully of the guide. The 'main face' is past this second steeper gully, a quartz band runs along its base.
The north buttress is reached along wave cut platform to right/north, then descending a ramp seawards. Crag is on the corner before the small cove containing Craig y Crisial.
Both crags are non-tidal apart from the extreme ends of the walls.
|Where can I get a guide for this crag, I have Rockfax Pembroke but it is missing!|
Beans - 16/Mar/11
|Climbed there yesterday escaping cool wind from NW and a seeping Mur Cheninen.Excellent little crag ,the HVS is "way out" overhanging on big holds.|
Bob Bennett - 05/Aug/03
|2||Balancing Act *||HVS 5a||3|
|3||Flower Pot Man||HVS 5a||4|
|4||Weed||E1 5b *||2|
|5||Gripping Yarns||E3 6a|
|6||Reachy Roof Route||E3 6a *|
|7||The Embevmetron||E1 5b||4|
|8||Silver Sunset||E2 5c *||2|
|St David's Head Zawn|
|E2 5c *|
|11||Zawn Off||E2 5c **||3|
|12||Pikey Joe's Tale of Woe||
|14||Oyon's boxing gully||M||7|
|15||Double Take||S 4a||31|
|17||Overhanging Buttress||HVS 5a *||44|
|18||Central Crack||S 4a||40|
|19||Step Up||S 4a *||46|
|20||Pull Up||VS 4c||38|
|22||Sit Start Rampage||HS 4b||1|
|23||The Rake||D *||51|
|24||Yo-Yo||E2 5b *||4|
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