Climbs 31
Rocktype Gabbro

Faces all

Contemplating the crux moves of 'Cos Happiness is the Roof © The Ivanator

Crag features

North Buttress: 20m routes from HVS to E3 6a, excellent rock, best on summer evenings with low tide. Weed is an worthwhile E1.
St David's Head Zawn: Found just North of the last promontory of the headland.
South Buttress: Sunny aspect, scramble approach (see access notes) short (15m) climbing, includes routes ideal for first time leaders. Gear is good and belay setup is plentiful. Base non tidal in calm seas.
Stepped Roof Buttress (South Face Upper Tier): Just above and east of the South Face is a small buttress (10m) with a flat grassy base. Identifiable by a mid height stepped roof and a distinctive central full height serrated crack. Apparently used by some outdoor groups, but routes not recorded. The obvious central line goes at around VS, harder and easier options exist either side.
Some bouldering exists between north and south crags.

Approach notes

Usually no nesting restrictions, but worth checking BMC RAD in case of variable restrictions in the area. Walk to end of headland, and scramble down to the narrow constriction near the very end. The south face is down the ramp to the left. Two obvious gullies intersect the face, the second would appear to be the drainage gully of the guide. The 'main face' is past this second steeper gully, a quartz band runs along its base.

The north buttress is reached along wave cut platform to right/north, then descending a ramp seawards. Crag is on the corner before the small cove containing Craig y Crisial.
Both crags are non-tidal apart from the extreme ends of the walls.

Where can I get a guide for this crag, I have Rockfax Pembroke but it is missing!
Beans - 16/Mar/11
Climbed there yesterday escaping cool wind from NW and a seeping Mur Cheninen.Excellent little crag ,the HVS is "way out" overhanging on big holds.
Bob Bennett - 05/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Buttress
2 Balancing Act * HVS 5a 3
3 Flower Pot Man HVS 5a 4
4 Weed E1 5b * 2
5 Gripping Yarns E3 6a  
6 Reachy Roof Route E3 6a *  
7 The Embevmetron E1 5b 4
8 Silver Sunset E2 5c * 2
  St David's Head Zawn
10 Terry's Route
E2 5c *  
11 Zawn Off E2 5c ** 3
12 Pikey Joe's Tale of Woe
E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
  South Buttress
14 Oyon's boxing gully M 7
15 Double Take S 4a 31
16 Rakish crack VD 58
17 Overhanging Buttress HVS 5a * 44
18 Central Crack S 4a 40
19 Step Up S 4a * 46
20 Pull Up VS 4c 38
21 Crack-Up VD 28
22 Sit Start Rampage HS 4b 1
23 The Rake D * 51
24 Yo-Yo E2 5b * 4
Climb name Grade
25 Funnybone E2 5b * 2
26 Staircase D * 20
27 Staircase Variant VD 3
  Stepped Roof Buttress (Upper Tier)
29 'Cos Happiness is the Roof HS 4c * 5
31 Black Arete
32 Black Wall
33 North Bishop
34 Carreg Rhoson
35 Daufraich Wall
36 South Bishop
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Ivanator