Climbs 30
Rocktype Gabbro

Faces all

Contemplating the crux moves of 'Cos Happiness is the Roof © The Ivanator

Crag features

North Buttress: 20m routes from HVS to E3 6a, excellent rock, best on summer evenings with low tide. Weed is an worthwhile E1.

St David's Head Zawn: Found just North of the last promontory of the headland.

South Buttress: Sunny aspect, scramble approach (see access notes) short (15m) climbing, includes routes ideal for first time leaders. Gear is good and belay setup is plentiful. Base non tidal in calm seas.

Stepped Roof Buttress (South Face Upper Tier): Just above and east of the South Face is a small buttress (10m) with a flat grassy base. Identifiable by a mid height stepped roof and a distinctive central full height serrated crack. Apparently used by some outdoor groups, but routes not recorded. The obvious central line goes at around VS, harder and easier options exist either side.

Some bouldering exists between north and south crags.

Approach notes

Usually no nesting restrictions, but worth checking BMC RAD in case of variable restrictions in the area. Walk to end of headland, and scramble down to the narrow constriction near the very end. The south face is down the ramp to the left. Two obvious gullies intersect the face, the second would appear to be the drainage gully of the guide. The 'main face' is past this second steeper gully, a quartz band runs along its base.

The north buttress is reached along wave cut platform to right/north, then descending a ramp seawards. Crag is on the corner before the small cove containing Craig y Crisial.

Both crags are non-tidal apart from the extreme ends of the walls.

Where can I get a guide for this crag, I have Rockfax Pembroke but it is missing!
Beans - 16/Mar/11
Climbed there yesterday escaping cool wind from NW and a seeping Mur Cheninen.Excellent little crag ,the HVS is "way out" overhanging on big holds.
Bob Bennett - 05/Aug/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Buttress 
2Balancing Act *HVS 5a 3
3Flower Pot ManHVS 5a 4
4WeedE1 5b *2
5Gripping YarnsE3 6a  
6Reachy Roof RouteE3 6a * 
7The EmbevmetronE1 5b 4
8Silver SunsetE2 5c *2
 St David's Head Zawn 
10Terry's Route
E2 5c * 
11Zawn OffE2 5c **2
12Pikey Joe's Tale of Woe
E2 5b  
 South Buttress 
14Oyon's boxing gullyM 7
15Double TakeS 4a 29
16Rakish crackVD 52
17Overhanging ButtressHVS 5a *43
18Central CrackS 4a 36
19Step UpS 4a *43
20Pull UpVS 4c 35
21Crack-UpVD 23
22The RakeD *45
23Yo-YoE2 5b *4
24FunnyboneE2 5b *2
25StaircaseD *18
26Staircase VariantVD 3
 Stepped Roof Buttress (Upper Tier) 
28'Cos Happiness is the RoofHS 4c *2
30Black Arete
31Black Wall
32North Bishop
33Carreg Rhoson
34Daufraich Wall
35South Bishop
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer The Ivanator